By Raymond Angus
Seniors pets are companions! Our friends! Whether they're
pet dogs or pet cats or any of a thousand other pet animals
we bring into our homes, they share our lives with us as
virtual human beings.
They faithfully stand beside us no matter what the world
throws at us. They reward us with their trust and
affection.
We give them personal names. We dub them Fido, Butch,
Fluffy, Mitzi or any of a myriad other appellations. The
amazing fact is that we create entire personalities around
the names we award them with.
In our minds they are people just like us!
Butch may in fact be just a tiny Yorkshire Terrier dog, but
he's a tough little dude who bullies and bluffs his way
through life. Mitzi is a regal, white Persian cat, who even
though she considers herself a queen, she grants you the
privilege of caring for all of her personal needs.
They get hair all over the furniture and on your best suit
or dress. You find fur balls under the dining room table
just as dinner guests ring the front door bell. At ten
o:clock on a rainy Friday night, Fido scratches at the door
to announce he wants, and needs, to go outside.
Why do we share our lives with pets and put up with their
many and sometimes irritating habits?
The answer is simple...because we need them in our personal
worlds to make life bearable.
Are you a senior parent with a home now devoid of young
voices and excitement? Have your children moved on to their
own worlds and don't barge back into yours as much as you
would like?
Do you crawl out of bed each morning and wonder how you will
fill the hours until the end of the new day? Do you look
forward to the air conditioning unit turning on and off to
break the endless silence of an empty house?
Scientific research over the years has revealed some
surprising revelations about the very real partnership that
exists between humans and their live in pets. Medical
science has shown that a true symbiotic relationship
develops in an owner and pet equation.
The pet and the owner share a mutual need for each other and
both profit from the arrangement.
A person's physical and mental health show marked
improvement if a pet lives in the household. Loneliness
dissolves and pet owners display increasing vigor and
contentment with the companionship of a pet. Dogs and cats
were the pets most often involved in the medical surveys.
The research revealed that people felt needed by the pet and
were forced to develop a schedule for providing for the
animals' welfare. This mutual reliance helped both men and
women pet owners to become more enthused for their own
personal welfare. In the final analysis, the humans felt
more needed and valuable as individuals.
Because of the contentment factor enjoyed by the pet owners,
significant physical improvements were often displayed.
The very next time you look at Sheba or Butch, lean over and
give them an added pat on the head, or a special treat for
dinner.
Why? Just for being there!
Raymond Angus is a widely read author of articles and books.
He writes about seniors and their world.
To read more of his work turn to: http://www.theseniorslife.com
Saturday, February 23, 2008
Thursday, February 21, 2008
Cooking for Sick Pets
By Julee Roth
Nothing is more frustrating than a pet with diarrhea or constant vomiting - I know, I have experienced these messy problems for one long month. I adopted two kittens from a large chain pet store. No more than 15 minutes into our journey home, adorable little Lulu had diarrhea. I thought it was related to the car ride, but after a few days of scooping wet, runny poop from both kittens I knew this was a health issue.
I took the kittens to the vet, and even though they may have been given shots, my vet suggested they were too young and not properly immunized. I told him about their diarrhea - they had very healthy appetites and were drinking water. My vet gave them their shots, prescribed medication and home we went.
The medication was difficult to give and it didn't seem to help. I put canned pumpkin in their food. It didn't really help. I added psyllium. It didn't help. I went online and began some research. And I found Vitality Sciences - a company founded in 1991 to help people with GI problems.
I read their research, I read their testimonials then I called and ordered the feline diarrhea vomiting combo. Because I didn't have a specific cause of the problem, I needed to try a few product combinations. Within the week Pearl had normal stools. Lulu, the other kitten, took a bit longer to treat but is now diarrhea free. So for treatment resistant diarrhea or vomiting, these six products can be combined to fight the infection, cure the disease and get your pet back into health. See the specific products at www.ChoicePetProducts.com.
So what did I do for their food? I cooked for them, of course! I found that they like the Shelton brand of frozen minced turkey the best. I add enough distilled water (buy it at the grocery - especially if your pet may have Giardia) to completely cover the thawed turkey. I cook the turkey until the juices run clear. This is the experimental part and it works for most dogs and cats.
For diarrhea, I started with 1 Tablespoon of canned organic pumpkin to one cup of cooked turkey. For dogs, you may want to add 1/2 cup cooked long grain rice. I fed 1 tablespoon of this food to my kittens and about 2 tablespoons to my adult male cat three times a day. (My adult male loves plain turkey and hated the pumpkin after a while.) I fed a small amount of dry food and clean, distilled water is out all day. Once the turkey is thawed (properly, please, no need to give food poisoning on top of other GI problems) the cooking time is about 10-12 minutes. The cooling time is another 10-20 minutes and then I promptly refrigerate any unused portion. I then took some of the cooked turkey and mixed in the Comfort product - either canine or feline, depending upon species - and this added a different kind of fiber. I alternated this mix with the pumpkin for the kittens - it worked great for Pearl.
I, along with my vet, thought Lulu had Giardia. I found that giving the herbal supplement and then the skullcap supplement stopped the diarrhea within two days, along with the food choices from above.
The comfort products also work exceptionally well for vomiting. I suggest that if your kitty has hairballs, add a little pumpkin to their food. If you use the ground turkey, be sure to have a mix of white and dark meat, there's a bit more fat to help hairballs.
I have also heard great results with this diet for animals on chemotherapy and radiation. Again, use distilled water to help clear toxins.
If you cook once week, like me, take 20-30 minutes out of your day and cook for your pet. I put enough food for four days in a plastic container. I freeze the remainder of the cooked turkey (I add the other ingredients once it is unfrozen) in small containers and take them out as I need them.
Cooking for your pet really is easy and it makes treating difficult problems so much easier!
Julee Roth has been a life-long animal lover and pet industry veteran with over 12 years experience helping people and their pets. Hundreds of thousands of puppies, kittens, cats and dogs have benefited from her advice and well chosen pet products. To ask her for more pet advice, visit her web site, http://www.ChoicePetProducts.com
Nothing is more frustrating than a pet with diarrhea or constant vomiting - I know, I have experienced these messy problems for one long month. I adopted two kittens from a large chain pet store. No more than 15 minutes into our journey home, adorable little Lulu had diarrhea. I thought it was related to the car ride, but after a few days of scooping wet, runny poop from both kittens I knew this was a health issue.
I took the kittens to the vet, and even though they may have been given shots, my vet suggested they were too young and not properly immunized. I told him about their diarrhea - they had very healthy appetites and were drinking water. My vet gave them their shots, prescribed medication and home we went.
The medication was difficult to give and it didn't seem to help. I put canned pumpkin in their food. It didn't really help. I added psyllium. It didn't help. I went online and began some research. And I found Vitality Sciences - a company founded in 1991 to help people with GI problems.
I read their research, I read their testimonials then I called and ordered the feline diarrhea vomiting combo. Because I didn't have a specific cause of the problem, I needed to try a few product combinations. Within the week Pearl had normal stools. Lulu, the other kitten, took a bit longer to treat but is now diarrhea free. So for treatment resistant diarrhea or vomiting, these six products can be combined to fight the infection, cure the disease and get your pet back into health. See the specific products at www.ChoicePetProducts.com.
So what did I do for their food? I cooked for them, of course! I found that they like the Shelton brand of frozen minced turkey the best. I add enough distilled water (buy it at the grocery - especially if your pet may have Giardia) to completely cover the thawed turkey. I cook the turkey until the juices run clear. This is the experimental part and it works for most dogs and cats.
For diarrhea, I started with 1 Tablespoon of canned organic pumpkin to one cup of cooked turkey. For dogs, you may want to add 1/2 cup cooked long grain rice. I fed 1 tablespoon of this food to my kittens and about 2 tablespoons to my adult male cat three times a day. (My adult male loves plain turkey and hated the pumpkin after a while.) I fed a small amount of dry food and clean, distilled water is out all day. Once the turkey is thawed (properly, please, no need to give food poisoning on top of other GI problems) the cooking time is about 10-12 minutes. The cooling time is another 10-20 minutes and then I promptly refrigerate any unused portion. I then took some of the cooked turkey and mixed in the Comfort product - either canine or feline, depending upon species - and this added a different kind of fiber. I alternated this mix with the pumpkin for the kittens - it worked great for Pearl.
I, along with my vet, thought Lulu had Giardia. I found that giving the herbal supplement and then the skullcap supplement stopped the diarrhea within two days, along with the food choices from above.
The comfort products also work exceptionally well for vomiting. I suggest that if your kitty has hairballs, add a little pumpkin to their food. If you use the ground turkey, be sure to have a mix of white and dark meat, there's a bit more fat to help hairballs.
I have also heard great results with this diet for animals on chemotherapy and radiation. Again, use distilled water to help clear toxins.
If you cook once week, like me, take 20-30 minutes out of your day and cook for your pet. I put enough food for four days in a plastic container. I freeze the remainder of the cooked turkey (I add the other ingredients once it is unfrozen) in small containers and take them out as I need them.
Cooking for your pet really is easy and it makes treating difficult problems so much easier!
Julee Roth has been a life-long animal lover and pet industry veteran with over 12 years experience helping people and their pets. Hundreds of thousands of puppies, kittens, cats and dogs have benefited from her advice and well chosen pet products. To ask her for more pet advice, visit her web site, http://www.ChoicePetProducts.com
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
Family Pets - 7 Tips for Choosing an Age-Appropriate Family Pet
By Hilary Basile
Even though your kids want a pet and promise to take care of it, it doesn't necessarily mean they are mature enough to handle the responsibilities of pet ownership. Pets offer companionship and teach children important life lessons about friendship and responsibility, however, some pets are better than others for certain ages and lifestyles. Following are 7 tips for choosing an age-appropriate pet for your family:
Choose a social pet Consider choosing an animal that has already been socialized and knows how to behave around children, such as an older cat or a dog with a history of getting along well with young children. Families with small children should be wary of bringing home a new puppy or kitten since baby animals require extra care and are more prone to scratching and playful biting.
