By Raymond Angus
Seniors pets are companions! Our friends! Whether they're
pet dogs or pet cats or any of a thousand other pet animals
we bring into our homes, they share our lives with us as
virtual human beings.
They faithfully stand beside us no matter what the world
throws at us. They reward us with their trust and
affection.
We give them personal names. We dub them Fido, Butch,
Fluffy, Mitzi or any of a myriad other appellations. The
amazing fact is that we create entire personalities around
the names we award them with.
In our minds they are people just like us!
Butch may in fact be just a tiny Yorkshire Terrier dog, but
he's a tough little dude who bullies and bluffs his way
through life. Mitzi is a regal, white Persian cat, who even
though she considers herself a queen, she grants you the
privilege of caring for all of her personal needs.
They get hair all over the furniture and on your best suit
or dress. You find fur balls under the dining room table
just as dinner guests ring the front door bell. At ten
o:clock on a rainy Friday night, Fido scratches at the door
to announce he wants, and needs, to go outside.
Why do we share our lives with pets and put up with their
many and sometimes irritating habits?
The answer is simple...because we need them in our personal
worlds to make life bearable.
Are you a senior parent with a home now devoid of young
voices and excitement? Have your children moved on to their
own worlds and don't barge back into yours as much as you
would like?
Do you crawl out of bed each morning and wonder how you will
fill the hours until the end of the new day? Do you look
forward to the air conditioning unit turning on and off to
break the endless silence of an empty house?
Scientific research over the years has revealed some
surprising revelations about the very real partnership that
exists between humans and their live in pets. Medical
science has shown that a true symbiotic relationship
develops in an owner and pet equation.
The pet and the owner share a mutual need for each other and
both profit from the arrangement.
A person's physical and mental health show marked
improvement if a pet lives in the household. Loneliness
dissolves and pet owners display increasing vigor and
contentment with the companionship of a pet. Dogs and cats
were the pets most often involved in the medical surveys.
The research revealed that people felt needed by the pet and
were forced to develop a schedule for providing for the
animals' welfare. This mutual reliance helped both men and
women pet owners to become more enthused for their own
personal welfare. In the final analysis, the humans felt
more needed and valuable as individuals.
Because of the contentment factor enjoyed by the pet owners,
significant physical improvements were often displayed.
The very next time you look at Sheba or Butch, lean over and
give them an added pat on the head, or a special treat for
dinner.
Why? Just for being there!
Raymond Angus is a widely read author of articles and books.
He writes about seniors and their world.
To read more of his work turn to: http://www.theseniorslife.com
Saturday, February 23, 2008
Thursday, February 21, 2008
Cooking for Sick Pets
By Julee Roth
Nothing is more frustrating than a pet with diarrhea or constant vomiting - I know, I have experienced these messy problems for one long month. I adopted two kittens from a large chain pet store. No more than 15 minutes into our journey home, adorable little Lulu had diarrhea. I thought it was related to the car ride, but after a few days of scooping wet, runny poop from both kittens I knew this was a health issue.
I took the kittens to the vet, and even though they may have been given shots, my vet suggested they were too young and not properly immunized. I told him about their diarrhea - they had very healthy appetites and were drinking water. My vet gave them their shots, prescribed medication and home we went.
The medication was difficult to give and it didn't seem to help. I put canned pumpkin in their food. It didn't really help. I added psyllium. It didn't help. I went online and began some research. And I found Vitality Sciences - a company founded in 1991 to help people with GI problems.
I read their research, I read their testimonials then I called and ordered the feline diarrhea vomiting combo. Because I didn't have a specific cause of the problem, I needed to try a few product combinations. Within the week Pearl had normal stools. Lulu, the other kitten, took a bit longer to treat but is now diarrhea free. So for treatment resistant diarrhea or vomiting, these six products can be combined to fight the infection, cure the disease and get your pet back into health. See the specific products at www.ChoicePetProducts.com.
So what did I do for their food? I cooked for them, of course! I found that they like the Shelton brand of frozen minced turkey the best. I add enough distilled water (buy it at the grocery - especially if your pet may have Giardia) to completely cover the thawed turkey. I cook the turkey until the juices run clear. This is the experimental part and it works for most dogs and cats.
For diarrhea, I started with 1 Tablespoon of canned organic pumpkin to one cup of cooked turkey. For dogs, you may want to add 1/2 cup cooked long grain rice. I fed 1 tablespoon of this food to my kittens and about 2 tablespoons to my adult male cat three times a day. (My adult male loves plain turkey and hated the pumpkin after a while.) I fed a small amount of dry food and clean, distilled water is out all day. Once the turkey is thawed (properly, please, no need to give food poisoning on top of other GI problems) the cooking time is about 10-12 minutes. The cooling time is another 10-20 minutes and then I promptly refrigerate any unused portion. I then took some of the cooked turkey and mixed in the Comfort product - either canine or feline, depending upon species - and this added a different kind of fiber. I alternated this mix with the pumpkin for the kittens - it worked great for Pearl.
I, along with my vet, thought Lulu had Giardia. I found that giving the herbal supplement and then the skullcap supplement stopped the diarrhea within two days, along with the food choices from above.
The comfort products also work exceptionally well for vomiting. I suggest that if your kitty has hairballs, add a little pumpkin to their food. If you use the ground turkey, be sure to have a mix of white and dark meat, there's a bit more fat to help hairballs.
I have also heard great results with this diet for animals on chemotherapy and radiation. Again, use distilled water to help clear toxins.
If you cook once week, like me, take 20-30 minutes out of your day and cook for your pet. I put enough food for four days in a plastic container. I freeze the remainder of the cooked turkey (I add the other ingredients once it is unfrozen) in small containers and take them out as I need them.
Cooking for your pet really is easy and it makes treating difficult problems so much easier!
Julee Roth has been a life-long animal lover and pet industry veteran with over 12 years experience helping people and their pets. Hundreds of thousands of puppies, kittens, cats and dogs have benefited from her advice and well chosen pet products. To ask her for more pet advice, visit her web site, http://www.ChoicePetProducts.com
Nothing is more frustrating than a pet with diarrhea or constant vomiting - I know, I have experienced these messy problems for one long month. I adopted two kittens from a large chain pet store. No more than 15 minutes into our journey home, adorable little Lulu had diarrhea. I thought it was related to the car ride, but after a few days of scooping wet, runny poop from both kittens I knew this was a health issue.
I took the kittens to the vet, and even though they may have been given shots, my vet suggested they were too young and not properly immunized. I told him about their diarrhea - they had very healthy appetites and were drinking water. My vet gave them their shots, prescribed medication and home we went.
The medication was difficult to give and it didn't seem to help. I put canned pumpkin in their food. It didn't really help. I added psyllium. It didn't help. I went online and began some research. And I found Vitality Sciences - a company founded in 1991 to help people with GI problems.
I read their research, I read their testimonials then I called and ordered the feline diarrhea vomiting combo. Because I didn't have a specific cause of the problem, I needed to try a few product combinations. Within the week Pearl had normal stools. Lulu, the other kitten, took a bit longer to treat but is now diarrhea free. So for treatment resistant diarrhea or vomiting, these six products can be combined to fight the infection, cure the disease and get your pet back into health. See the specific products at www.ChoicePetProducts.com.
So what did I do for their food? I cooked for them, of course! I found that they like the Shelton brand of frozen minced turkey the best. I add enough distilled water (buy it at the grocery - especially if your pet may have Giardia) to completely cover the thawed turkey. I cook the turkey until the juices run clear. This is the experimental part and it works for most dogs and cats.
For diarrhea, I started with 1 Tablespoon of canned organic pumpkin to one cup of cooked turkey. For dogs, you may want to add 1/2 cup cooked long grain rice. I fed 1 tablespoon of this food to my kittens and about 2 tablespoons to my adult male cat three times a day. (My adult male loves plain turkey and hated the pumpkin after a while.) I fed a small amount of dry food and clean, distilled water is out all day. Once the turkey is thawed (properly, please, no need to give food poisoning on top of other GI problems) the cooking time is about 10-12 minutes. The cooling time is another 10-20 minutes and then I promptly refrigerate any unused portion. I then took some of the cooked turkey and mixed in the Comfort product - either canine or feline, depending upon species - and this added a different kind of fiber. I alternated this mix with the pumpkin for the kittens - it worked great for Pearl.
I, along with my vet, thought Lulu had Giardia. I found that giving the herbal supplement and then the skullcap supplement stopped the diarrhea within two days, along with the food choices from above.
The comfort products also work exceptionally well for vomiting. I suggest that if your kitty has hairballs, add a little pumpkin to their food. If you use the ground turkey, be sure to have a mix of white and dark meat, there's a bit more fat to help hairballs.
I have also heard great results with this diet for animals on chemotherapy and radiation. Again, use distilled water to help clear toxins.
If you cook once week, like me, take 20-30 minutes out of your day and cook for your pet. I put enough food for four days in a plastic container. I freeze the remainder of the cooked turkey (I add the other ingredients once it is unfrozen) in small containers and take them out as I need them.
Cooking for your pet really is easy and it makes treating difficult problems so much easier!
Julee Roth has been a life-long animal lover and pet industry veteran with over 12 years experience helping people and their pets. Hundreds of thousands of puppies, kittens, cats and dogs have benefited from her advice and well chosen pet products. To ask her for more pet advice, visit her web site, http://www.ChoicePetProducts.com
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
Family Pets - 7 Tips for Choosing an Age-Appropriate Family Pet
By Hilary Basile
Even though your kids want a pet and promise to take care of it, it doesn't necessarily mean they are mature enough to handle the responsibilities of pet ownership. Pets offer companionship and teach children important life lessons about friendship and responsibility, however, some pets are better than others for certain ages and lifestyles. Following are 7 tips for choosing an age-appropriate pet for your family:
Choose a social pet Consider choosing an animal that has already been socialized and knows how to behave around children, such as an older cat or a dog with a history of getting along well with young children. Families with small children should be wary of bringing home a new puppy or kitten since baby animals require extra care and are more prone to scratching and playful biting.
Learn about breeds. Using dogs as an example, it's important to know that some breeds, such as Golden Retrievers and Labrador Retrievers, are traditionally gentle and friendly and, thus, offer a great choice for families with small children. Find information on different breeds online or at the library. Ask veterinarians or friends with similar pets about their experiences. Determine if you can accommodate the type of pet based on their exercise, space and attention requirements.
Practice first. If you have never owned a dog before, be sure to do a trial run with a relative or a friend's dog before committing to the real deal. This way, you can make sure your kids are capable of tackling the responsibilities of caring for a pet.
Teach behavior. Show your kids how to act appropriately around animals, such as how to handle their new pet without squeezing, dropping, or disturbing the animal. Remind them to always wash their hands after handling any animal. Never leave a small child alone with a dog or cat until you know the pet is trained to stay calm. Remind children to ask the owner before approaching animals they don't know.