Learn about breeds. Using dogs as an example, it's important to know that some breeds, such as Golden Retrievers and Labrador Retrievers, are traditionally gentle and friendly and, thus, offer a great choice for families with small children. Find information on different breeds online or at the library. Ask veterinarians or friends with similar pets about their experiences. Determine if you can accommodate the type of pet based on their exercise, space and attention requirements.
Practice first. If you have never owned a dog before, be sure to do a trial run with a relative or a friend's dog before committing to the real deal. This way, you can make sure your kids are capable of tackling the responsibilities of caring for a pet.
Teach behavior. Show your kids how to act appropriately around animals, such as how to handle their new pet without squeezing, dropping, or disturbing the animal. Remind them to always wash their hands after handling any animal. Never leave a small child alone with a dog or cat until you know the pet is trained to stay calm. Remind children to ask the owner before approaching animals they don't know.
Consider your schedule. Think about how much space you have inside and outside your home to accommodate a pet, how often you are home, and if you have time to devote to feeding, walking and cleaning up after a pet. This will help you determine if you want a pet that needs a lot of attention, or if you want a pet that requires minimal interaction. Also consider any allergies of family members before bringing a pet home.
Be prepared. Discuss the pet's needs and type of care required and try to have all the equipment ready in your home before the new pet arrives.
Clean up potential hazards. When bringing a pet into your home, you will need to pet-proof it as you have childproofed your home, such as removing plants that are poisonous if ingested and securing electrical cords so the pet won't chew on them.
Following are age-appropriate pet recommendations:
Ages 3 to 5: Consider a guinea pig for preschoolers. Guinea pigs are gentle, like to be held and rarely bite.
Ages 6 to 10: Consider "shelf pets" for elementary-age kids, such as fish, mice, hamsters and gerbils.
Ages 10 to 13: Consider rabbits, dogs and cats for tweens.
Ages 14 and up: Consider a bird or fish for teenagers. These low maintenance options are great for older kids who are busy with school and extracurricular activities.
Following are age-appropriate pet chores:
Ages 3 to 6: Play with the pet while supervised, help pick up pet toys and wipe up spills caused by the pet.
Ages 7 to 10: Feed and brush the pet. If the pet is a dog, this age group can help walk the dog.
Ages 10 and up: Clean a cage, walk a dog, empty a litter box, bathe a pet and help give medications.
Hilary Basile is a writer for MyGuidesUSA.com at http://www.myguidesusa.com, you will find valuable tips and resources for handling life's major events. Whether you're planning a wedding, buying your first home, anxiously awaiting the birth of a child, contending with a divorce, searching for a new job, or planning for your retirement, you'll find answers to your questions at MyGuidesUSA.com
Find parenting tips and resources at http://becomingaparent.myguidesusa.com
Even though your kids want a pet and promise to take care of it, it doesn't necessarily mean they are mature enough to handle the responsibilities of pet ownership. Pets offer companionship and teach children important life lessons about friendship and responsibility, however, some pets are better than others for certain ages and lifestyles. Following are 7 tips for choosing an age-appropriate pet for your family:
Choose a social pet Consider choosing an animal that has already been socialized and knows how to behave around children, such as an older cat or a dog with a history of getting along well with young children. Families with small children should be wary of bringing home a new puppy or kitten since baby animals require extra care and are more prone to scratching and playful biting.
Learn about breeds. Using dogs as an example, it's important to know that some breeds, such as Golden Retrievers and Labrador Retrievers, are traditionally gentle and friendly and, thus, offer a great choice for families with small children. Find information on different breeds online or at the library. Ask veterinarians or friends with similar pets about their experiences. Determine if you can accommodate the type of pet based on their exercise, space and attention requirements.
Practice first. If you have never owned a dog before, be sure to do a trial run with a relative or a friend's dog before committing to the real deal. This way, you can make sure your kids are capable of tackling the responsibilities of caring for a pet.
Teach behavior. Show your kids how to act appropriately around animals, such as how to handle their new pet without squeezing, dropping, or disturbing the animal. Remind them to always wash their hands after handling any animal. Never leave a small child alone with a dog or cat until you know the pet is trained to stay calm. Remind children to ask the owner before approaching animals they don't know.
Consider your schedule. Think about how much space you have inside and outside your home to accommodate a pet, how often you are home, and if you have time to devote to feeding, walking and cleaning up after a pet. This will help you determine if you want a pet that needs a lot of attention, or if you want a pet that requires minimal interaction. Also consider any allergies of family members before bringing a pet home.
Be prepared. Discuss the pet's needs and type of care required and try to have all the equipment ready in your home before the new pet arrives.
Clean up potential hazards. When bringing a pet into your home, you will need to pet-proof it as you have childproofed your home, such as removing plants that are poisonous if ingested and securing electrical cords so the pet won't chew on them.
Following are age-appropriate pet recommendations:
Ages 3 to 5: Consider a guinea pig for preschoolers. Guinea pigs are gentle, like to be held and rarely bite.
Ages 6 to 10: Consider "shelf pets" for elementary-age kids, such as fish, mice, hamsters and gerbils.
Ages 10 to 13: Consider rabbits, dogs and cats for tweens.
Ages 14 and up: Consider a bird or fish for teenagers. These low maintenance options are great for older kids who are busy with school and extracurricular activities.
Following are age-appropriate pet chores:
Ages 3 to 6: Play with the pet while supervised, help pick up pet toys and wipe up spills caused by the pet.
Ages 7 to 10: Feed and brush the pet. If the pet is a dog, this age group can help walk the dog.
Ages 10 and up: Clean a cage, walk a dog, empty a litter box, bathe a pet and help give medications.
Hilary Basile is a writer for MyGuidesUSA.com at http://www.myguidesusa.com, you will find valuable tips and resources for handling life's major events. Whether you're planning a wedding, buying your first home, anxiously awaiting the birth of a child, contending with a divorce, searching for a new job, or planning for your retirement, you'll find answers to your questions at MyGuidesUSA.com
Find parenting tips and resources at http://becomingaparent.myguidesusa.com
Sunday, February 17, 2008
Holistic and Natural Pet Care - What Does It Really Mean?
By Eleanor Van Natta
Aristotle was talking about holism when he said that "the whole is more than the sum of its parts". Holistic and natural pet care means that you take into account the physical, mental, and emotional well being and health when treating or preventing disease in your pets. What this looks like in practice is that you do not just try to fix individual symptoms when treating disease but instead take into account any number of factors of physical, mental, and emotional nature; its like looking at the individual trees without losing sight of the forest. For example, a horse with ulcers doesn't just need a "band-aid" for the ulcers themselves but perhaps needs to be fed more often (their gut constantly secrets acid because they were designed to forage most of the day) and/or needs to have its environment, stress load, show schedule, and training re-evaluated. The principle of holism also says, for example, that you cannot view - or treat - a horse's hooves as being separate from its body. And your dog doesn't just have skin problems - he may have food allergies, be under a lot of stress, etc.
The short and simple definition of holistic comes from Websters:
holistic - 1 : of or relating to holism
2 : relating to or concerned with wholes or with complete systems rather than with the analysis of, treatment of, or dissection into parts
Because of my experiences over the years with my horse and various other pets, I have come to the conclusion that when it comes to health, you really need to know at least a little bit about a lot of things - as well as have a team assembled of experts in their respective fields. For example, the farrier may point out something that the veterinarian missed (and vice versa), and some people specialize in certain areas that could be helpful to you and your horse. I have learned that relying exclusively on your veterinarian or anyone else for a certain problem is all too often a very narrow view and disappointing path to take. Chances are, there is something or someone that you have not tried yet in your quest to solve a health challenge. Not every creature responds to the same medicine or the same approach, and sometimes you just need to try a few different things or combinations of things. And just because it is holistic or natural or alternative doesn't mean that it will necessarily be the answer either. Once I had an acupuncture treatment done on my horse, and she hated it and even had to be twitched - which we both really disliked (and I regret that I did not stand up for my horse and not allow the twitch).
I cannot stress enough the importance of assembling a good team of knowledgeable, caring individuals to help you and your equine friends. To find a holistic veterinarian, check out the American Holistic Veterinarian Association AHVMA. The AHVMA site is a great resource for an overview on holistic medicine. Even if you do not have a holistic veterinarian located near you, many of them will do telephone consults as well as coordinate care with your local veterinarian.
Additionally, you should read - pet care books by well respected holistic veterinarians and other practitioners are a good start. Arm yourself with information, and learn all you can about what your horse, dog, cat, or other pet needs and wants both physically and emotionally. Know what that animal would do, be, eat, and have in the wild state - in nature. There are some good documentaries and videos on this topic as well as informative books. Our pets have adapted to domesticated life but usually not without some kind of ill-effects. If you know the wild dog, and you know your dog (personality, sensitivities, etc), then it can be easier to figure out what is out of balance and try to bring it back into balance or close to it. You probably cannot give your horse a herd of horses to roam with, or your dog a large pack, but there are a lot of other things that you can do.
Finally, it is vital when coordinating care for your pet that you don't forget to give a voice to your gut instincts and that you are not intimidated by those with higher degrees or more experience; no one has the same degree of bond with your animal as you do. Not being intimidated is very often easier said than done, depending upon your personality, but you may save yourself - and your pet- a lot of heartache and disease if you do.
Eleanor D Van Natta http://www.sagebynature.com
a natural horse through nature's wisdom http://sagebynature.blogspot.com/
Journey With Cody
Aristotle was talking about holism when he said that "the whole is more than the sum of its parts". Holistic and natural pet care means that you take into account the physical, mental, and emotional well being and health when treating or preventing disease in your pets. What this looks like in practice is that you do not just try to fix individual symptoms when treating disease but instead take into account any number of factors of physical, mental, and emotional nature; its like looking at the individual trees without losing sight of the forest. For example, a horse with ulcers doesn't just need a "band-aid" for the ulcers themselves but perhaps needs to be fed more often (their gut constantly secrets acid because they were designed to forage most of the day) and/or needs to have its environment, stress load, show schedule, and training re-evaluated. The principle of holism also says, for example, that you cannot view - or treat - a horse's hooves as being separate from its body. And your dog doesn't just have skin problems - he may have food allergies, be under a lot of stress, etc.
The short and simple definition of holistic comes from Websters:
holistic - 1 : of or relating to holism
2 : relating to or concerned with wholes or with complete systems rather than with the analysis of, treatment of, or dissection into parts
Because of my experiences over the years with my horse and various other pets, I have come to the conclusion that when it comes to health, you really need to know at least a little bit about a lot of things - as well as have a team assembled of experts in their respective fields. For example, the farrier may point out something that the veterinarian missed (and vice versa), and some people specialize in certain areas that could be helpful to you and your horse. I have learned that relying exclusively on your veterinarian or anyone else for a certain problem is all too often a very narrow view and disappointing path to take. Chances are, there is something or someone that you have not tried yet in your quest to solve a health challenge. Not every creature responds to the same medicine or the same approach, and sometimes you just need to try a few different things or combinations of things. And just because it is holistic or natural or alternative doesn't mean that it will necessarily be the answer either. Once I had an acupuncture treatment done on my horse, and she hated it and even had to be twitched - which we both really disliked (and I regret that I did not stand up for my horse and not allow the twitch).
I cannot stress enough the importance of assembling a good team of knowledgeable, caring individuals to help you and your equine friends. To find a holistic veterinarian, check out the American Holistic Veterinarian Association AHVMA. The AHVMA site is a great resource for an overview on holistic medicine. Even if you do not have a holistic veterinarian located near you, many of them will do telephone consults as well as coordinate care with your local veterinarian.
Additionally, you should read - pet care books by well respected holistic veterinarians and other practitioners are a good start. Arm yourself with information, and learn all you can about what your horse, dog, cat, or other pet needs and wants both physically and emotionally. Know what that animal would do, be, eat, and have in the wild state - in nature. There are some good documentaries and videos on this topic as well as informative books. Our pets have adapted to domesticated life but usually not without some kind of ill-effects. If you know the wild dog, and you know your dog (personality, sensitivities, etc), then it can be easier to figure out what is out of balance and try to bring it back into balance or close to it. You probably cannot give your horse a herd of horses to roam with, or your dog a large pack, but there are a lot of other things that you can do.
Finally, it is vital when coordinating care for your pet that you don't forget to give a voice to your gut instincts and that you are not intimidated by those with higher degrees or more experience; no one has the same degree of bond with your animal as you do. Not being intimidated is very often easier said than done, depending upon your personality, but you may save yourself - and your pet- a lot of heartache and disease if you do.
Eleanor D Van Natta http://www.sagebynature.com
a natural horse through nature's wisdom http://sagebynature.blogspot.com/
Journey With Cody
Friday, February 15, 2008
Pet Vitamins - Three Important Questions
By Gary Le Mon
A dozen generations ago when pet vitamins were unheard of, this good earth was a veritable victory garden. The air was clean, water pure, soil rich with nutrients.
Today the world is different.
Corporate farms coax crops from barren soil using chemicals and pesticides. Food processing conglomerates replace any remaining nourishment with salt, sugar, artificial flavors and preservatives. Humans and animals subsist on a diet of lifeless inert matter in brightly adorned packaging that we call food only because we're brainwashed into eating it... and feeding it to our pets.
But you are to be congratulated. Here you are on the Internet searching for answers. Odds are, if your dog or cat had known how to search the Internet for pet vitamins and supplements, he or she would have done so long ago.
Nobody questions that humans, animals, fish, birds, plants - all living things - need proper nutrition to grow and stay healthy. The big question is which product to put your hard-earned money on. And whose claims to believe.
Here are the three most important questions to ask when searching for natural pet vitamins. We thought you should know the inside scoop because the decisions you make for your best friends are too important for guesswork.
First, how long have the people behind the pet vitamin formula been around?
Many newcomers to the pet supplement arena have not stood the test of time. Many hope to sell their products to inexperienced dog and cat owners who don't know better. A track record of 5 to 10 years is good; 20 or more even better. For over 34 years the makers of my favorite brand have developed products that provide the best form, balance and potency possible.
Second, why should I believe the claims made by pet vitamin and mineral supplement makers?
Some vitamins for pets contain ingredients that are of no value or cannot be assimilated by the animal's system. Some formulations are not laboratory tested to dissolve before being eliminated from the animal's system.
Look for formulations that optimally produce both preventative and therapeutic results. Make sure active components are combined, as they are in nature, for optimal effectiveness. Check to see that after development, all formulations are evaluated and appraised by veterinarians. Buy only formulations with ingredients that are guaranteed to conform to the highest standard of quality, purity, and potency for maximum utilization by the animal's body. Finally, choose only products that have passed sophisticated laboratory testing before the product is approved for your purchase.
Third, will they stand behind their products with a money-back guarantee?
The correct answer must be a resounding Yes! Skip over any formulation that is not guaranteed to meet your complete satisfaction or your money back! The makers of the highest quality pet vitamins must have enough confidence in their product to offer a money-back guarantee with no hassle, no questions asked. If you're not happy, how can any ethical pet healthcare supplier be happy?
So which pet vitamin/mineral formula do I use and recommend? It's called DailySure. Thanks for asking. DailySure Gary Le Mon's day job is in the insured financial services industry, but his evenings and weekends are spent crusading for animal rights, promoting pet health care and making the Earth a greener, friendlier place to live. See also TripleSure
A dozen generations ago when pet vitamins were unheard of, this good earth was a veritable victory garden. The air was clean, water pure, soil rich with nutrients.
Today the world is different.
Corporate farms coax crops from barren soil using chemicals and pesticides. Food processing conglomerates replace any remaining nourishment with salt, sugar, artificial flavors and preservatives. Humans and animals subsist on a diet of lifeless inert matter in brightly adorned packaging that we call food only because we're brainwashed into eating it... and feeding it to our pets.
But you are to be congratulated. Here you are on the Internet searching for answers. Odds are, if your dog or cat had known how to search the Internet for pet vitamins and supplements, he or she would have done so long ago.
Nobody questions that humans, animals, fish, birds, plants - all living things - need proper nutrition to grow and stay healthy. The big question is which product to put your hard-earned money on. And whose claims to believe.
Here are the three most important questions to ask when searching for natural pet vitamins. We thought you should know the inside scoop because the decisions you make for your best friends are too important for guesswork.
First, how long have the people behind the pet vitamin formula been around?
Many newcomers to the pet supplement arena have not stood the test of time. Many hope to sell their products to inexperienced dog and cat owners who don't know better. A track record of 5 to 10 years is good; 20 or more even better. For over 34 years the makers of my favorite brand have developed products that provide the best form, balance and potency possible.
Second, why should I believe the claims made by pet vitamin and mineral supplement makers?
Some vitamins for pets contain ingredients that are of no value or cannot be assimilated by the animal's system. Some formulations are not laboratory tested to dissolve before being eliminated from the animal's system.
Look for formulations that optimally produce both preventative and therapeutic results. Make sure active components are combined, as they are in nature, for optimal effectiveness. Check to see that after development, all formulations are evaluated and appraised by veterinarians. Buy only formulations with ingredients that are guaranteed to conform to the highest standard of quality, purity, and potency for maximum utilization by the animal's body. Finally, choose only products that have passed sophisticated laboratory testing before the product is approved for your purchase.
Third, will they stand behind their products with a money-back guarantee?
The correct answer must be a resounding Yes! Skip over any formulation that is not guaranteed to meet your complete satisfaction or your money back! The makers of the highest quality pet vitamins must have enough confidence in their product to offer a money-back guarantee with no hassle, no questions asked. If you're not happy, how can any ethical pet healthcare supplier be happy?
So which pet vitamin/mineral formula do I use and recommend? It's called DailySure. Thanks for asking. DailySure Gary Le Mon's day job is in the insured financial services industry, but his evenings and weekends are spent crusading for animal rights, promoting pet health care and making the Earth a greener, friendlier place to live. See also TripleSure
Wednesday, February 13, 2008
4 Training Collar Options - How to Decide
By Paul J Easton
Many dog owners find that their efforts toward training their pet are greatly aided by the use of a training collar. There are many types of collars available and each employs a different way to guide your pet, restrain him or discourage bad or disobedient behavior.
Some training collars can harm a dog if they are not used appropriately or are the wrong size; so, you should research training collars thoroughly before choosing one.
Some common dog training collars are: the prong collar, the Halti, the Gentle Leader, the choke collar and the electronic collar.
Prong Collar
This collar is made up of metal prongs that have been linked together. When you apply a pulling pressure to the collar (via the leash), it gives the dog a little pinch that is meant to duplicate the effect of a mother dog's teeth when she grabs here pup by the scruff of the neck.
The prong collar is a safe and effective training tool as long as the fit is correct and the collar is used appropriately. The prong collar should not be used if your dog is one to consistently yank at his leash.
The prong collar should fit snugly against the dog's neck. A properly fitted collar should leave approximately � of a finger space in between your dog's neck and the prong tip. A collar that is any looser than that won't do its job and will needlessly chafe the dog's skin.
Halti and Gentle Leader
Both the Halti and Gentle Leader head halter devices look a lot like the harnesses that are used to control horses. While the prong collar is designed to condition behavior and movement, the head halter is designed to restrict or restrain your dog's movements. The thought behind the halter's design is that if you can control the head, the body will follow its movement.
When you pull on the attached leash the device closes the dog's mouth and restrains his head. These types of collars are great for dogs that lunge, bite or display other aggressive behaviors.
There are drawbacks, however, to using a head halter device. Most dogs will not take very easily to any device that positions a strap over its nose. You may have to struggle with your dog many, many times before he will submit to wearing it.
Another drawback is that pulling at your dog's head makes it a lot more likely that you'll inadvertently injure the dog's neck or back. To avoid injury, you should always make sure you're restraining your dog in the correct manner.