Consider your schedule. Think about how much space you have inside and outside your home to accommodate a pet, how often you are home, and if you have time to devote to feeding, walking and cleaning up after a pet. This will help you determine if you want a pet that needs a lot of attention, or if you want a pet that requires minimal interaction. Also consider any allergies of family members before bringing a pet home.
Be prepared. Discuss the pet's needs and type of care required and try to have all the equipment ready in your home before the new pet arrives.
Clean up potential hazards. When bringing a pet into your home, you will need to pet-proof it as you have childproofed your home, such as removing plants that are poisonous if ingested and securing electrical cords so the pet won't chew on them.
Following are age-appropriate pet recommendations:
Ages 3 to 5: Consider a guinea pig for preschoolers. Guinea pigs are gentle, like to be held and rarely bite.
Ages 6 to 10: Consider "shelf pets" for elementary-age kids, such as fish, mice, hamsters and gerbils.
Ages 10 to 13: Consider rabbits, dogs and cats for tweens.
Ages 14 and up: Consider a bird or fish for teenagers. These low maintenance options are great for older kids who are busy with school and extracurricular activities.
Following are age-appropriate pet chores:
Ages 3 to 6: Play with the pet while supervised, help pick up pet toys and wipe up spills caused by the pet.
Ages 7 to 10: Feed and brush the pet. If the pet is a dog, this age group can help walk the dog.
Ages 10 and up: Clean a cage, walk a dog, empty a litter box, bathe a pet and help give medications.
Hilary Basile is a writer for MyGuidesUSA.com at http://www.myguidesusa.com, you will find valuable tips and resources for handling life's major events. Whether you're planning a wedding, buying your first home, anxiously awaiting the birth of a child, contending with a divorce, searching for a new job, or planning for your retirement, you'll find answers to your questions at MyGuidesUSA.com
Find parenting tips and resources at http://becomingaparent.myguidesusa.com
Even though your kids want a pet and promise to take care of it, it doesn't necessarily mean they are mature enough to handle the responsibilities of pet ownership. Pets offer companionship and teach children important life lessons about friendship and responsibility, however, some pets are better than others for certain ages and lifestyles. Following are 7 tips for choosing an age-appropriate pet for your family:
Choose a social pet Consider choosing an animal that has already been socialized and knows how to behave around children, such as an older cat or a dog with a history of getting along well with young children. Families with small children should be wary of bringing home a new puppy or kitten since baby animals require extra care and are more prone to scratching and playful biting.
Learn about breeds. Using dogs as an example, it's important to know that some breeds, such as Golden Retrievers and Labrador Retrievers, are traditionally gentle and friendly and, thus, offer a great choice for families with small children. Find information on different breeds online or at the library. Ask veterinarians or friends with similar pets about their experiences. Determine if you can accommodate the type of pet based on their exercise, space and attention requirements.
Practice first. If you have never owned a dog before, be sure to do a trial run with a relative or a friend's dog before committing to the real deal. This way, you can make sure your kids are capable of tackling the responsibilities of caring for a pet.
Teach behavior. Show your kids how to act appropriately around animals, such as how to handle their new pet without squeezing, dropping, or disturbing the animal. Remind them to always wash their hands after handling any animal. Never leave a small child alone with a dog or cat until you know the pet is trained to stay calm. Remind children to ask the owner before approaching animals they don't know.
Consider your schedule. Think about how much space you have inside and outside your home to accommodate a pet, how often you are home, and if you have time to devote to feeding, walking and cleaning up after a pet. This will help you determine if you want a pet that needs a lot of attention, or if you want a pet that requires minimal interaction. Also consider any allergies of family members before bringing a pet home.
Be prepared. Discuss the pet's needs and type of care required and try to have all the equipment ready in your home before the new pet arrives.
Clean up potential hazards. When bringing a pet into your home, you will need to pet-proof it as you have childproofed your home, such as removing plants that are poisonous if ingested and securing electrical cords so the pet won't chew on them.
Following are age-appropriate pet recommendations:
Ages 3 to 5: Consider a guinea pig for preschoolers. Guinea pigs are gentle, like to be held and rarely bite.
Ages 6 to 10: Consider "shelf pets" for elementary-age kids, such as fish, mice, hamsters and gerbils.
Ages 10 to 13: Consider rabbits, dogs and cats for tweens.
Ages 14 and up: Consider a bird or fish for teenagers. These low maintenance options are great for older kids who are busy with school and extracurricular activities.
Following are age-appropriate pet chores:
Ages 3 to 6: Play with the pet while supervised, help pick up pet toys and wipe up spills caused by the pet.
Ages 7 to 10: Feed and brush the pet. If the pet is a dog, this age group can help walk the dog.
Ages 10 and up: Clean a cage, walk a dog, empty a litter box, bathe a pet and help give medications.
Hilary Basile is a writer for MyGuidesUSA.com at http://www.myguidesusa.com, you will find valuable tips and resources for handling life's major events. Whether you're planning a wedding, buying your first home, anxiously awaiting the birth of a child, contending with a divorce, searching for a new job, or planning for your retirement, you'll find answers to your questions at MyGuidesUSA.com
Find parenting tips and resources at http://becomingaparent.myguidesusa.com
Sunday, February 17, 2008
Holistic and Natural Pet Care - What Does It Really Mean?
By Eleanor Van Natta
Aristotle was talking about holism when he said that "the whole is more than the sum of its parts". Holistic and natural pet care means that you take into account the physical, mental, and emotional well being and health when treating or preventing disease in your pets. What this looks like in practice is that you do not just try to fix individual symptoms when treating disease but instead take into account any number of factors of physical, mental, and emotional nature; its like looking at the individual trees without losing sight of the forest. For example, a horse with ulcers doesn't just need a "band-aid" for the ulcers themselves but perhaps needs to be fed more often (their gut constantly secrets acid because they were designed to forage most of the day) and/or needs to have its environment, stress load, show schedule, and training re-evaluated. The principle of holism also says, for example, that you cannot view - or treat - a horse's hooves as being separate from its body. And your dog doesn't just have skin problems - he may have food allergies, be under a lot of stress, etc.
The short and simple definition of holistic comes from Websters:
holistic - 1 : of or relating to holism
2 : relating to or concerned with wholes or with complete systems rather than with the analysis of, treatment of, or dissection into parts
Because of my experiences over the years with my horse and various other pets, I have come to the conclusion that when it comes to health, you really need to know at least a little bit about a lot of things - as well as have a team assembled of experts in their respective fields. For example, the farrier may point out something that the veterinarian missed (and vice versa), and some people specialize in certain areas that could be helpful to you and your horse. I have learned that relying exclusively on your veterinarian or anyone else for a certain problem is all too often a very narrow view and disappointing path to take. Chances are, there is something or someone that you have not tried yet in your quest to solve a health challenge. Not every creature responds to the same medicine or the same approach, and sometimes you just need to try a few different things or combinations of things. And just because it is holistic or natural or alternative doesn't mean that it will necessarily be the answer either. Once I had an acupuncture treatment done on my horse, and she hated it and even had to be twitched - which we both really disliked (and I regret that I did not stand up for my horse and not allow the twitch).
I cannot stress enough the importance of assembling a good team of knowledgeable, caring individuals to help you and your equine friends. To find a holistic veterinarian, check out the American Holistic Veterinarian Association AHVMA. The AHVMA site is a great resource for an overview on holistic medicine. Even if you do not have a holistic veterinarian located near you, many of them will do telephone consults as well as coordinate care with your local veterinarian.
Additionally, you should read - pet care books by well respected holistic veterinarians and other practitioners are a good start. Arm yourself with information, and learn all you can about what your horse, dog, cat, or other pet needs and wants both physically and emotionally. Know what that animal would do, be, eat, and have in the wild state - in nature. There are some good documentaries and videos on this topic as well as informative books. Our pets have adapted to domesticated life but usually not without some kind of ill-effects. If you know the wild dog, and you know your dog (personality, sensitivities, etc), then it can be easier to figure out what is out of balance and try to bring it back into balance or close to it. You probably cannot give your horse a herd of horses to roam with, or your dog a large pack, but there are a lot of other things that you can do.
Finally, it is vital when coordinating care for your pet that you don't forget to give a voice to your gut instincts and that you are not intimidated by those with higher degrees or more experience; no one has the same degree of bond with your animal as you do. Not being intimidated is very often easier said than done, depending upon your personality, but you may save yourself - and your pet- a lot of heartache and disease if you do.
Eleanor D Van Natta http://www.sagebynature.com
a natural horse through nature's wisdom http://sagebynature.blogspot.com/
Journey With Cody
Aristotle was talking about holism when he said that "the whole is more than the sum of its parts". Holistic and natural pet care means that you take into account the physical, mental, and emotional well being and health when treating or preventing disease in your pets. What this looks like in practice is that you do not just try to fix individual symptoms when treating disease but instead take into account any number of factors of physical, mental, and emotional nature; its like looking at the individual trees without losing sight of the forest. For example, a horse with ulcers doesn't just need a "band-aid" for the ulcers themselves but perhaps needs to be fed more often (their gut constantly secrets acid because they were designed to forage most of the day) and/or needs to have its environment, stress load, show schedule, and training re-evaluated. The principle of holism also says, for example, that you cannot view - or treat - a horse's hooves as being separate from its body. And your dog doesn't just have skin problems - he may have food allergies, be under a lot of stress, etc.
The short and simple definition of holistic comes from Websters:
holistic - 1 : of or relating to holism
2 : relating to or concerned with wholes or with complete systems rather than with the analysis of, treatment of, or dissection into parts
Because of my experiences over the years with my horse and various other pets, I have come to the conclusion that when it comes to health, you really need to know at least a little bit about a lot of things - as well as have a team assembled of experts in their respective fields. For example, the farrier may point out something that the veterinarian missed (and vice versa), and some people specialize in certain areas that could be helpful to you and your horse. I have learned that relying exclusively on your veterinarian or anyone else for a certain problem is all too often a very narrow view and disappointing path to take. Chances are, there is something or someone that you have not tried yet in your quest to solve a health challenge. Not every creature responds to the same medicine or the same approach, and sometimes you just need to try a few different things or combinations of things. And just because it is holistic or natural or alternative doesn't mean that it will necessarily be the answer either. Once I had an acupuncture treatment done on my horse, and she hated it and even had to be twitched - which we both really disliked (and I regret that I did not stand up for my horse and not allow the twitch).
I cannot stress enough the importance of assembling a good team of knowledgeable, caring individuals to help you and your equine friends. To find a holistic veterinarian, check out the American Holistic Veterinarian Association AHVMA. The AHVMA site is a great resource for an overview on holistic medicine. Even if you do not have a holistic veterinarian located near you, many of them will do telephone consults as well as coordinate care with your local veterinarian.