Choke Collar
The choke collar is one of those dog training devices that is often surrounded by controversy. Proponents of the choke collar point to its humane effectiveness, while critics say that the collar is more torture device than training tool. The truth is that what the collar becomes is largely dependent upon who is using it.
A properly fitted choke collar works by tightening around the dog's throat when the trainer pulls on the leash and then releasing pressure when the trainer does. If the collar is not put on correctly, however, the pressure will remain and the dog could truly choke to death. These collars are not meant for dogs that consistently pull at their leash or for inexperienced trainers. As is the case with head halters, the choke collar has the potential to cause injury to the dog's neck.
Electronic Collar
Just mention the option of an electronic dog collar and many dog owners (even some people with no pets at all) will look at you as if you have suggested training your dog with a stun gun.
The reality is that electronic collars can be a very humane way to train a dog. As with any other training device, however, whether or not it is used for purposes of cruelty is totally dependent upon the intentions and experience of the trainer.
The electronic collar works by allowing the trainer to give the dog small, electric shocks (via remote control) in order to modify its behavior. The intensity of the shock is left to the trainer. In general, the setting should be strong enough to make the dog's ears twitch. If the dog howls or yelps when the shock is delivered, then the setting is too high. Again, the electronic collar should only be used by experienced trainers.
Paul Easton is The owner of http://www.JustDogclothes.com
A Dog Clothes, Clothing and T-shirts online store - 2500 designs with the best possible prices available
Many dog owners find that their efforts toward training their pet are greatly aided by the use of a training collar. There are many types of collars available and each employs a different way to guide your pet, restrain him or discourage bad or disobedient behavior.
Some training collars can harm a dog if they are not used appropriately or are the wrong size; so, you should research training collars thoroughly before choosing one.
Some common dog training collars are: the prong collar, the Halti, the Gentle Leader, the choke collar and the electronic collar.
Prong Collar
This collar is made up of metal prongs that have been linked together. When you apply a pulling pressure to the collar (via the leash), it gives the dog a little pinch that is meant to duplicate the effect of a mother dog's teeth when she grabs here pup by the scruff of the neck.
The prong collar is a safe and effective training tool as long as the fit is correct and the collar is used appropriately. The prong collar should not be used if your dog is one to consistently yank at his leash.
The prong collar should fit snugly against the dog's neck. A properly fitted collar should leave approximately � of a finger space in between your dog's neck and the prong tip. A collar that is any looser than that won't do its job and will needlessly chafe the dog's skin.
Halti and Gentle Leader
Both the Halti and Gentle Leader head halter devices look a lot like the harnesses that are used to control horses. While the prong collar is designed to condition behavior and movement, the head halter is designed to restrict or restrain your dog's movements. The thought behind the halter's design is that if you can control the head, the body will follow its movement.
When you pull on the attached leash the device closes the dog's mouth and restrains his head. These types of collars are great for dogs that lunge, bite or display other aggressive behaviors.
There are drawbacks, however, to using a head halter device. Most dogs will not take very easily to any device that positions a strap over its nose. You may have to struggle with your dog many, many times before he will submit to wearing it.
Another drawback is that pulling at your dog's head makes it a lot more likely that you'll inadvertently injure the dog's neck or back. To avoid injury, you should always make sure you're restraining your dog in the correct manner.
Choke Collar
The choke collar is one of those dog training devices that is often surrounded by controversy. Proponents of the choke collar point to its humane effectiveness, while critics say that the collar is more torture device than training tool. The truth is that what the collar becomes is largely dependent upon who is using it.
A properly fitted choke collar works by tightening around the dog's throat when the trainer pulls on the leash and then releasing pressure when the trainer does. If the collar is not put on correctly, however, the pressure will remain and the dog could truly choke to death. These collars are not meant for dogs that consistently pull at their leash or for inexperienced trainers. As is the case with head halters, the choke collar has the potential to cause injury to the dog's neck.
Electronic Collar
Just mention the option of an electronic dog collar and many dog owners (even some people with no pets at all) will look at you as if you have suggested training your dog with a stun gun.
The reality is that electronic collars can be a very humane way to train a dog. As with any other training device, however, whether or not it is used for purposes of cruelty is totally dependent upon the intentions and experience of the trainer.
The electronic collar works by allowing the trainer to give the dog small, electric shocks (via remote control) in order to modify its behavior. The intensity of the shock is left to the trainer. In general, the setting should be strong enough to make the dog's ears twitch. If the dog howls or yelps when the shock is delivered, then the setting is too high. Again, the electronic collar should only be used by experienced trainers.
Paul Easton is The owner of http://www.JustDogclothes.com
A Dog Clothes, Clothing and T-shirts online store - 2500 designs with the best possible prices available
Monday, February 11, 2008
Are Pet Food Feeding Trials Essential?
By John Birch
In the course of a year several new dog and cat food products will be launched onto the UK pet food market. Some of these will be manufactured by the big boys, Masterfoods or Nestle Purina, who will conduct scientific feeding trials, but others come from small companies who really are just marketing and distributing - they have no manufacturing facilities and make use of independent manufacturers who produce food for anyone. Several well known and well advertised UK brands and a host of smaller brands are produced centrally and simply distributed by the brand owners.
Small companies cannot afford the luxury of Research & Development facilities, they also do not have the facilities to do their own pet food feeding trials. Let's face it, they are up against the might of the Waltham centre for Pet Nutrition operated by the company that brings you Pedigree, Royal Canin and the like. Their publicity states
'Set in the heart of the English countryside, the Waltham Centre for Pet Nutrition is a state-of-the-art facility that unifies all of the research and development expertise of the Mars group of pet care companies worldwide.
Waltham collaborates with many of the world's most prestigious universities and academics in advancing nutritional research and worldwide the Mars Group employs more than 100 dedicated veterinarians and 500 scientists (plus several of the world's leading companion animal nutritionists).'
No small company can compete with the might of such a multi-national company.
So is the pet food I feed safe?
That's an interesting question! Large pet food companies can afford the facilities of a testing centre, so what goes on there?
Well, the rules for conducting feeding trials seem to be all based around AAFCO guidelines.
Masterfoods say this about their feeding trials 'Adult maintenance trials may take six months to complete. A full veterinary examination is also conducted to ensure the pets used in the trial are healthy. Food intakes and body weights are recorded throughout the trial period along with other important indicators such as oral health, skin and coat health, body condition and faecal quality.
'At the conclusion of the trial a blood sample is taken to detect any nutritional deficiencies or excesses. As a further measure to assess palatability, in home feeding trials are conducted as we have access to approximately 8,000 households. This ensures we get a true reflection of pets' acceptance and preference of the product range. Some pet food products may take up to three years to develop because of this rigorous three-step testing process.'
What about a small company?
You will probably find that small companies tell you that they do not conduct feeding trials because they do not consider them necessary - usually a new food is given to staff and family to try out on their pets. If there are no adverse comments from users over a four or six week period then the food is launched to the general public.
This can work out fine, but essentially they are using pet owners around the country to do their long term food trials. I know of ocassions where a food has been launched in this way and then caused health problems that were not picked up during the initial food tasting.
However, it also has to be said that all new pet food recipes have their origin at feeding trials which have been done in the past. The AAFCO nutritional guidlines have been used for years as the base figures for formulating pet food recipes, and you or I could probably put together a fine quality pet food based upon those guidlines - but we have to bear in mind that these were established through nutritional feeding trials, and have been ammended no doubt since based upon current knowledge.
For this reason, unless a recipe is using very novel ingredients, or formulated with proportions of ingredients that vary greatly from other foods on the market, it is generally assumed that these foods will be perfectly safe for the pets that they have been created for.
So, maybe pet owners do need to ask themselves a question. If I am trying a new pet food, am I happy that this food has been extensively trialled over a period of 6 months to 2 years and proved by scientific methods to be beneficial to health - or am I comfortable that a food has been formulated to a similar recipe to others on the market, given out to a dozen or so pet owners and over a short period of time no adverse comments made?
The choice is ours!
The author, who originally trained as a food technologist has, in his time owned dogs, cats, hamsters and birds, sold pet food and spent the past decade marketing it. Now down to one cat, one dog and running Pet Food Choice, a website full of information on pet food choices, money-saving ideas and much more - http://www.pet-food-choice.co.uk
In the course of a year several new dog and cat food products will be launched onto the UK pet food market. Some of these will be manufactured by the big boys, Masterfoods or Nestle Purina, who will conduct scientific feeding trials, but others come from small companies who really are just marketing and distributing - they have no manufacturing facilities and make use of independent manufacturers who produce food for anyone. Several well known and well advertised UK brands and a host of smaller brands are produced centrally and simply distributed by the brand owners.
Small companies cannot afford the luxury of Research & Development facilities, they also do not have the facilities to do their own pet food feeding trials. Let's face it, they are up against the might of the Waltham centre for Pet Nutrition operated by the company that brings you Pedigree, Royal Canin and the like. Their publicity states
'Set in the heart of the English countryside, the Waltham Centre for Pet Nutrition is a state-of-the-art facility that unifies all of the research and development expertise of the Mars group of pet care companies worldwide.
Waltham collaborates with many of the world's most prestigious universities and academics in advancing nutritional research and worldwide the Mars Group employs more than 100 dedicated veterinarians and 500 scientists (plus several of the world's leading companion animal nutritionists).'
No small company can compete with the might of such a multi-national company.
So is the pet food I feed safe?
That's an interesting question! Large pet food companies can afford the facilities of a testing centre, so what goes on there?
Well, the rules for conducting feeding trials seem to be all based around AAFCO guidelines.
Masterfoods say this about their feeding trials 'Adult maintenance trials may take six months to complete. A full veterinary examination is also conducted to ensure the pets used in the trial are healthy. Food intakes and body weights are recorded throughout the trial period along with other important indicators such as oral health, skin and coat health, body condition and faecal quality.
'At the conclusion of the trial a blood sample is taken to detect any nutritional deficiencies or excesses. As a further measure to assess palatability, in home feeding trials are conducted as we have access to approximately 8,000 households. This ensures we get a true reflection of pets' acceptance and preference of the product range. Some pet food products may take up to three years to develop because of this rigorous three-step testing process.'
What about a small company?
You will probably find that small companies tell you that they do not conduct feeding trials because they do not consider them necessary - usually a new food is given to staff and family to try out on their pets. If there are no adverse comments from users over a four or six week period then the food is launched to the general public.
This can work out fine, but essentially they are using pet owners around the country to do their long term food trials. I know of ocassions where a food has been launched in this way and then caused health problems that were not picked up during the initial food tasting.
However, it also has to be said that all new pet food recipes have their origin at feeding trials which have been done in the past. The AAFCO nutritional guidlines have been used for years as the base figures for formulating pet food recipes, and you or I could probably put together a fine quality pet food based upon those guidlines - but we have to bear in mind that these were established through nutritional feeding trials, and have been ammended no doubt since based upon current knowledge.
For this reason, unless a recipe is using very novel ingredients, or formulated with proportions of ingredients that vary greatly from other foods on the market, it is generally assumed that these foods will be perfectly safe for the pets that they have been created for.
So, maybe pet owners do need to ask themselves a question. If I am trying a new pet food, am I happy that this food has been extensively trialled over a period of 6 months to 2 years and proved by scientific methods to be beneficial to health - or am I comfortable that a food has been formulated to a similar recipe to others on the market, given out to a dozen or so pet owners and over a short period of time no adverse comments made?
The choice is ours!
The author, who originally trained as a food technologist has, in his time owned dogs, cats, hamsters and birds, sold pet food and spent the past decade marketing it. Now down to one cat, one dog and running Pet Food Choice, a website full of information on pet food choices, money-saving ideas and much more - http://www.pet-food-choice.co.uk
Saturday, February 9, 2008
Is Pet Insurance Worth It?
By Amanda K. Jones
Believe it or not-but pet insurance is the most claimed-for type of insurance, more so than homeowners or auto insurance. Even so, the whole idea is pretty new to American pet owners. Less than 1 percent of 163 million cats and dogs in the United States are covered by a health insurance policy. In the United Kingdom and other European countries, 20-50 percent of the pet population has coverage.
Consumer Reports Isn't Always Right
Many pet owners wonder if investing in pet insurance is "worth it." An as alternative, some people advise to simply open a separate savings account for your pet's medical expenses. That way, if you don't end up needing the money for expensive vet bills you could spend it on something else-like a vacation to Hawaii.
For example, an article published in 2003 by Consumer Reports says, "The most important thing you need to know about pet insurance is that it is a form of enforced savings that almost never covers the entire bill. You can accomplish the same thing by paying the same monthly premium to your savings account."
I have to disagree that it can accomplish, "the same thing."
Yes, the purpose of any insurance is to cover future unknown risks. But you'll never know which is the better option until after the fact.
Although saving money is always a good idea, how long will it take you to save $3000, $5000, $7000? What if you're faced with a medical emergency and you don't have enough money saved up yet? I can guarantee that your pet isn't going to wait to get sick or injured!
$5000-$7000 is NOT an over-exaggeration of the kind of expenses you might encounter if your pet needs to visit a veterinary specialist or develops a chronic medical condition like diabetes, seizures, or thyroid disease.
Just Punch the Numbers
If you saved $50 a month it would take a little less than 10 years to save $7000 depending on the interest rate for your savings account. Depending on the pet insurance policy you choose, from the first day your policy is effective and for the same $50 a month you could receive $7,000-$14,000 per incident or even $100,000 for multiple lifetime incidents.
Even if by some miracle you have an extra $7,000 laying around to immediately fund your pet's savings account, your savings will be dwindled down to near zero once your pet experiences one serious medical incident. Then what?
Avoid Benefit Schedules
There are many factors to consider when evaluating the different types of pet insurance policies available. But one of the most important is whether or not the company uses a benefit schedule to reimburse claims. What this means is, regardless of the total cost of treatment, the policy will only pay up to a set figure (not a percentage) per condition.
You're much better off looking for a policy that covers a certain percentage of the claim (usually 80% or higher) based on the actual cost of the procedure and where you live. This takes into account the higher fees you're more likely to encounter at an emergency or specialty clinic and you never have to worry about inflation.
Many pet parents have discovered (to their disappointment) that the benefit schedules currently being offered by pet insurance companies have not been adjusted to take into account the recent inflation associated with veterinary expenses.
The fact is, your pet will likely require costly medical care at some point in its life. What would you do if your pet needed sudden medical attention, such as a trip to the emergency clinic, or was diagnosed with a chronic condition such as diabetes?
Both of these could easily cost $2500 or more. Would this cost cause you financial hardship? If you answered yes, then pet insurance would probably be worth it to you.
Some people believe that pet insurance is just another way for insurance companies to get rich. However, any kind of insurance is something that you have--but hope you never need to use. You just never know when you're going to need it. I've seen pet insurance save the lives of pets who otherwise would have been euthanized because of expensive medical bills.
You can't put a price on that.
� Amanda K. Jones, LVT
Amanda K. Jones is a consumer watchdog for the pet care industry and has worked as a licensed veterinary technician for the past eight years. Her latest report, "The Five Worst Pet Products I've Ever Seen" probably won't attract many corporate sponsors, but will certainly make pet owners think twice about using these popular products. For more information on Amanda and her report please visit http://www.amandakjones.com
Believe it or not-but pet insurance is the most claimed-for type of insurance, more so than homeowners or auto insurance. Even so, the whole idea is pretty new to American pet owners. Less than 1 percent of 163 million cats and dogs in the United States are covered by a health insurance policy. In the United Kingdom and other European countries, 20-50 percent of the pet population has coverage.
Consumer Reports Isn't Always Right
Many pet owners wonder if investing in pet insurance is "worth it." An as alternative, some people advise to simply open a separate savings account for your pet's medical expenses. That way, if you don't end up needing the money for expensive vet bills you could spend it on something else-like a vacation to Hawaii.
For example, an article published in 2003 by Consumer Reports says, "The most important thing you need to know about pet insurance is that it is a form of enforced savings that almost never covers the entire bill. You can accomplish the same thing by paying the same monthly premium to your savings account."
I have to disagree that it can accomplish, "the same thing."
Yes, the purpose of any insurance is to cover future unknown risks. But you'll never know which is the better option until after the fact.
Although saving money is always a good idea, how long will it take you to save $3000, $5000, $7000? What if you're faced with a medical emergency and you don't have enough money saved up yet? I can guarantee that your pet isn't going to wait to get sick or injured!
$5000-$7000 is NOT an over-exaggeration of the kind of expenses you might encounter if your pet needs to visit a veterinary specialist or develops a chronic medical condition like diabetes, seizures, or thyroid disease.
Just Punch the Numbers
If you saved $50 a month it would take a little less than 10 years to save $7000 depending on the interest rate for your savings account. Depending on the pet insurance policy you choose, from the first day your policy is effective and for the same $50 a month you could receive $7,000-$14,000 per incident or even $100,000 for multiple lifetime incidents.
Even if by some miracle you have an extra $7,000 laying around to immediately fund your pet's savings account, your savings will be dwindled down to near zero once your pet experiences one serious medical incident. Then what?
Avoid Benefit Schedules
There are many factors to consider when evaluating the different types of pet insurance policies available. But one of the most important is whether or not the company uses a benefit schedule to reimburse claims. What this means is, regardless of the total cost of treatment, the policy will only pay up to a set figure (not a percentage) per condition.
You're much better off looking for a policy that covers a certain percentage of the claim (usually 80% or higher) based on the actual cost of the procedure and where you live. This takes into account the higher fees you're more likely to encounter at an emergency or specialty clinic and you never have to worry about inflation.
Many pet parents have discovered (to their disappointment) that the benefit schedules currently being offered by pet insurance companies have not been adjusted to take into account the recent inflation associated with veterinary expenses.
The fact is, your pet will likely require costly medical care at some point in its life. What would you do if your pet needed sudden medical attention, such as a trip to the emergency clinic, or was diagnosed with a chronic condition such as diabetes?
Both of these could easily cost $2500 or more. Would this cost cause you financial hardship? If you answered yes, then pet insurance would probably be worth it to you.
Some people believe that pet insurance is just another way for insurance companies to get rich. However, any kind of insurance is something that you have--but hope you never need to use. You just never know when you're going to need it. I've seen pet insurance save the lives of pets who otherwise would have been euthanized because of expensive medical bills.
You can't put a price on that.
� Amanda K. Jones, LVT
Amanda K. Jones is a consumer watchdog for the pet care industry and has worked as a licensed veterinary technician for the past eight years. Her latest report, "The Five Worst Pet Products I've Ever Seen" probably won't attract many corporate sponsors, but will certainly make pet owners think twice about using these popular products. For more information on Amanda and her report please visit http://www.amandakjones.com
Thursday, February 7, 2008
How To Hire A Pet Sitter
By Susan Spencer
Leaving your dog or cat at home for extended periods of time while you're traveling can be trying for both you and your pet. You don't want to inconvenience your friends or family members by asking them to care for your pet while you're gone. You could board her at the vet, but that is also stressful for her. And you worry about the exposure to the other animals that are sick. An in-home pet sitter seems like the perfect solution. However, you may not know how to go about finding one.
A good place to start looking for a sitter is the International Locator on the Pet Sitters International website. If you submit your zip code (or your country if you live outside of the US), you will get a list of pet care providers in your area. You can also specify the kind of pet you need care for and the types of service you are looking for. It's best to enter just the criteria that are the most important to you. This will produce a bigger list of care givers for you to choose from. You can then click on the names of each of the sitters to find out more about them, including their contact information.