Additionally, you should read - pet care books by well respected holistic veterinarians and other practitioners are a good start. Arm yourself with information, and learn all you can about what your horse, dog, cat, or other pet needs and wants both physically and emotionally. Know what that animal would do, be, eat, and have in the wild state - in nature. There are some good documentaries and videos on this topic as well as informative books. Our pets have adapted to domesticated life but usually not without some kind of ill-effects. If you know the wild dog, and you know your dog (personality, sensitivities, etc), then it can be easier to figure out what is out of balance and try to bring it back into balance or close to it. You probably cannot give your horse a herd of horses to roam with, or your dog a large pack, but there are a lot of other things that you can do.
Finally, it is vital when coordinating care for your pet that you don't forget to give a voice to your gut instincts and that you are not intimidated by those with higher degrees or more experience; no one has the same degree of bond with your animal as you do. Not being intimidated is very often easier said than done, depending upon your personality, but you may save yourself - and your pet- a lot of heartache and disease if you do.
Eleanor D Van Natta http://www.sagebynature.com
a natural horse through nature's wisdom http://sagebynature.blogspot.com/
Journey With Cody
Friday, February 15, 2008
Pet Vitamins - Three Important Questions
By Gary Le Mon
A dozen generations ago when pet vitamins were unheard of, this good earth was a veritable victory garden. The air was clean, water pure, soil rich with nutrients.
Today the world is different.
Corporate farms coax crops from barren soil using chemicals and pesticides. Food processing conglomerates replace any remaining nourishment with salt, sugar, artificial flavors and preservatives. Humans and animals subsist on a diet of lifeless inert matter in brightly adorned packaging that we call food only because we're brainwashed into eating it... and feeding it to our pets.
But you are to be congratulated. Here you are on the Internet searching for answers. Odds are, if your dog or cat had known how to search the Internet for pet vitamins and supplements, he or she would have done so long ago.
Nobody questions that humans, animals, fish, birds, plants - all living things - need proper nutrition to grow and stay healthy. The big question is which product to put your hard-earned money on. And whose claims to believe.
Here are the three most important questions to ask when searching for natural pet vitamins. We thought you should know the inside scoop because the decisions you make for your best friends are too important for guesswork.
First, how long have the people behind the pet vitamin formula been around?
Many newcomers to the pet supplement arena have not stood the test of time. Many hope to sell their products to inexperienced dog and cat owners who don't know better. A track record of 5 to 10 years is good; 20 or more even better. For over 34 years the makers of my favorite brand have developed products that provide the best form, balance and potency possible.
Second, why should I believe the claims made by pet vitamin and mineral supplement makers?
Some vitamins for pets contain ingredients that are of no value or cannot be assimilated by the animal's system. Some formulations are not laboratory tested to dissolve before being eliminated from the animal's system.
Look for formulations that optimally produce both preventative and therapeutic results. Make sure active components are combined, as they are in nature, for optimal effectiveness. Check to see that after development, all formulations are evaluated and appraised by veterinarians. Buy only formulations with ingredients that are guaranteed to conform to the highest standard of quality, purity, and potency for maximum utilization by the animal's body. Finally, choose only products that have passed sophisticated laboratory testing before the product is approved for your purchase.
Third, will they stand behind their products with a money-back guarantee?
The correct answer must be a resounding Yes! Skip over any formulation that is not guaranteed to meet your complete satisfaction or your money back! The makers of the highest quality pet vitamins must have enough confidence in their product to offer a money-back guarantee with no hassle, no questions asked. If you're not happy, how can any ethical pet healthcare supplier be happy?
So which pet vitamin/mineral formula do I use and recommend? It's called DailySure. Thanks for asking. DailySure Gary Le Mon's day job is in the insured financial services industry, but his evenings and weekends are spent crusading for animal rights, promoting pet health care and making the Earth a greener, friendlier place to live. See also TripleSure
A dozen generations ago when pet vitamins were unheard of, this good earth was a veritable victory garden. The air was clean, water pure, soil rich with nutrients.
Today the world is different.
Corporate farms coax crops from barren soil using chemicals and pesticides. Food processing conglomerates replace any remaining nourishment with salt, sugar, artificial flavors and preservatives. Humans and animals subsist on a diet of lifeless inert matter in brightly adorned packaging that we call food only because we're brainwashed into eating it... and feeding it to our pets.
But you are to be congratulated. Here you are on the Internet searching for answers. Odds are, if your dog or cat had known how to search the Internet for pet vitamins and supplements, he or she would have done so long ago.
Nobody questions that humans, animals, fish, birds, plants - all living things - need proper nutrition to grow and stay healthy. The big question is which product to put your hard-earned money on. And whose claims to believe.
Here are the three most important questions to ask when searching for natural pet vitamins. We thought you should know the inside scoop because the decisions you make for your best friends are too important for guesswork.
First, how long have the people behind the pet vitamin formula been around?
Many newcomers to the pet supplement arena have not stood the test of time. Many hope to sell their products to inexperienced dog and cat owners who don't know better. A track record of 5 to 10 years is good; 20 or more even better. For over 34 years the makers of my favorite brand have developed products that provide the best form, balance and potency possible.
Second, why should I believe the claims made by pet vitamin and mineral supplement makers?
Some vitamins for pets contain ingredients that are of no value or cannot be assimilated by the animal's system. Some formulations are not laboratory tested to dissolve before being eliminated from the animal's system.
Look for formulations that optimally produce both preventative and therapeutic results. Make sure active components are combined, as they are in nature, for optimal effectiveness. Check to see that after development, all formulations are evaluated and appraised by veterinarians. Buy only formulations with ingredients that are guaranteed to conform to the highest standard of quality, purity, and potency for maximum utilization by the animal's body. Finally, choose only products that have passed sophisticated laboratory testing before the product is approved for your purchase.
Third, will they stand behind their products with a money-back guarantee?
The correct answer must be a resounding Yes! Skip over any formulation that is not guaranteed to meet your complete satisfaction or your money back! The makers of the highest quality pet vitamins must have enough confidence in their product to offer a money-back guarantee with no hassle, no questions asked. If you're not happy, how can any ethical pet healthcare supplier be happy?
So which pet vitamin/mineral formula do I use and recommend? It's called DailySure. Thanks for asking. DailySure Gary Le Mon's day job is in the insured financial services industry, but his evenings and weekends are spent crusading for animal rights, promoting pet health care and making the Earth a greener, friendlier place to live. See also TripleSure
Wednesday, February 13, 2008
4 Training Collar Options - How to Decide
By Paul J Easton
Many dog owners find that their efforts toward training their pet are greatly aided by the use of a training collar. There are many types of collars available and each employs a different way to guide your pet, restrain him or discourage bad or disobedient behavior.
Some training collars can harm a dog if they are not used appropriately or are the wrong size; so, you should research training collars thoroughly before choosing one.
Some common dog training collars are: the prong collar, the Halti, the Gentle Leader, the choke collar and the electronic collar.
Prong Collar
This collar is made up of metal prongs that have been linked together. When you apply a pulling pressure to the collar (via the leash), it gives the dog a little pinch that is meant to duplicate the effect of a mother dog's teeth when she grabs here pup by the scruff of the neck.
The prong collar is a safe and effective training tool as long as the fit is correct and the collar is used appropriately. The prong collar should not be used if your dog is one to consistently yank at his leash.
The prong collar should fit snugly against the dog's neck. A properly fitted collar should leave approximately � of a finger space in between your dog's neck and the prong tip. A collar that is any looser than that won't do its job and will needlessly chafe the dog's skin.
Halti and Gentle Leader
Both the Halti and Gentle Leader head halter devices look a lot like the harnesses that are used to control horses. While the prong collar is designed to condition behavior and movement, the head halter is designed to restrict or restrain your dog's movements. The thought behind the halter's design is that if you can control the head, the body will follow its movement.
When you pull on the attached leash the device closes the dog's mouth and restrains his head. These types of collars are great for dogs that lunge, bite or display other aggressive behaviors.
There are drawbacks, however, to using a head halter device. Most dogs will not take very easily to any device that positions a strap over its nose. You may have to struggle with your dog many, many times before he will submit to wearing it.
Another drawback is that pulling at your dog's head makes it a lot more likely that you'll inadvertently injure the dog's neck or back. To avoid injury, you should always make sure you're restraining your dog in the correct manner.
Choke Collar
The choke collar is one of those dog training devices that is often surrounded by controversy. Proponents of the choke collar point to its humane effectiveness, while critics say that the collar is more torture device than training tool. The truth is that what the collar becomes is largely dependent upon who is using it.
A properly fitted choke collar works by tightening around the dog's throat when the trainer pulls on the leash and then releasing pressure when the trainer does. If the collar is not put on correctly, however, the pressure will remain and the dog could truly choke to death. These collars are not meant for dogs that consistently pull at their leash or for inexperienced trainers. As is the case with head halters, the choke collar has the potential to cause injury to the dog's neck.
Electronic Collar
Just mention the option of an electronic dog collar and many dog owners (even some people with no pets at all) will look at you as if you have suggested training your dog with a stun gun.
The reality is that electronic collars can be a very humane way to train a dog. As with any other training device, however, whether or not it is used for purposes of cruelty is totally dependent upon the intentions and experience of the trainer.
The electronic collar works by allowing the trainer to give the dog small, electric shocks (via remote control) in order to modify its behavior. The intensity of the shock is left to the trainer. In general, the setting should be strong enough to make the dog's ears twitch. If the dog howls or yelps when the shock is delivered, then the setting is too high. Again, the electronic collar should only be used by experienced trainers.
Paul Easton is The owner of http://www.JustDogclothes.com
A Dog Clothes, Clothing and T-shirts online store - 2500 designs with the best possible prices available
Many dog owners find that their efforts toward training their pet are greatly aided by the use of a training collar. There are many types of collars available and each employs a different way to guide your pet, restrain him or discourage bad or disobedient behavior.
Some training collars can harm a dog if they are not used appropriately or are the wrong size; so, you should research training collars thoroughly before choosing one.
Some common dog training collars are: the prong collar, the Halti, the Gentle Leader, the choke collar and the electronic collar.
Prong Collar
This collar is made up of metal prongs that have been linked together. When you apply a pulling pressure to the collar (via the leash), it gives the dog a little pinch that is meant to duplicate the effect of a mother dog's teeth when she grabs here pup by the scruff of the neck.
The prong collar is a safe and effective training tool as long as the fit is correct and the collar is used appropriately. The prong collar should not be used if your dog is one to consistently yank at his leash.
The prong collar should fit snugly against the dog's neck. A properly fitted collar should leave approximately � of a finger space in between your dog's neck and the prong tip. A collar that is any looser than that won't do its job and will needlessly chafe the dog's skin.
Halti and Gentle Leader
Both the Halti and Gentle Leader head halter devices look a lot like the harnesses that are used to control horses. While the prong collar is designed to condition behavior and movement, the head halter is designed to restrict or restrain your dog's movements. The thought behind the halter's design is that if you can control the head, the body will follow its movement.
When you pull on the attached leash the device closes the dog's mouth and restrains his head. These types of collars are great for dogs that lunge, bite or display other aggressive behaviors.
There are drawbacks, however, to using a head halter device. Most dogs will not take very easily to any device that positions a strap over its nose. You may have to struggle with your dog many, many times before he will submit to wearing it.
Another drawback is that pulling at your dog's head makes it a lot more likely that you'll inadvertently injure the dog's neck or back. To avoid injury, you should always make sure you're restraining your dog in the correct manner.
Choke Collar
The choke collar is one of those dog training devices that is often surrounded by controversy. Proponents of the choke collar point to its humane effectiveness, while critics say that the collar is more torture device than training tool. The truth is that what the collar becomes is largely dependent upon who is using it.
A properly fitted choke collar works by tightening around the dog's throat when the trainer pulls on the leash and then releasing pressure when the trainer does. If the collar is not put on correctly, however, the pressure will remain and the dog could truly choke to death. These collars are not meant for dogs that consistently pull at their leash or for inexperienced trainers. As is the case with head halters, the choke collar has the potential to cause injury to the dog's neck.
Electronic Collar
Just mention the option of an electronic dog collar and many dog owners (even some people with no pets at all) will look at you as if you have suggested training your dog with a stun gun.
The reality is that electronic collars can be a very humane way to train a dog. As with any other training device, however, whether or not it is used for purposes of cruelty is totally dependent upon the intentions and experience of the trainer.
The electronic collar works by allowing the trainer to give the dog small, electric shocks (via remote control) in order to modify its behavior. The intensity of the shock is left to the trainer. In general, the setting should be strong enough to make the dog's ears twitch. If the dog howls or yelps when the shock is delivered, then the setting is too high. Again, the electronic collar should only be used by experienced trainers.
Paul Easton is The owner of http://www.JustDogclothes.com
A Dog Clothes, Clothing and T-shirts online store - 2500 designs with the best possible prices available
Monday, February 11, 2008
Are Pet Food Feeding Trials Essential?
By John Birch
In the course of a year several new dog and cat food products will be launched onto the UK pet food market. Some of these will be manufactured by the big boys, Masterfoods or Nestle Purina, who will conduct scientific feeding trials, but others come from small companies who really are just marketing and distributing - they have no manufacturing facilities and make use of independent manufacturers who produce food for anyone. Several well known and well advertised UK brands and a host of smaller brands are produced centrally and simply distributed by the brand owners.
Small companies cannot afford the luxury of Research & Development facilities, they also do not have the facilities to do their own pet food feeding trials. Let's face it, they are up against the might of the Waltham centre for Pet Nutrition operated by the company that brings you Pedigree, Royal Canin and the like. Their publicity states
'Set in the heart of the English countryside, the Waltham Centre for Pet Nutrition is a state-of-the-art facility that unifies all of the research and development expertise of the Mars group of pet care companies worldwide.
Waltham collaborates with many of the world's most prestigious universities and academics in advancing nutritional research and worldwide the Mars Group employs more than 100 dedicated veterinarians and 500 scientists (plus several of the world's leading companion animal nutritionists).'
No small company can compete with the might of such a multi-national company.
So is the pet food I feed safe?
That's an interesting question! Large pet food companies can afford the facilities of a testing centre, so what goes on there?
Well, the rules for conducting feeding trials seem to be all based around AAFCO guidelines.
Masterfoods say this about their feeding trials 'Adult maintenance trials may take six months to complete. A full veterinary examination is also conducted to ensure the pets used in the trial are healthy. Food intakes and body weights are recorded throughout the trial period along with other important indicators such as oral health, skin and coat health, body condition and faecal quality.
'At the conclusion of the trial a blood sample is taken to detect any nutritional deficiencies or excesses. As a further measure to assess palatability, in home feeding trials are conducted as we have access to approximately 8,000 households. This ensures we get a true reflection of pets' acceptance and preference of the product range. Some pet food products may take up to three years to develop because of this rigorous three-step testing process.'
What about a small company?
You will probably find that small companies tell you that they do not conduct feeding trials because they do not consider them necessary - usually a new food is given to staff and family to try out on their pets. If there are no adverse comments from users over a four or six week period then the food is launched to the general public.
This can work out fine, but essentially they are using pet owners around the country to do their long term food trials. I know of ocassions where a food has been launched in this way and then caused health problems that were not picked up during the initial food tasting.
However, it also has to be said that all new pet food recipes have their origin at feeding trials which have been done in the past. The AAFCO nutritional guidlines have been used for years as the base figures for formulating pet food recipes, and you or I could probably put together a fine quality pet food based upon those guidlines - but we have to bear in mind that these were established through nutritional feeding trials, and have been ammended no doubt since based upon current knowledge.
For this reason, unless a recipe is using very novel ingredients, or formulated with proportions of ingredients that vary greatly from other foods on the market, it is generally assumed that these foods will be perfectly safe for the pets that they have been created for.
So, maybe pet owners do need to ask themselves a question. If I am trying a new pet food, am I happy that this food has been extensively trialled over a period of 6 months to 2 years and proved by scientific methods to be beneficial to health - or am I comfortable that a food has been formulated to a similar recipe to others on the market, given out to a dozen or so pet owners and over a short period of time no adverse comments made?
The choice is ours!
The author, who originally trained as a food technologist has, in his time owned dogs, cats, hamsters and birds, sold pet food and spent the past decade marketing it. Now down to one cat, one dog and running Pet Food Choice, a website full of information on pet food choices, money-saving ideas and much more - http://www.pet-food-choice.co.uk
In the course of a year several new dog and cat food products will be launched onto the UK pet food market. Some of these will be manufactured by the big boys, Masterfoods or Nestle Purina, who will conduct scientific feeding trials, but others come from small companies who really are just marketing and distributing - they have no manufacturing facilities and make use of independent manufacturers who produce food for anyone. Several well known and well advertised UK brands and a host of smaller brands are produced centrally and simply distributed by the brand owners.
Small companies cannot afford the luxury of Research & Development facilities, they also do not have the facilities to do their own pet food feeding trials. Let's face it, they are up against the might of the Waltham centre for Pet Nutrition operated by the company that brings you Pedigree, Royal Canin and the like. Their publicity states
'Set in the heart of the English countryside, the Waltham Centre for Pet Nutrition is a state-of-the-art facility that unifies all of the research and development expertise of the Mars group of pet care companies worldwide.
Waltham collaborates with many of the world's most prestigious universities and academics in advancing nutritional research and worldwide the Mars Group employs more than 100 dedicated veterinarians and 500 scientists (plus several of the world's leading companion animal nutritionists).'
No small company can compete with the might of such a multi-national company.
So is the pet food I feed safe?
That's an interesting question! Large pet food companies can afford the facilities of a testing centre, so what goes on there?
Well, the rules for conducting feeding trials seem to be all based around AAFCO guidelines.
Masterfoods say this about their feeding trials 'Adult maintenance trials may take six months to complete. A full veterinary examination is also conducted to ensure the pets used in the trial are healthy. Food intakes and body weights are recorded throughout the trial period along with other important indicators such as oral health, skin and coat health, body condition and faecal quality.
'At the conclusion of the trial a blood sample is taken to detect any nutritional deficiencies or excesses. As a further measure to assess palatability, in home feeding trials are conducted as we have access to approximately 8,000 households. This ensures we get a true reflection of pets' acceptance and preference of the product range. Some pet food products may take up to three years to develop because of this rigorous three-step testing process.'
What about a small company?
You will probably find that small companies tell you that they do not conduct feeding trials because they do not consider them necessary - usually a new food is given to staff and family to try out on their pets. If there are no adverse comments from users over a four or six week period then the food is launched to the general public.
This can work out fine, but essentially they are using pet owners around the country to do their long term food trials. I know of ocassions where a food has been launched in this way and then caused health problems that were not picked up during the initial food tasting.
However, it also has to be said that all new pet food recipes have their origin at feeding trials which have been done in the past. The AAFCO nutritional guidlines have been used for years as the base figures for formulating pet food recipes, and you or I could probably put together a fine quality pet food based upon those guidlines - but we have to bear in mind that these were established through nutritional feeding trials, and have been ammended no doubt since based upon current knowledge.
For this reason, unless a recipe is using very novel ingredients, or formulated with proportions of ingredients that vary greatly from other foods on the market, it is generally assumed that these foods will be perfectly safe for the pets that they have been created for.
So, maybe pet owners do need to ask themselves a question. If I am trying a new pet food, am I happy that this food has been extensively trialled over a period of 6 months to 2 years and proved by scientific methods to be beneficial to health - or am I comfortable that a food has been formulated to a similar recipe to others on the market, given out to a dozen or so pet owners and over a short period of time no adverse comments made?
The choice is ours!
The author, who originally trained as a food technologist has, in his time owned dogs, cats, hamsters and birds, sold pet food and spent the past decade marketing it. Now down to one cat, one dog and running Pet Food Choice, a website full of information on pet food choices, money-saving ideas and much more - http://www.pet-food-choice.co.uk
Saturday, February 9, 2008
Is Pet Insurance Worth It?
By Amanda K. Jones
Believe it or not-but pet insurance is the most claimed-for type of insurance, more so than homeowners or auto insurance. Even so, the whole idea is pretty new to American pet owners. Less than 1 percent of 163 million cats and dogs in the United States are covered by a health insurance policy. In the United Kingdom and other European countries, 20-50 percent of the pet population has coverage.
Consumer Reports Isn't Always Right
Many pet owners wonder if investing in pet insurance is "worth it." An as alternative, some people advise to simply open a separate savings account for your pet's medical expenses. That way, if you don't end up needing the money for expensive vet bills you could spend it on something else-like a vacation to Hawaii.
For example, an article published in 2003 by Consumer Reports says, "The most important thing you need to know about pet insurance is that it is a form of enforced savings that almost never covers the entire bill. You can accomplish the same thing by paying the same monthly premium to your savings account."
I have to disagree that it can accomplish, "the same thing."
Yes, the purpose of any insurance is to cover future unknown risks. But you'll never know which is the better option until after the fact.
Although saving money is always a good idea, how long will it take you to save $3000, $5000, $7000? What if you're faced with a medical emergency and you don't have enough money saved up yet? I can guarantee that your pet isn't going to wait to get sick or injured!
$5000-$7000 is NOT an over-exaggeration of the kind of expenses you might encounter if your pet needs to visit a veterinary specialist or develops a chronic medical condition like diabetes, seizures, or thyroid disease.
Just Punch the Numbers
If you saved $50 a month it would take a little less than 10 years to save $7000 depending on the interest rate for your savings account. Depending on the pet insurance policy you choose, from the first day your policy is effective and for the same $50 a month you could receive $7,000-$14,000 per incident or even $100,000 for multiple lifetime incidents.