Once you have found a pet sitter who seems to be what you are looking for, you should make arrangements for her to visit your home before you are scheduled to leave. Most sitters will do this at no charge to you. Some pet sitting services employ several sitters, so make sure that the person who is coming to your house for the interview will be the person who makes the actual pet sitting visits while you are gone. You want to make sure that it is someone with whom you are comfortable, because you will be trusting her not only with your precious pet, but also with a key to your house. You also want to observe how the person interacts with your pet. Does your pet seem to like her?
Make sure that the sitter is insured. If anything should happen while you are away, such as your dog getting loose and biting someone, you need to know that you will be covered. Some people feel more secure if the sitter is also bonded, but unless he is an employee of a pet sitting company, bonding is really not necessary.
Feel free to ask for references. If the sitter has been in business for any length of time, she should be able and willing to provide you with a couple of phone numbers or email addresses of satisfied clients for you to contact.
Have a spare key made before the interview, and have it handy when the pet sitter arrives. Then, if you decide to hire him, he will not have to make another trip to your house (most likely at your expense) to pick it up later. Some sitters require two spare keys, which is for your pet's protection as much as for the sitter's. If the sitter should accidentally lock himself out of your house during a visit, it is much faster and easier (not to mention less expensive) for him to go back to the office and get the extra key, than to have to call a locksmith.
The sitter will need a way to reach you while you are gone, as well as the phone number and address of your veterinarian, and perhaps a neighbor or a friend who may be called upon in an emergency. Make sure you have all the information on hand that the pet sitter might need in your absence. It is better to provide more information than will be needed, than for the sitter to need a bit of info in an emergency and not be able to find it.
You can do a Google search for pet sitters in your area to compare prices, but don't choose your sitter by price alone. You are trusting her with your baby and also your home. Choose someone who knows the value of the service they provide and takes her responsibility seriously.
Membership in one or more pet sitting organizations may indicate that the pet sitter is serious about his pet sitting business, but beyond that, it does not tell you a great deal. Anyone can join a pet sitting organization if they pay a fee. There is also no pet sitting license available, so if someone says they are a licensed, it merely means that they have a business license and pay their taxes.
Hiring a pet sitter is not that difficult if you know what to look for. Start your search at least several weeks before you have to leave, and you will have plenty of time to work out all the details. Your pet will thank you for it!
Susan is an animal lover and a former pet sitting business owner. She is currently owned by a Ragdoll cat, whom she adores.
Leaving your dog or cat at home for extended periods of time while you're traveling can be trying for both you and your pet. You don't want to inconvenience your friends or family members by asking them to care for your pet while you're gone. You could board her at the vet, but that is also stressful for her. And you worry about the exposure to the other animals that are sick. An in-home pet sitter seems like the perfect solution. However, you may not know how to go about finding one.
A good place to start looking for a sitter is the International Locator on the Pet Sitters International website. If you submit your zip code (or your country if you live outside of the US), you will get a list of pet care providers in your area. You can also specify the kind of pet you need care for and the types of service you are looking for. It's best to enter just the criteria that are the most important to you. This will produce a bigger list of care givers for you to choose from. You can then click on the names of each of the sitters to find out more about them, including their contact information.
Once you have found a pet sitter who seems to be what you are looking for, you should make arrangements for her to visit your home before you are scheduled to leave. Most sitters will do this at no charge to you. Some pet sitting services employ several sitters, so make sure that the person who is coming to your house for the interview will be the person who makes the actual pet sitting visits while you are gone. You want to make sure that it is someone with whom you are comfortable, because you will be trusting her not only with your precious pet, but also with a key to your house. You also want to observe how the person interacts with your pet. Does your pet seem to like her?
Make sure that the sitter is insured. If anything should happen while you are away, such as your dog getting loose and biting someone, you need to know that you will be covered. Some people feel more secure if the sitter is also bonded, but unless he is an employee of a pet sitting company, bonding is really not necessary.
Feel free to ask for references. If the sitter has been in business for any length of time, she should be able and willing to provide you with a couple of phone numbers or email addresses of satisfied clients for you to contact.
Have a spare key made before the interview, and have it handy when the pet sitter arrives. Then, if you decide to hire him, he will not have to make another trip to your house (most likely at your expense) to pick it up later. Some sitters require two spare keys, which is for your pet's protection as much as for the sitter's. If the sitter should accidentally lock himself out of your house during a visit, it is much faster and easier (not to mention less expensive) for him to go back to the office and get the extra key, than to have to call a locksmith.
The sitter will need a way to reach you while you are gone, as well as the phone number and address of your veterinarian, and perhaps a neighbor or a friend who may be called upon in an emergency. Make sure you have all the information on hand that the pet sitter might need in your absence. It is better to provide more information than will be needed, than for the sitter to need a bit of info in an emergency and not be able to find it.
You can do a Google search for pet sitters in your area to compare prices, but don't choose your sitter by price alone. You are trusting her with your baby and also your home. Choose someone who knows the value of the service they provide and takes her responsibility seriously.
Membership in one or more pet sitting organizations may indicate that the pet sitter is serious about his pet sitting business, but beyond that, it does not tell you a great deal. Anyone can join a pet sitting organization if they pay a fee. There is also no pet sitting license available, so if someone says they are a licensed, it merely means that they have a business license and pay their taxes.
Hiring a pet sitter is not that difficult if you know what to look for. Start your search at least several weeks before you have to leave, and you will have plenty of time to work out all the details. Your pet will thank you for it!
Susan is an animal lover and a former pet sitting business owner. She is currently owned by a Ragdoll cat, whom she adores.
Tuesday, February 5, 2008
Organic Pet Food For Greater Vitality
By Virginia Louise
If you are already a convert to the organic food way of life then you will already know the major benefits of eating this way:
Meat, fruit and vegetables free of chemical pesticides which can number up to 20 different types in ordinary produce; Higher concentrations of vitamins, minerals and fibre;
A much improved taste experience making eating more enjoyable and you feeling more alive and healthy than before. If you are enjoying these benefits then is it not time you offered them to your pets? Just in the same way we can opt for organic food, now you can offer a range to your pets for their approval.
What Organic Pet Food Is Available?
Taking a look around the internet you will readily see offerings for organic dog food and also, maybe to a lesser extent, organic cat food. Several suppliers are very active in organic pet foods and typically this is what they have to offer: All organic pet food products are made with human grade organic ingredients which can include: chicken and other meats, organic cereals and organic rice as well as organic vegetables.
It is stated on one site that the ingredients are exactly the grade of food that you as a human would not hesitate in consuming. After some searching you will find that what you already buy for your pet will probably be available in an organic form of some description.
Typical products available are:
Tinned organic dog food, organic kibble organic dog treats, tinned organic cat food, there is even a company that is offering organic canine cookies.However, do not be tempted to get carried away with the treats just because they are organic, remember that moderation is advised and always read the product labels.
Added Advantages
Many of these foods are also hypo-allergenic and gluten free, meaning that if your pet is suffering from allergy or digestive problems then there may just be an organic pet food solution out there that will help ease its suffering.
Virginia Louise is a convert to the organic way of life and enjoys a healthier lifestyle.
Visit her organic food web site for some free recipes and lots of helpful hints.
If you are already a convert to the organic food way of life then you will already know the major benefits of eating this way:
Meat, fruit and vegetables free of chemical pesticides which can number up to 20 different types in ordinary produce; Higher concentrations of vitamins, minerals and fibre;
A much improved taste experience making eating more enjoyable and you feeling more alive and healthy than before. If you are enjoying these benefits then is it not time you offered them to your pets? Just in the same way we can opt for organic food, now you can offer a range to your pets for their approval.
What Organic Pet Food Is Available?
Taking a look around the internet you will readily see offerings for organic dog food and also, maybe to a lesser extent, organic cat food. Several suppliers are very active in organic pet foods and typically this is what they have to offer: All organic pet food products are made with human grade organic ingredients which can include: chicken and other meats, organic cereals and organic rice as well as organic vegetables.
It is stated on one site that the ingredients are exactly the grade of food that you as a human would not hesitate in consuming. After some searching you will find that what you already buy for your pet will probably be available in an organic form of some description.
Typical products available are:
Tinned organic dog food, organic kibble organic dog treats, tinned organic cat food, there is even a company that is offering organic canine cookies.However, do not be tempted to get carried away with the treats just because they are organic, remember that moderation is advised and always read the product labels.
Added Advantages
Many of these foods are also hypo-allergenic and gluten free, meaning that if your pet is suffering from allergy or digestive problems then there may just be an organic pet food solution out there that will help ease its suffering.
Virginia Louise is a convert to the organic way of life and enjoys a healthier lifestyle.
Visit her organic food web site for some free recipes and lots of helpful hints.
Sunday, February 3, 2008
How My Dog Taz Became The Houdini Of Dogs - The World's Greatest Escape Artist
By Julius Robinson
The first dog I ever owned was Taz, a shorthaired, dingo-like medium male
mutt with a handsome face and intelligent eyes. I had been married ten years,
and had an eight-year-old daughter. We bought our first house in the San
Fernando Valley area of Los Angeles , a ranch-style 3 bedroom with a big yard.
At our housewarming party, as is customary in friendly circles, someone gave
us a six month old pup saved from the pound. Taz.
Taz had no obvious bad habits. No biting, peeing or pooping in the house. He
chewed a couple sofas, that was it. However, Taz always was a bit leery of
our family. My wife Cindi is outgoing, always on-the-run show biz exec, never
much of a pet person. A dog was just another item any decent house must have,
much like a nice china buffet or a wide-screen TV. It's not that she was mean
to him, they just didn't connect. I think dog food grossed my wife out, so I
was the one who fed him. You can imagine who picked up poop.
I loved to scratch Taz's ears and he was affectionate towards me. But, if
such a thing was possible, Taz seemed a bit bored by my company. Like he was
really way too smart and he had to suffer this fool because I was human and
had a house and fed him and walked him. I just thought I was incredibly
insecure, imagining things about my dog that could not be true.
My 8-year old daughter Chloe was into her own world of reading and
imagination. She loved Taz a lot, but her promise to walk the dog every day
soon got old as Taz would pull on the leash so hard that she would either
have to let go or get dragged along the ground.