Even if by some miracle you have an extra $7,000 laying around to immediately fund your pet's savings account, your savings will be dwindled down to near zero once your pet experiences one serious medical incident. Then what?
Avoid Benefit Schedules
There are many factors to consider when evaluating the different types of pet insurance policies available. But one of the most important is whether or not the company uses a benefit schedule to reimburse claims. What this means is, regardless of the total cost of treatment, the policy will only pay up to a set figure (not a percentage) per condition.
You're much better off looking for a policy that covers a certain percentage of the claim (usually 80% or higher) based on the actual cost of the procedure and where you live. This takes into account the higher fees you're more likely to encounter at an emergency or specialty clinic and you never have to worry about inflation.
Many pet parents have discovered (to their disappointment) that the benefit schedules currently being offered by pet insurance companies have not been adjusted to take into account the recent inflation associated with veterinary expenses.
The fact is, your pet will likely require costly medical care at some point in its life. What would you do if your pet needed sudden medical attention, such as a trip to the emergency clinic, or was diagnosed with a chronic condition such as diabetes?
Both of these could easily cost $2500 or more. Would this cost cause you financial hardship? If you answered yes, then pet insurance would probably be worth it to you.
Some people believe that pet insurance is just another way for insurance companies to get rich. However, any kind of insurance is something that you have--but hope you never need to use. You just never know when you're going to need it. I've seen pet insurance save the lives of pets who otherwise would have been euthanized because of expensive medical bills.
You can't put a price on that.
� Amanda K. Jones, LVT
Amanda K. Jones is a consumer watchdog for the pet care industry and has worked as a licensed veterinary technician for the past eight years. Her latest report, "The Five Worst Pet Products I've Ever Seen" probably won't attract many corporate sponsors, but will certainly make pet owners think twice about using these popular products. For more information on Amanda and her report please visit http://www.amandakjones.com
Believe it or not-but pet insurance is the most claimed-for type of insurance, more so than homeowners or auto insurance. Even so, the whole idea is pretty new to American pet owners. Less than 1 percent of 163 million cats and dogs in the United States are covered by a health insurance policy. In the United Kingdom and other European countries, 20-50 percent of the pet population has coverage.
Consumer Reports Isn't Always Right
Many pet owners wonder if investing in pet insurance is "worth it." An as alternative, some people advise to simply open a separate savings account for your pet's medical expenses. That way, if you don't end up needing the money for expensive vet bills you could spend it on something else-like a vacation to Hawaii.
For example, an article published in 2003 by Consumer Reports says, "The most important thing you need to know about pet insurance is that it is a form of enforced savings that almost never covers the entire bill. You can accomplish the same thing by paying the same monthly premium to your savings account."
I have to disagree that it can accomplish, "the same thing."
Yes, the purpose of any insurance is to cover future unknown risks. But you'll never know which is the better option until after the fact.
Although saving money is always a good idea, how long will it take you to save $3000, $5000, $7000? What if you're faced with a medical emergency and you don't have enough money saved up yet? I can guarantee that your pet isn't going to wait to get sick or injured!
$5000-$7000 is NOT an over-exaggeration of the kind of expenses you might encounter if your pet needs to visit a veterinary specialist or develops a chronic medical condition like diabetes, seizures, or thyroid disease.
Just Punch the Numbers
If you saved $50 a month it would take a little less than 10 years to save $7000 depending on the interest rate for your savings account. Depending on the pet insurance policy you choose, from the first day your policy is effective and for the same $50 a month you could receive $7,000-$14,000 per incident or even $100,000 for multiple lifetime incidents.
Even if by some miracle you have an extra $7,000 laying around to immediately fund your pet's savings account, your savings will be dwindled down to near zero once your pet experiences one serious medical incident. Then what?
Avoid Benefit Schedules
There are many factors to consider when evaluating the different types of pet insurance policies available. But one of the most important is whether or not the company uses a benefit schedule to reimburse claims. What this means is, regardless of the total cost of treatment, the policy will only pay up to a set figure (not a percentage) per condition.
You're much better off looking for a policy that covers a certain percentage of the claim (usually 80% or higher) based on the actual cost of the procedure and where you live. This takes into account the higher fees you're more likely to encounter at an emergency or specialty clinic and you never have to worry about inflation.
Many pet parents have discovered (to their disappointment) that the benefit schedules currently being offered by pet insurance companies have not been adjusted to take into account the recent inflation associated with veterinary expenses.
The fact is, your pet will likely require costly medical care at some point in its life. What would you do if your pet needed sudden medical attention, such as a trip to the emergency clinic, or was diagnosed with a chronic condition such as diabetes?
Both of these could easily cost $2500 or more. Would this cost cause you financial hardship? If you answered yes, then pet insurance would probably be worth it to you.
Some people believe that pet insurance is just another way for insurance companies to get rich. However, any kind of insurance is something that you have--but hope you never need to use. You just never know when you're going to need it. I've seen pet insurance save the lives of pets who otherwise would have been euthanized because of expensive medical bills.
You can't put a price on that.
� Amanda K. Jones, LVT
Amanda K. Jones is a consumer watchdog for the pet care industry and has worked as a licensed veterinary technician for the past eight years. Her latest report, "The Five Worst Pet Products I've Ever Seen" probably won't attract many corporate sponsors, but will certainly make pet owners think twice about using these popular products. For more information on Amanda and her report please visit http://www.amandakjones.com
Thursday, February 7, 2008
How To Hire A Pet Sitter
By Susan Spencer
Leaving your dog or cat at home for extended periods of time while you're traveling can be trying for both you and your pet. You don't want to inconvenience your friends or family members by asking them to care for your pet while you're gone. You could board her at the vet, but that is also stressful for her. And you worry about the exposure to the other animals that are sick. An in-home pet sitter seems like the perfect solution. However, you may not know how to go about finding one.
A good place to start looking for a sitter is the International Locator on the Pet Sitters International website. If you submit your zip code (or your country if you live outside of the US), you will get a list of pet care providers in your area. You can also specify the kind of pet you need care for and the types of service you are looking for. It's best to enter just the criteria that are the most important to you. This will produce a bigger list of care givers for you to choose from. You can then click on the names of each of the sitters to find out more about them, including their contact information.
Once you have found a pet sitter who seems to be what you are looking for, you should make arrangements for her to visit your home before you are scheduled to leave. Most sitters will do this at no charge to you. Some pet sitting services employ several sitters, so make sure that the person who is coming to your house for the interview will be the person who makes the actual pet sitting visits while you are gone. You want to make sure that it is someone with whom you are comfortable, because you will be trusting her not only with your precious pet, but also with a key to your house. You also want to observe how the person interacts with your pet. Does your pet seem to like her?
Make sure that the sitter is insured. If anything should happen while you are away, such as your dog getting loose and biting someone, you need to know that you will be covered. Some people feel more secure if the sitter is also bonded, but unless he is an employee of a pet sitting company, bonding is really not necessary.
Feel free to ask for references. If the sitter has been in business for any length of time, she should be able and willing to provide you with a couple of phone numbers or email addresses of satisfied clients for you to contact.
Have a spare key made before the interview, and have it handy when the pet sitter arrives. Then, if you decide to hire him, he will not have to make another trip to your house (most likely at your expense) to pick it up later. Some sitters require two spare keys, which is for your pet's protection as much as for the sitter's. If the sitter should accidentally lock himself out of your house during a visit, it is much faster and easier (not to mention less expensive) for him to go back to the office and get the extra key, than to have to call a locksmith.
The sitter will need a way to reach you while you are gone, as well as the phone number and address of your veterinarian, and perhaps a neighbor or a friend who may be called upon in an emergency. Make sure you have all the information on hand that the pet sitter might need in your absence. It is better to provide more information than will be needed, than for the sitter to need a bit of info in an emergency and not be able to find it.
You can do a Google search for pet sitters in your area to compare prices, but don't choose your sitter by price alone. You are trusting her with your baby and also your home. Choose someone who knows the value of the service they provide and takes her responsibility seriously.
Membership in one or more pet sitting organizations may indicate that the pet sitter is serious about his pet sitting business, but beyond that, it does not tell you a great deal. Anyone can join a pet sitting organization if they pay a fee. There is also no pet sitting license available, so if someone says they are a licensed, it merely means that they have a business license and pay their taxes.
Hiring a pet sitter is not that difficult if you know what to look for. Start your search at least several weeks before you have to leave, and you will have plenty of time to work out all the details. Your pet will thank you for it!
Susan is an animal lover and a former pet sitting business owner. She is currently owned by a Ragdoll cat, whom she adores.
Leaving your dog or cat at home for extended periods of time while you're traveling can be trying for both you and your pet. You don't want to inconvenience your friends or family members by asking them to care for your pet while you're gone. You could board her at the vet, but that is also stressful for her. And you worry about the exposure to the other animals that are sick. An in-home pet sitter seems like the perfect solution. However, you may not know how to go about finding one.
A good place to start looking for a sitter is the International Locator on the Pet Sitters International website. If you submit your zip code (or your country if you live outside of the US), you will get a list of pet care providers in your area. You can also specify the kind of pet you need care for and the types of service you are looking for. It's best to enter just the criteria that are the most important to you. This will produce a bigger list of care givers for you to choose from. You can then click on the names of each of the sitters to find out more about them, including their contact information.
Once you have found a pet sitter who seems to be what you are looking for, you should make arrangements for her to visit your home before you are scheduled to leave. Most sitters will do this at no charge to you. Some pet sitting services employ several sitters, so make sure that the person who is coming to your house for the interview will be the person who makes the actual pet sitting visits while you are gone. You want to make sure that it is someone with whom you are comfortable, because you will be trusting her not only with your precious pet, but also with a key to your house. You also want to observe how the person interacts with your pet. Does your pet seem to like her?
Make sure that the sitter is insured. If anything should happen while you are away, such as your dog getting loose and biting someone, you need to know that you will be covered. Some people feel more secure if the sitter is also bonded, but unless he is an employee of a pet sitting company, bonding is really not necessary.
Feel free to ask for references. If the sitter has been in business for any length of time, she should be able and willing to provide you with a couple of phone numbers or email addresses of satisfied clients for you to contact.
Have a spare key made before the interview, and have it handy when the pet sitter arrives. Then, if you decide to hire him, he will not have to make another trip to your house (most likely at your expense) to pick it up later. Some sitters require two spare keys, which is for your pet's protection as much as for the sitter's. If the sitter should accidentally lock himself out of your house during a visit, it is much faster and easier (not to mention less expensive) for him to go back to the office and get the extra key, than to have to call a locksmith.
The sitter will need a way to reach you while you are gone, as well as the phone number and address of your veterinarian, and perhaps a neighbor or a friend who may be called upon in an emergency. Make sure you have all the information on hand that the pet sitter might need in your absence. It is better to provide more information than will be needed, than for the sitter to need a bit of info in an emergency and not be able to find it.
You can do a Google search for pet sitters in your area to compare prices, but don't choose your sitter by price alone. You are trusting her with your baby and also your home. Choose someone who knows the value of the service they provide and takes her responsibility seriously.
Membership in one or more pet sitting organizations may indicate that the pet sitter is serious about his pet sitting business, but beyond that, it does not tell you a great deal. Anyone can join a pet sitting organization if they pay a fee. There is also no pet sitting license available, so if someone says they are a licensed, it merely means that they have a business license and pay their taxes.
Hiring a pet sitter is not that difficult if you know what to look for. Start your search at least several weeks before you have to leave, and you will have plenty of time to work out all the details. Your pet will thank you for it!
Susan is an animal lover and a former pet sitting business owner. She is currently owned by a Ragdoll cat, whom she adores.
Tuesday, February 5, 2008
Organic Pet Food For Greater Vitality
By Virginia Louise
If you are already a convert to the organic food way of life then you will already know the major benefits of eating this way:
Meat, fruit and vegetables free of chemical pesticides which can number up to 20 different types in ordinary produce; Higher concentrations of vitamins, minerals and fibre;
A much improved taste experience making eating more enjoyable and you feeling more alive and healthy than before. If you are enjoying these benefits then is it not time you offered them to your pets? Just in the same way we can opt for organic food, now you can offer a range to your pets for their approval.
What Organic Pet Food Is Available?
Taking a look around the internet you will readily see offerings for organic dog food and also, maybe to a lesser extent, organic cat food. Several suppliers are very active in organic pet foods and typically this is what they have to offer: All organic pet food products are made with human grade organic ingredients which can include: chicken and other meats, organic cereals and organic rice as well as organic vegetables.
It is stated on one site that the ingredients are exactly the grade of food that you as a human would not hesitate in consuming. After some searching you will find that what you already buy for your pet will probably be available in an organic form of some description.
Typical products available are:
Tinned organic dog food, organic kibble organic dog treats, tinned organic cat food, there is even a company that is offering organic canine cookies.However, do not be tempted to get carried away with the treats just because they are organic, remember that moderation is advised and always read the product labels.
Added Advantages
Many of these foods are also hypo-allergenic and gluten free, meaning that if your pet is suffering from allergy or digestive problems then there may just be an organic pet food solution out there that will help ease its suffering.
Virginia Louise is a convert to the organic way of life and enjoys a healthier lifestyle.
Visit her organic food web site for some free recipes and lots of helpful hints.
If you are already a convert to the organic food way of life then you will already know the major benefits of eating this way:
Meat, fruit and vegetables free of chemical pesticides which can number up to 20 different types in ordinary produce; Higher concentrations of vitamins, minerals and fibre;
A much improved taste experience making eating more enjoyable and you feeling more alive and healthy than before. If you are enjoying these benefits then is it not time you offered them to your pets? Just in the same way we can opt for organic food, now you can offer a range to your pets for their approval.
What Organic Pet Food Is Available?
Taking a look around the internet you will readily see offerings for organic dog food and also, maybe to a lesser extent, organic cat food. Several suppliers are very active in organic pet foods and typically this is what they have to offer: All organic pet food products are made with human grade organic ingredients which can include: chicken and other meats, organic cereals and organic rice as well as organic vegetables.
It is stated on one site that the ingredients are exactly the grade of food that you as a human would not hesitate in consuming. After some searching you will find that what you already buy for your pet will probably be available in an organic form of some description.
Typical products available are:
Tinned organic dog food, organic kibble organic dog treats, tinned organic cat food, there is even a company that is offering organic canine cookies.However, do not be tempted to get carried away with the treats just because they are organic, remember that moderation is advised and always read the product labels.
Added Advantages
Many of these foods are also hypo-allergenic and gluten free, meaning that if your pet is suffering from allergy or digestive problems then there may just be an organic pet food solution out there that will help ease its suffering.
Virginia Louise is a convert to the organic way of life and enjoys a healthier lifestyle.
Visit her organic food web site for some free recipes and lots of helpful hints.
Sunday, February 3, 2008
How My Dog Taz Became The Houdini Of Dogs - The World's Greatest Escape Artist
By Julius Robinson
The first dog I ever owned was Taz, a shorthaired, dingo-like medium male
mutt with a handsome face and intelligent eyes. I had been married ten years,
and had an eight-year-old daughter. We bought our first house in the San
Fernando Valley area of Los Angeles , a ranch-style 3 bedroom with a big yard.
At our housewarming party, as is customary in friendly circles, someone gave
us a six month old pup saved from the pound. Taz.
Taz had no obvious bad habits. No biting, peeing or pooping in the house. He
chewed a couple sofas, that was it. However, Taz always was a bit leery of
our family. My wife Cindi is outgoing, always on-the-run show biz exec, never
much of a pet person. A dog was just another item any decent house must have,
much like a nice china buffet or a wide-screen TV. It's not that she was mean
to him, they just didn't connect. I think dog food grossed my wife out, so I
was the one who fed him. You can imagine who picked up poop.
I loved to scratch Taz's ears and he was affectionate towards me. But, if
such a thing was possible, Taz seemed a bit bored by my company. Like he was
really way too smart and he had to suffer this fool because I was human and
had a house and fed him and walked him. I just thought I was incredibly
insecure, imagining things about my dog that could not be true.
My 8-year old daughter Chloe was into her own world of reading and
imagination. She loved Taz a lot, but her promise to walk the dog every day
soon got old as Taz would pull on the leash so hard that she would either
have to let go or get dragged along the ground.
So the chore of feeding, walking and training Taz fell to me. I guess I made
every mistake in the book. On my daily walks with Taz he pulled the leash. I
let him pull, in fact, I would take him to one of my favorite hiking trails
nearby -- one that was mostly uphill for the first mile, and let Taz drag me
like a one-dog mush team to the top. I was lazy, Taz was exhausted, but
triumphant. He was the leader of the pack and I was the alpha dog. Beta
really. I think this was the problem. I never established myself as the
leader of the pack. I was just this competing male Taz wanted to get away
from.
What I should have done first of all was train him to sit quietly and
patiently in the house while I attached the leash. If he pulled, I should
have just sat down and waited until he calmed down and stopped. Then, instead
of heading toward the door, I should have walked him with a loose leash
around the house. Finally, we should have practiced sitting at the door,
leash loose, until I gave the command to walk out. But I was too ignorant and
busy to train him properly, I take all the blame!
Luckily, Taz came to us already house trained, so this was never the problem.
In fact he loved the yard a lot, exploring every corner. I was relieved at
first, proud that I had a yard large enough for him to explore and stretch
his legs. In fact, everything was hunky-dory until one day I spotted Taz
through the living room window sprinting away down the street. A whole year
of prison-breaks had begun.
I would usually jump into my car and give chase. Taz would spot me and deftly
bolt through traffic and into adjoining neighborhoods. Usually I would lose
him around a corner. A few hours later, however, I would inevitably get a
phone call. We had luckily always had a dog tag with our phone number around
his neck. Every person would describe a scratching at the door, and Taz would
invite himself in and make himself at home.
I went about sealing every possible escape route from my yard. I then had Taz
neutered, which someone said was the possible reason for his wanderlust the
smell of females. Despite all this Taz would escape again and again, and
within hours I would receive the customary phone call. Everyone loved Taz,
and I got to know a lot of people in a one-mile radius from my house.
Taz seemed to gravitate to one neighbor in particular who lived at the end of
a cul-de-sac by the freeway. The middle-aged husband and wife had three other
dogs. The husband was this surly unshaven kind of guy with a big potbelly who
wore ill-fitting white t-shirts. The wife was friendly enough, understood,
but I could tell the lumpy husband was none too pleased by Taz's frequent
visits.
Finally one day, I glanced into the backyard and witnessed Taz deftly
climbing a 6-foot tall wall covered with ivy and jumping over the fence. I
could not believe my eyes. The dog was part monkey. Someone suggested an
electric fence but I balked. I was not running a damn prison. I didn't want
to leave him tied up all day. I didn't know what to do but keep Taz in the
house.
However, soon even that strategy failed. Taz would slyly wait until one of us
would open the door and bolt out at full clip, headed for freedom, like Steve
McQueen on a motorcycle escaping the POW camp. Soon we would open the door
just wide enough for us to slide through and close it quickly when entering
and leaving the house. We felt like snakes.
This seemed to work for a while until one midnight the burglar alarm went off.
We were terrified. The backyard French doors were open. I was about to dial
911 when I noticed Taz climbing the rear fence faster than doggedly possible.
I suddenly realized Taz had opened the door himself and escaped.
I installed dead bolts in the doors, and all was well for a few weeks until a
house guest who was a chain smoker stayed with us. As you might guess, at two
a.m. he went out back for a smoke -- another escape opportunity for Taz.
I was awakened at 3:00 am by a phone call: the cul-de-sac freeway neighbors
were calling. The more friendly wife said Taz had scratched at their door,
woke them up, come in, snuggled in bed with them and fallen fast asleep. I
could come by in the morning to pick him up
The next morning I sheepishly arrive in my car and opened the hatch. The
lumpy t-shirt guy came out arms folded and promptly began loudly berating me:
"You're a child! You're a child! You can't control your own dog. What's wrong
with you? Have you thought about what is wrong with YOU?"
I begged for mercy, and finally was saved by the wife who brought Taz out. I
stuffed Taz in back and vowed to never have this happen again.
It just so happened that we were going camping the following weekend, and a
good friend of my wife who was an actress and dog trainer on the side vowed
to cure Taz of his bad habits. She moved in for a few days with her own
little black terrier, and soon I was bedazzled by the site of Taz dutifully
following orders, sitting, following, stopping (no fetching, the actress
thought that too demeaning). Taz stopped running away. I was amazed. She
vowed by the time we returned from our camping trip we would have a brand new
Taz
It was on our way home that we got a call that Taz had escaped once again.
This time he was at the dog pound. I walked down the long, depressing row of
cages and found Taz, looking awfully glad to see me.
The actress had helped; Taz was better for a few weeks, until one day he
slipped out the door when I was taking out the trash and sprinted toward the
dreaded cul-de-sac. This time I didn't even bother to follow.
Shortly afterward I got a phone call from the cul-de-sac wife. Look, said the
woman with all the kindness she could muster, we really love Taz. He sleeps
with us in our bed. He gets along great with our other three dogs, and our
roommate, a single woman, wants to walk him everyday. What do you say you let
us adopt him, no questions asked?
I talked it over with Cindi and Chloe, and at first their natural
possessiveness kicked in, as did mine. But I argued, maybe Taz liked it
better at the cul-de-sac. Maybe we never were the right family for Taz. We
all felt very sad, but finally we all agreed.
In fact I would often see Taz walking with the single woman, looking content.
Every now and then I'd see them on that steep hiking trail (not pulling the
leash) and Taz would lick me in recognition. As the years went by I saw him
less and less, and even once on the trail Taz did not seem to remember me.