So the chore of feeding, walking and training Taz fell to me. I guess I made
every mistake in the book. On my daily walks with Taz he pulled the leash. I
let him pull, in fact, I would take him to one of my favorite hiking trails
nearby -- one that was mostly uphill for the first mile, and let Taz drag me
like a one-dog mush team to the top. I was lazy, Taz was exhausted, but
triumphant. He was the leader of the pack and I was the alpha dog. Beta
really. I think this was the problem. I never established myself as the
leader of the pack. I was just this competing male Taz wanted to get away
from.
What I should have done first of all was train him to sit quietly and
patiently in the house while I attached the leash. If he pulled, I should
have just sat down and waited until he calmed down and stopped. Then, instead
of heading toward the door, I should have walked him with a loose leash
around the house. Finally, we should have practiced sitting at the door,
leash loose, until I gave the command to walk out. But I was too ignorant and
busy to train him properly, I take all the blame!
Luckily, Taz came to us already house trained, so this was never the problem.
In fact he loved the yard a lot, exploring every corner. I was relieved at
first, proud that I had a yard large enough for him to explore and stretch
his legs. In fact, everything was hunky-dory until one day I spotted Taz
through the living room window sprinting away down the street. A whole year
of prison-breaks had begun.
I would usually jump into my car and give chase. Taz would spot me and deftly
bolt through traffic and into adjoining neighborhoods. Usually I would lose
him around a corner. A few hours later, however, I would inevitably get a
phone call. We had luckily always had a dog tag with our phone number around
his neck. Every person would describe a scratching at the door, and Taz would
invite himself in and make himself at home.
I went about sealing every possible escape route from my yard. I then had Taz
neutered, which someone said was the possible reason for his wanderlust the
smell of females. Despite all this Taz would escape again and again, and
within hours I would receive the customary phone call. Everyone loved Taz,
and I got to know a lot of people in a one-mile radius from my house.
Taz seemed to gravitate to one neighbor in particular who lived at the end of
a cul-de-sac by the freeway. The middle-aged husband and wife had three other
dogs. The husband was this surly unshaven kind of guy with a big potbelly who
wore ill-fitting white t-shirts. The wife was friendly enough, understood,
but I could tell the lumpy husband was none too pleased by Taz's frequent
visits.
Finally one day, I glanced into the backyard and witnessed Taz deftly
climbing a 6-foot tall wall covered with ivy and jumping over the fence. I
could not believe my eyes. The dog was part monkey. Someone suggested an
electric fence but I balked. I was not running a damn prison. I didn't want
to leave him tied up all day. I didn't know what to do but keep Taz in the
house.
However, soon even that strategy failed. Taz would slyly wait until one of us
would open the door and bolt out at full clip, headed for freedom, like Steve
McQueen on a motorcycle escaping the POW camp. Soon we would open the door
just wide enough for us to slide through and close it quickly when entering
and leaving the house. We felt like snakes.
This seemed to work for a while until one midnight the burglar alarm went off.
We were terrified. The backyard French doors were open. I was about to dial
911 when I noticed Taz climbing the rear fence faster than doggedly possible.
I suddenly realized Taz had opened the door himself and escaped.
I installed dead bolts in the doors, and all was well for a few weeks until a
house guest who was a chain smoker stayed with us. As you might guess, at two
a.m. he went out back for a smoke -- another escape opportunity for Taz.
I was awakened at 3:00 am by a phone call: the cul-de-sac freeway neighbors
were calling. The more friendly wife said Taz had scratched at their door,
woke them up, come in, snuggled in bed with them and fallen fast asleep. I
could come by in the morning to pick him up
The next morning I sheepishly arrive in my car and opened the hatch. The
lumpy t-shirt guy came out arms folded and promptly began loudly berating me:
"You're a child! You're a child! You can't control your own dog. What's wrong
with you? Have you thought about what is wrong with YOU?"
I begged for mercy, and finally was saved by the wife who brought Taz out. I
stuffed Taz in back and vowed to never have this happen again.
It just so happened that we were going camping the following weekend, and a
good friend of my wife who was an actress and dog trainer on the side vowed
to cure Taz of his bad habits. She moved in for a few days with her own
little black terrier, and soon I was bedazzled by the site of Taz dutifully
following orders, sitting, following, stopping (no fetching, the actress
thought that too demeaning). Taz stopped running away. I was amazed. She
vowed by the time we returned from our camping trip we would have a brand new
Taz
It was on our way home that we got a call that Taz had escaped once again.
This time he was at the dog pound. I walked down the long, depressing row of
cages and found Taz, looking awfully glad to see me.
The actress had helped; Taz was better for a few weeks, until one day he
slipped out the door when I was taking out the trash and sprinted toward the
dreaded cul-de-sac. This time I didn't even bother to follow.
Shortly afterward I got a phone call from the cul-de-sac wife. Look, said the
woman with all the kindness she could muster, we really love Taz. He sleeps
with us in our bed. He gets along great with our other three dogs, and our
roommate, a single woman, wants to walk him everyday. What do you say you let
us adopt him, no questions asked?
I talked it over with Cindi and Chloe, and at first their natural
possessiveness kicked in, as did mine. But I argued, maybe Taz liked it
better at the cul-de-sac. Maybe we never were the right family for Taz. We
all felt very sad, but finally we all agreed.
In fact I would often see Taz walking with the single woman, looking content.
Every now and then I'd see them on that steep hiking trail (not pulling the
leash) and Taz would lick me in recognition. As the years went by I saw him
less and less, and even once on the trail Taz did not seem to remember me.
If this seems like a bittersweet ending, it is. I wish I had known what I
know now about dog training. But ultimately, Taz was happier with that family,
and although I alone take the blame, I also am grateful to have known Taz --
and the lessons he taught me about myself.
Visit my website for other Dog and Puppy Tips http://www.PuppyDogTips.com
Julius Robinson is a noted writer and animal lover whose trials and tribulations with his dog Taz have inspired many to take control of their dogs. Visit his website http://www.PuppyDogTips.com
The first dog I ever owned was Taz, a shorthaired, dingo-like medium male
mutt with a handsome face and intelligent eyes. I had been married ten years,
and had an eight-year-old daughter. We bought our first house in the San
Fernando Valley area of Los Angeles , a ranch-style 3 bedroom with a big yard.
At our housewarming party, as is customary in friendly circles, someone gave
us a six month old pup saved from the pound. Taz.
Taz had no obvious bad habits. No biting, peeing or pooping in the house. He
chewed a couple sofas, that was it. However, Taz always was a bit leery of
our family. My wife Cindi is outgoing, always on-the-run show biz exec, never
much of a pet person. A dog was just another item any decent house must have,
much like a nice china buffet or a wide-screen TV. It's not that she was mean
to him, they just didn't connect. I think dog food grossed my wife out, so I
was the one who fed him. You can imagine who picked up poop.
I loved to scratch Taz's ears and he was affectionate towards me. But, if
such a thing was possible, Taz seemed a bit bored by my company. Like he was
really way too smart and he had to suffer this fool because I was human and
had a house and fed him and walked him. I just thought I was incredibly
insecure, imagining things about my dog that could not be true.
My 8-year old daughter Chloe was into her own world of reading and
imagination. She loved Taz a lot, but her promise to walk the dog every day
soon got old as Taz would pull on the leash so hard that she would either
have to let go or get dragged along the ground.
So the chore of feeding, walking and training Taz fell to me. I guess I made
every mistake in the book. On my daily walks with Taz he pulled the leash. I
let him pull, in fact, I would take him to one of my favorite hiking trails
nearby -- one that was mostly uphill for the first mile, and let Taz drag me
like a one-dog mush team to the top. I was lazy, Taz was exhausted, but
triumphant. He was the leader of the pack and I was the alpha dog. Beta
really. I think this was the problem. I never established myself as the
leader of the pack. I was just this competing male Taz wanted to get away
from.
What I should have done first of all was train him to sit quietly and
patiently in the house while I attached the leash. If he pulled, I should
have just sat down and waited until he calmed down and stopped. Then, instead
of heading toward the door, I should have walked him with a loose leash
around the house. Finally, we should have practiced sitting at the door,
leash loose, until I gave the command to walk out. But I was too ignorant and
busy to train him properly, I take all the blame!
Luckily, Taz came to us already house trained, so this was never the problem.
In fact he loved the yard a lot, exploring every corner. I was relieved at
first, proud that I had a yard large enough for him to explore and stretch
his legs. In fact, everything was hunky-dory until one day I spotted Taz
through the living room window sprinting away down the street. A whole year
of prison-breaks had begun.
I would usually jump into my car and give chase. Taz would spot me and deftly
bolt through traffic and into adjoining neighborhoods. Usually I would lose
him around a corner. A few hours later, however, I would inevitably get a
phone call. We had luckily always had a dog tag with our phone number around
his neck. Every person would describe a scratching at the door, and Taz would
invite himself in and make himself at home.
I went about sealing every possible escape route from my yard. I then had Taz
neutered, which someone said was the possible reason for his wanderlust the
smell of females. Despite all this Taz would escape again and again, and
within hours I would receive the customary phone call. Everyone loved Taz,
and I got to know a lot of people in a one-mile radius from my house.
Taz seemed to gravitate to one neighbor in particular who lived at the end of
a cul-de-sac by the freeway. The middle-aged husband and wife had three other
dogs. The husband was this surly unshaven kind of guy with a big potbelly who
wore ill-fitting white t-shirts. The wife was friendly enough, understood,
but I could tell the lumpy husband was none too pleased by Taz's frequent
visits.
Finally one day, I glanced into the backyard and witnessed Taz deftly
climbing a 6-foot tall wall covered with ivy and jumping over the fence. I
could not believe my eyes. The dog was part monkey. Someone suggested an
electric fence but I balked. I was not running a damn prison. I didn't want
to leave him tied up all day. I didn't know what to do but keep Taz in the
house.