If this seems like a bittersweet ending, it is. I wish I had known what I
know now about dog training. But ultimately, Taz was happier with that family,
and although I alone take the blame, I also am grateful to have known Taz --
and the lessons he taught me about myself.
Visit my website for other Dog and Puppy Tips http://www.PuppyDogTips.com
Julius Robinson is a noted writer and animal lover whose trials and tribulations with his dog Taz have inspired many to take control of their dogs. Visit his website http://www.PuppyDogTips.com
The first dog I ever owned was Taz, a shorthaired, dingo-like medium male
mutt with a handsome face and intelligent eyes. I had been married ten years,
and had an eight-year-old daughter. We bought our first house in the San
Fernando Valley area of Los Angeles , a ranch-style 3 bedroom with a big yard.
At our housewarming party, as is customary in friendly circles, someone gave
us a six month old pup saved from the pound. Taz.
Taz had no obvious bad habits. No biting, peeing or pooping in the house. He
chewed a couple sofas, that was it. However, Taz always was a bit leery of
our family. My wife Cindi is outgoing, always on-the-run show biz exec, never
much of a pet person. A dog was just another item any decent house must have,
much like a nice china buffet or a wide-screen TV. It's not that she was mean
to him, they just didn't connect. I think dog food grossed my wife out, so I
was the one who fed him. You can imagine who picked up poop.
I loved to scratch Taz's ears and he was affectionate towards me. But, if
such a thing was possible, Taz seemed a bit bored by my company. Like he was
really way too smart and he had to suffer this fool because I was human and
had a house and fed him and walked him. I just thought I was incredibly
insecure, imagining things about my dog that could not be true.
My 8-year old daughter Chloe was into her own world of reading and
imagination. She loved Taz a lot, but her promise to walk the dog every day
soon got old as Taz would pull on the leash so hard that she would either
have to let go or get dragged along the ground.
So the chore of feeding, walking and training Taz fell to me. I guess I made
every mistake in the book. On my daily walks with Taz he pulled the leash. I
let him pull, in fact, I would take him to one of my favorite hiking trails
nearby -- one that was mostly uphill for the first mile, and let Taz drag me
like a one-dog mush team to the top. I was lazy, Taz was exhausted, but
triumphant. He was the leader of the pack and I was the alpha dog. Beta
really. I think this was the problem. I never established myself as the
leader of the pack. I was just this competing male Taz wanted to get away
from.
What I should have done first of all was train him to sit quietly and
patiently in the house while I attached the leash. If he pulled, I should
have just sat down and waited until he calmed down and stopped. Then, instead
of heading toward the door, I should have walked him with a loose leash
around the house. Finally, we should have practiced sitting at the door,
leash loose, until I gave the command to walk out. But I was too ignorant and
busy to train him properly, I take all the blame!
Luckily, Taz came to us already house trained, so this was never the problem.
In fact he loved the yard a lot, exploring every corner. I was relieved at
first, proud that I had a yard large enough for him to explore and stretch
his legs. In fact, everything was hunky-dory until one day I spotted Taz
through the living room window sprinting away down the street. A whole year
of prison-breaks had begun.
I would usually jump into my car and give chase. Taz would spot me and deftly
bolt through traffic and into adjoining neighborhoods. Usually I would lose
him around a corner. A few hours later, however, I would inevitably get a
phone call. We had luckily always had a dog tag with our phone number around
his neck. Every person would describe a scratching at the door, and Taz would
invite himself in and make himself at home.
I went about sealing every possible escape route from my yard. I then had Taz
neutered, which someone said was the possible reason for his wanderlust the
smell of females. Despite all this Taz would escape again and again, and
within hours I would receive the customary phone call. Everyone loved Taz,
and I got to know a lot of people in a one-mile radius from my house.
Taz seemed to gravitate to one neighbor in particular who lived at the end of
a cul-de-sac by the freeway. The middle-aged husband and wife had three other
dogs. The husband was this surly unshaven kind of guy with a big potbelly who
wore ill-fitting white t-shirts. The wife was friendly enough, understood,
but I could tell the lumpy husband was none too pleased by Taz's frequent
visits.
Finally one day, I glanced into the backyard and witnessed Taz deftly
climbing a 6-foot tall wall covered with ivy and jumping over the fence. I
could not believe my eyes. The dog was part monkey. Someone suggested an
electric fence but I balked. I was not running a damn prison. I didn't want
to leave him tied up all day. I didn't know what to do but keep Taz in the
house.
However, soon even that strategy failed. Taz would slyly wait until one of us
would open the door and bolt out at full clip, headed for freedom, like Steve
McQueen on a motorcycle escaping the POW camp. Soon we would open the door
just wide enough for us to slide through and close it quickly when entering
and leaving the house. We felt like snakes.
This seemed to work for a while until one midnight the burglar alarm went off.
We were terrified. The backyard French doors were open. I was about to dial
911 when I noticed Taz climbing the rear fence faster than doggedly possible.
I suddenly realized Taz had opened the door himself and escaped.
I installed dead bolts in the doors, and all was well for a few weeks until a
house guest who was a chain smoker stayed with us. As you might guess, at two
a.m. he went out back for a smoke -- another escape opportunity for Taz.
I was awakened at 3:00 am by a phone call: the cul-de-sac freeway neighbors
were calling. The more friendly wife said Taz had scratched at their door,
woke them up, come in, snuggled in bed with them and fallen fast asleep. I
could come by in the morning to pick him up
The next morning I sheepishly arrive in my car and opened the hatch. The
lumpy t-shirt guy came out arms folded and promptly began loudly berating me:
"You're a child! You're a child! You can't control your own dog. What's wrong
with you? Have you thought about what is wrong with YOU?"
I begged for mercy, and finally was saved by the wife who brought Taz out. I
stuffed Taz in back and vowed to never have this happen again.
It just so happened that we were going camping the following weekend, and a
good friend of my wife who was an actress and dog trainer on the side vowed
to cure Taz of his bad habits. She moved in for a few days with her own
little black terrier, and soon I was bedazzled by the site of Taz dutifully
following orders, sitting, following, stopping (no fetching, the actress
thought that too demeaning). Taz stopped running away. I was amazed. She
vowed by the time we returned from our camping trip we would have a brand new
Taz
It was on our way home that we got a call that Taz had escaped once again.
This time he was at the dog pound. I walked down the long, depressing row of
cages and found Taz, looking awfully glad to see me.
The actress had helped; Taz was better for a few weeks, until one day he
slipped out the door when I was taking out the trash and sprinted toward the
dreaded cul-de-sac. This time I didn't even bother to follow.
Shortly afterward I got a phone call from the cul-de-sac wife. Look, said the
woman with all the kindness she could muster, we really love Taz. He sleeps
with us in our bed. He gets along great with our other three dogs, and our
roommate, a single woman, wants to walk him everyday. What do you say you let
us adopt him, no questions asked?
I talked it over with Cindi and Chloe, and at first their natural
possessiveness kicked in, as did mine. But I argued, maybe Taz liked it
better at the cul-de-sac. Maybe we never were the right family for Taz. We
all felt very sad, but finally we all agreed.
In fact I would often see Taz walking with the single woman, looking content.
Every now and then I'd see them on that steep hiking trail (not pulling the
leash) and Taz would lick me in recognition. As the years went by I saw him
less and less, and even once on the trail Taz did not seem to remember me.
If this seems like a bittersweet ending, it is. I wish I had known what I
know now about dog training. But ultimately, Taz was happier with that family,
and although I alone take the blame, I also am grateful to have known Taz --
and the lessons he taught me about myself.
Visit my website for other Dog and Puppy Tips http://www.PuppyDogTips.com
Julius Robinson is a noted writer and animal lover whose trials and tribulations with his dog Taz have inspired many to take control of their dogs. Visit his website http://www.PuppyDogTips.com
Friday, February 1, 2008
Does Convenience Dictate our Choice of Petfood?
By John Birch
The basic choice we have when we look for a petfood for our dog or cat is whether to go for a dry complete mix, or a moist/canned food. The main criteria to consider are the place you shop, how much money you would like to spend and the level of convenience, palatability and digestibility desired.
The difference in moisture content among the various types of pet food impacts the nutrient density of the products or the amount of nutrients per pound of food. As the water content of the diet increases, the amount of protein, fat and other essential nutrients decreases. That means the animal must consume a larger portion of the high moisture products to receive the nutrition they need, but it also makes comparisons between the different types of food difficult.
Canned or pouch foods offer highest palatability and the highest cost per serving when compared to the dry and soft-moist products. However, they are less convenient to use, as once opened any unused food needs to be stored in the refrigerator.
The main advantage of dry foods is convenience, as wastage is minimal, cost is low in comparison to canned or pouch foods, and it is claimed that the grinding action of eating dry food helps to keep teeth clean (again disputed by some.)
Carbohydrates constitute between 30 percent and 40 percent of dry cat food. Some have been concerned that this unnatural diet is harmful to cats and leads to increased incidence of diabetes. Wet cat food, on the other hand, is high in protein and more similar to a natural carnivore diet.
Canned or Pouch Food
Obviously it is difficult to give anything other than a guide to the production process, as methods and machinery vary. Also, some products are presented in a 'loaf' form and others as chunks in 'gravy'. But a typical processing scenario for canned or pouch food would be:
Meat products are thawed, pre-chopped and stored in silos containing no more than half an hour's production.
Then as soon as they enter the production chain, the ingredients required for the recipe are dosed and ground.
An endless screw collects and weighs the components.
The resulting mass is then sent to the thin pre-cutters and mixers. At this stage, minerals, cereals and vitamins as required are added to ensure a balanced diet for the cat or the dog.
The product is then packed in cans, metal trays or sterilised pouches
Bear in mind that those 'meaty chunks' in your pet's food may not be all that they seem! Much of this material is manufactured from ground up meat which is extruded to give the impression of meat fibres. Soya protein isolates can help to give these chunks more body by holding onto water.
Dry Food
Again it is difficult to give anything other than a guide to the production process, as methods and machinery vary, but the simplified method below is common:
The ingredients required for a given recipe are first weighed, ground and mixed.
Production is achieved through a special technology : cooking-extrusion. This involves exposing the mixture of animal and vegetable materials to the combined effects of pressure and temperature for a short period, making the product highly digestible as it ensures the complete cooking of the starch.
Dry foods may then be sprayed with fat in order to complete their composition and increase palatability.
Because dry foods are exposed to the air, and not sterilised in a can or pouch, they need to have anti-oxidants and preservatives added to ensure that the product does not go rancid. These can be chemical (declared as 'EU approved antioxidants' and could be BHA, BHT or Ethoxiquin for instance) or natural (Vitamin E or C, and an extract of Rosemary Oil are common),
Natural antioxidants are generally less stable and more prone to degredation if subjected to high temperatures. They are also more expensive to use!