However, soon even that strategy failed. Taz would slyly wait until one of us
would open the door and bolt out at full clip, headed for freedom, like Steve
McQueen on a motorcycle escaping the POW camp. Soon we would open the door
just wide enough for us to slide through and close it quickly when entering
and leaving the house. We felt like snakes.
This seemed to work for a while until one midnight the burglar alarm went off.
We were terrified. The backyard French doors were open. I was about to dial
911 when I noticed Taz climbing the rear fence faster than doggedly possible.
I suddenly realized Taz had opened the door himself and escaped.
I installed dead bolts in the doors, and all was well for a few weeks until a
house guest who was a chain smoker stayed with us. As you might guess, at two
a.m. he went out back for a smoke -- another escape opportunity for Taz.
I was awakened at 3:00 am by a phone call: the cul-de-sac freeway neighbors
were calling. The more friendly wife said Taz had scratched at their door,
woke them up, come in, snuggled in bed with them and fallen fast asleep. I
could come by in the morning to pick him up
The next morning I sheepishly arrive in my car and opened the hatch. The
lumpy t-shirt guy came out arms folded and promptly began loudly berating me:
"You're a child! You're a child! You can't control your own dog. What's wrong
with you? Have you thought about what is wrong with YOU?"
I begged for mercy, and finally was saved by the wife who brought Taz out. I
stuffed Taz in back and vowed to never have this happen again.
It just so happened that we were going camping the following weekend, and a
good friend of my wife who was an actress and dog trainer on the side vowed
to cure Taz of his bad habits. She moved in for a few days with her own
little black terrier, and soon I was bedazzled by the site of Taz dutifully
following orders, sitting, following, stopping (no fetching, the actress
thought that too demeaning). Taz stopped running away. I was amazed. She
vowed by the time we returned from our camping trip we would have a brand new
Taz
It was on our way home that we got a call that Taz had escaped once again.
This time he was at the dog pound. I walked down the long, depressing row of
cages and found Taz, looking awfully glad to see me.
The actress had helped; Taz was better for a few weeks, until one day he
slipped out the door when I was taking out the trash and sprinted toward the
dreaded cul-de-sac. This time I didn't even bother to follow.
Shortly afterward I got a phone call from the cul-de-sac wife. Look, said the
woman with all the kindness she could muster, we really love Taz. He sleeps
with us in our bed. He gets along great with our other three dogs, and our
roommate, a single woman, wants to walk him everyday. What do you say you let
us adopt him, no questions asked?
I talked it over with Cindi and Chloe, and at first their natural
possessiveness kicked in, as did mine. But I argued, maybe Taz liked it
better at the cul-de-sac. Maybe we never were the right family for Taz. We
all felt very sad, but finally we all agreed.
In fact I would often see Taz walking with the single woman, looking content.
Every now and then I'd see them on that steep hiking trail (not pulling the
leash) and Taz would lick me in recognition. As the years went by I saw him
less and less, and even once on the trail Taz did not seem to remember me.
If this seems like a bittersweet ending, it is. I wish I had known what I
know now about dog training. But ultimately, Taz was happier with that family,
and although I alone take the blame, I also am grateful to have known Taz --
and the lessons he taught me about myself.
Visit my website for other Dog and Puppy Tips http://www.PuppyDogTips.com
Julius Robinson is a noted writer and animal lover whose trials and tribulations with his dog Taz have inspired many to take control of their dogs. Visit his website http://www.PuppyDogTips.com
Friday, February 1, 2008
Does Convenience Dictate our Choice of Petfood?
By John Birch
The basic choice we have when we look for a petfood for our dog or cat is whether to go for a dry complete mix, or a moist/canned food. The main criteria to consider are the place you shop, how much money you would like to spend and the level of convenience, palatability and digestibility desired.
The difference in moisture content among the various types of pet food impacts the nutrient density of the products or the amount of nutrients per pound of food. As the water content of the diet increases, the amount of protein, fat and other essential nutrients decreases. That means the animal must consume a larger portion of the high moisture products to receive the nutrition they need, but it also makes comparisons between the different types of food difficult.
Canned or pouch foods offer highest palatability and the highest cost per serving when compared to the dry and soft-moist products. However, they are less convenient to use, as once opened any unused food needs to be stored in the refrigerator.
The main advantage of dry foods is convenience, as wastage is minimal, cost is low in comparison to canned or pouch foods, and it is claimed that the grinding action of eating dry food helps to keep teeth clean (again disputed by some.)
Carbohydrates constitute between 30 percent and 40 percent of dry cat food. Some have been concerned that this unnatural diet is harmful to cats and leads to increased incidence of diabetes. Wet cat food, on the other hand, is high in protein and more similar to a natural carnivore diet.
Canned or Pouch Food
Obviously it is difficult to give anything other than a guide to the production process, as methods and machinery vary. Also, some products are presented in a 'loaf' form and others as chunks in 'gravy'. But a typical processing scenario for canned or pouch food would be:
Meat products are thawed, pre-chopped and stored in silos containing no more than half an hour's production.
Then as soon as they enter the production chain, the ingredients required for the recipe are dosed and ground.
An endless screw collects and weighs the components.
The resulting mass is then sent to the thin pre-cutters and mixers. At this stage, minerals, cereals and vitamins as required are added to ensure a balanced diet for the cat or the dog.
The product is then packed in cans, metal trays or sterilised pouches
Bear in mind that those 'meaty chunks' in your pet's food may not be all that they seem! Much of this material is manufactured from ground up meat which is extruded to give the impression of meat fibres. Soya protein isolates can help to give these chunks more body by holding onto water.
Dry Food
Again it is difficult to give anything other than a guide to the production process, as methods and machinery vary, but the simplified method below is common:
The ingredients required for a given recipe are first weighed, ground and mixed.
Production is achieved through a special technology : cooking-extrusion. This involves exposing the mixture of animal and vegetable materials to the combined effects of pressure and temperature for a short period, making the product highly digestible as it ensures the complete cooking of the starch.
Dry foods may then be sprayed with fat in order to complete their composition and increase palatability.
Because dry foods are exposed to the air, and not sterilised in a can or pouch, they need to have anti-oxidants and preservatives added to ensure that the product does not go rancid. These can be chemical (declared as 'EU approved antioxidants' and could be BHA, BHT or Ethoxiquin for instance) or natural (Vitamin E or C, and an extract of Rosemary Oil are common),
Natural antioxidants are generally less stable and more prone to degredation if subjected to high temperatures. They are also more expensive to use!
The author, who originally trained as a food technologist has, in his time owned dogs, cats, hamsters and birds, sold pet food and spent the past decade marketing it. Now down to one cat, one dog and running Pet Food Choice, a website full of information on pet food choices, money-saving ideas and much more - http://www.pet-food-choice.co.uk
The basic choice we have when we look for a petfood for our dog or cat is whether to go for a dry complete mix, or a moist/canned food. The main criteria to consider are the place you shop, how much money you would like to spend and the level of convenience, palatability and digestibility desired.
The difference in moisture content among the various types of pet food impacts the nutrient density of the products or the amount of nutrients per pound of food. As the water content of the diet increases, the amount of protein, fat and other essential nutrients decreases. That means the animal must consume a larger portion of the high moisture products to receive the nutrition they need, but it also makes comparisons between the different types of food difficult.
Canned or pouch foods offer highest palatability and the highest cost per serving when compared to the dry and soft-moist products. However, they are less convenient to use, as once opened any unused food needs to be stored in the refrigerator.
The main advantage of dry foods is convenience, as wastage is minimal, cost is low in comparison to canned or pouch foods, and it is claimed that the grinding action of eating dry food helps to keep teeth clean (again disputed by some.)
Carbohydrates constitute between 30 percent and 40 percent of dry cat food. Some have been concerned that this unnatural diet is harmful to cats and leads to increased incidence of diabetes. Wet cat food, on the other hand, is high in protein and more similar to a natural carnivore diet.
Canned or Pouch Food
Obviously it is difficult to give anything other than a guide to the production process, as methods and machinery vary. Also, some products are presented in a 'loaf' form and others as chunks in 'gravy'. But a typical processing scenario for canned or pouch food would be:
Meat products are thawed, pre-chopped and stored in silos containing no more than half an hour's production.
Then as soon as they enter the production chain, the ingredients required for the recipe are dosed and ground.
An endless screw collects and weighs the components.
The resulting mass is then sent to the thin pre-cutters and mixers. At this stage, minerals, cereals and vitamins as required are added to ensure a balanced diet for the cat or the dog.
The product is then packed in cans, metal trays or sterilised pouches
Bear in mind that those 'meaty chunks' in your pet's food may not be all that they seem! Much of this material is manufactured from ground up meat which is extruded to give the impression of meat fibres. Soya protein isolates can help to give these chunks more body by holding onto water.
Dry Food
Again it is difficult to give anything other than a guide to the production process, as methods and machinery vary, but the simplified method below is common:
The ingredients required for a given recipe are first weighed, ground and mixed.
Production is achieved through a special technology : cooking-extrusion. This involves exposing the mixture of animal and vegetable materials to the combined effects of pressure and temperature for a short period, making the product highly digestible as it ensures the complete cooking of the starch.
Dry foods may then be sprayed with fat in order to complete their composition and increase palatability.
Because dry foods are exposed to the air, and not sterilised in a can or pouch, they need to have anti-oxidants and preservatives added to ensure that the product does not go rancid. These can be chemical (declared as 'EU approved antioxidants' and could be BHA, BHT or Ethoxiquin for instance) or natural (Vitamin E or C, and an extract of Rosemary Oil are common),
Natural antioxidants are generally less stable and more prone to degredation if subjected to high temperatures. They are also more expensive to use!
The author, who originally trained as a food technologist has, in his time owned dogs, cats, hamsters and birds, sold pet food and spent the past decade marketing it. Now down to one cat, one dog and running Pet Food Choice, a website full of information on pet food choices, money-saving ideas and much more - http://www.pet-food-choice.co.uk
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