The author, who originally trained as a food technologist has, in his time owned dogs, cats, hamsters and birds, sold pet food and spent the past decade marketing it. Now down to one cat, one dog and running Pet Food Choice, a website full of information on pet food choices, money-saving ideas and much more - http://www.pet-food-choice.co.uk
The basic choice we have when we look for a petfood for our dog or cat is whether to go for a dry complete mix, or a moist/canned food. The main criteria to consider are the place you shop, how much money you would like to spend and the level of convenience, palatability and digestibility desired.
The difference in moisture content among the various types of pet food impacts the nutrient density of the products or the amount of nutrients per pound of food. As the water content of the diet increases, the amount of protein, fat and other essential nutrients decreases. That means the animal must consume a larger portion of the high moisture products to receive the nutrition they need, but it also makes comparisons between the different types of food difficult.
Canned or pouch foods offer highest palatability and the highest cost per serving when compared to the dry and soft-moist products. However, they are less convenient to use, as once opened any unused food needs to be stored in the refrigerator.
The main advantage of dry foods is convenience, as wastage is minimal, cost is low in comparison to canned or pouch foods, and it is claimed that the grinding action of eating dry food helps to keep teeth clean (again disputed by some.)
Carbohydrates constitute between 30 percent and 40 percent of dry cat food. Some have been concerned that this unnatural diet is harmful to cats and leads to increased incidence of diabetes. Wet cat food, on the other hand, is high in protein and more similar to a natural carnivore diet.
Canned or Pouch Food
Obviously it is difficult to give anything other than a guide to the production process, as methods and machinery vary. Also, some products are presented in a 'loaf' form and others as chunks in 'gravy'. But a typical processing scenario for canned or pouch food would be:
Meat products are thawed, pre-chopped and stored in silos containing no more than half an hour's production.
Then as soon as they enter the production chain, the ingredients required for the recipe are dosed and ground.
An endless screw collects and weighs the components.
The resulting mass is then sent to the thin pre-cutters and mixers. At this stage, minerals, cereals and vitamins as required are added to ensure a balanced diet for the cat or the dog.
The product is then packed in cans, metal trays or sterilised pouches
Bear in mind that those 'meaty chunks' in your pet's food may not be all that they seem! Much of this material is manufactured from ground up meat which is extruded to give the impression of meat fibres. Soya protein isolates can help to give these chunks more body by holding onto water.
Dry Food
Again it is difficult to give anything other than a guide to the production process, as methods and machinery vary, but the simplified method below is common:
The ingredients required for a given recipe are first weighed, ground and mixed.
Production is achieved through a special technology : cooking-extrusion. This involves exposing the mixture of animal and vegetable materials to the combined effects of pressure and temperature for a short period, making the product highly digestible as it ensures the complete cooking of the starch.
Dry foods may then be sprayed with fat in order to complete their composition and increase palatability.
Because dry foods are exposed to the air, and not sterilised in a can or pouch, they need to have anti-oxidants and preservatives added to ensure that the product does not go rancid. These can be chemical (declared as 'EU approved antioxidants' and could be BHA, BHT or Ethoxiquin for instance) or natural (Vitamin E or C, and an extract of Rosemary Oil are common),
Natural antioxidants are generally less stable and more prone to degredation if subjected to high temperatures. They are also more expensive to use!
The author, who originally trained as a food technologist has, in his time owned dogs, cats, hamsters and birds, sold pet food and spent the past decade marketing it. Now down to one cat, one dog and running Pet Food Choice, a website full of information on pet food choices, money-saving ideas and much more - http://www.pet-food-choice.co.uk
Thursday, January 31, 2008
Obesity in Cats and Dogs
By Kiya Sama
Obesity in cats and dogs comes from the same cause as in human beings - the body takes in more energy than it puts out. Life is too easy, food too available. Too much food and too little exercise, along with a low metabolism rate, can make your pet balloon up fast. One cat in every 10 is overweight. Four dogs in every 10 are overweight. Why is this cause for worry? You love your pet fast as much as thin. But a fat pet has greater risk of diseases of the skin, heart, stomach, liver, and kidneys. Overweight can contribute to diabetes. It puts a burden on joints and contributes to osteoarthritis. And it increases a tendency to suffer from heat stroke and lengthens recovery time from surgery. As anyone who has had a fat animal knows, treating pet obesity is harder than preventing it. If your pet has a tendency to put on pounds, try the following:
Check your dog or cat for extra weight by feeling its sides - you should be able to feel the ribs easily. If there is more than � inch of fat between fur and ribs, the animal is overweight. You should be able to see a waistline from above on a dog.
Know what your pet weighs, and keep track of it. Most vets have a scale on which you can weigh your dog. You can also weigh your pet at home if it is light enough to pick up easily in your arms. First weigh yourself. Then hold your pet in your arms and step on the scale. Subtract your weight from the combined weight of you and your pet.
Check with your veterinarian before putting your dog or cat on a diet. In general, reduce caloric intake to 75 percent of what an animal of its weight should normally eat. Buy food that is low in fat - compare labels. For dogs, add fiber, like a bulking agent (Metamucil), bran, or canned vegetables (to 10-15 percent of the animal's food). Commercial diet foods come with instructions on how much food to give to animals of various sizes for safe weight loss. Change the diet in increments (shift foods) rather than all at once, otherwise the animal may get diarrhea. Supplement with multivitamins. Most important, discuss your animal's diet with your veterinarians.
Try feeding an overweight dog or cat more often. Take the daily ration and divide it into three meals, for instance.
Give your dog plenty of exercise, but increase it slowly. Don't exercise the animal within an hour after eating. Small dogs may need only the exercise they get in the house or yard. Older dogs may need only to be taken for walks. Other dogs can chase balls or sticks. You can take your cat for a walk on a leash, too, if you use a harness rather than a collar, which might choke it.
Don't feed your animal from the table, and try to stop feeding snacks like kitty treats and dog biscuits, which are high in fats. Animals are very good at begging, and all your efforts to help your pet lose weight may be foiled by one tender-hearted but unenlightened family member who slips the pet treats on the sly. Convince the members of the family that it is a kindness to help the animal lose weight. Be hard-hearted. If you do feed treats, figure in the calories.
This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pets.
Obesity in cats and dogs comes from the same cause as in human beings - the body takes in more energy than it puts out. Life is too easy, food too available. Too much food and too little exercise, along with a low metabolism rate, can make your pet balloon up fast. One cat in every 10 is overweight. Four dogs in every 10 are overweight. Why is this cause for worry? You love your pet fast as much as thin. But a fat pet has greater risk of diseases of the skin, heart, stomach, liver, and kidneys. Overweight can contribute to diabetes. It puts a burden on joints and contributes to osteoarthritis. And it increases a tendency to suffer from heat stroke and lengthens recovery time from surgery. As anyone who has had a fat animal knows, treating pet obesity is harder than preventing it. If your pet has a tendency to put on pounds, try the following:
Check your dog or cat for extra weight by feeling its sides - you should be able to feel the ribs easily. If there is more than � inch of fat between fur and ribs, the animal is overweight. You should be able to see a waistline from above on a dog.
Know what your pet weighs, and keep track of it. Most vets have a scale on which you can weigh your dog. You can also weigh your pet at home if it is light enough to pick up easily in your arms. First weigh yourself. Then hold your pet in your arms and step on the scale. Subtract your weight from the combined weight of you and your pet.
Check with your veterinarian before putting your dog or cat on a diet. In general, reduce caloric intake to 75 percent of what an animal of its weight should normally eat. Buy food that is low in fat - compare labels. For dogs, add fiber, like a bulking agent (Metamucil), bran, or canned vegetables (to 10-15 percent of the animal's food). Commercial diet foods come with instructions on how much food to give to animals of various sizes for safe weight loss. Change the diet in increments (shift foods) rather than all at once, otherwise the animal may get diarrhea. Supplement with multivitamins. Most important, discuss your animal's diet with your veterinarians.
Try feeding an overweight dog or cat more often. Take the daily ration and divide it into three meals, for instance.
Give your dog plenty of exercise, but increase it slowly. Don't exercise the animal within an hour after eating. Small dogs may need only the exercise they get in the house or yard. Older dogs may need only to be taken for walks. Other dogs can chase balls or sticks. You can take your cat for a walk on a leash, too, if you use a harness rather than a collar, which might choke it.
Don't feed your animal from the table, and try to stop feeding snacks like kitty treats and dog biscuits, which are high in fats. Animals are very good at begging, and all your efforts to help your pet lose weight may be foiled by one tender-hearted but unenlightened family member who slips the pet treats on the sly. Convince the members of the family that it is a kindness to help the animal lose weight. Be hard-hearted. If you do feed treats, figure in the calories.
This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pets.
Tuesday, January 29, 2008
A Cold, But Successful Adoption Event!
By Cheree Miller
We knew it would be cold today. Temperatures were expected to stay in the 40s. And then there was the wind. One of those icy breezes that just sliced through your clothes. We took turns sitting in our cars to warm up, and sheltered the animals with wind blocks, keeping the youngest ones in the back of an enclosed pickup for extra warmth. We even took turns cuddling the animals for warmth. We considered calling it off because of the cold, but the need was so great, with so many animals needing homes, we decided to dress warmly and brave the cold.
Jan had even made a special run to Ola the night before to rescue a momma dog on the street with twelve -- yes, I said TWELVE puppies. They are a very handsome Rottweiler/Lab mixture. Six of them were adopted out. The other six came home with me. (I know, not the way it's supposed to work, I am supposed to come home with FEWER animals, not more. At least, that's what my son keeps telling me!) I did manage to adopt out Chai Kitty and Leonardo, although I brought another black kitten (this one female) home with me. I also took in two Weimaraner/Lab mix puppies. Total count for the day: 2 cats out, 1 cat and 8 dogs in.
I know, I know. I do really well when someone CALLS to say they need me to take in an animal. I simply take a deep breath and tell them, "I am so sorry, my rescue is full, but I would be happy to post a digital photo of the dog or cat on line and see what we can do that way." But, when the animal is right in front of you, and you know the next stop is the animal shelter -- or worse -- being put down, that is a completely different story. I take a deep breath and say, "I would be willing to take in this animal, but I would really appreciate it if you could make a donation to my rescue to defray the expenses. I will have to have it vaccinated, de-wormed, tested for heartworm/fe-leuk, spayed/neutered, etc."
I did pull in some donations today. I will probably turn around and spend them on more crates for the additional pups I brought home today, after all, I can't exactly throw them outside with snow in the forecast this week...
Cheree is practice manager of Azzore Veterinary Specialists, and founder of the Mill Creek Animal Rescue - both in Russellville, AR.
You can see a list of animals available for adoption through Mill Creek Animal Rescue at Petfinder.com
We knew it would be cold today. Temperatures were expected to stay in the 40s. And then there was the wind. One of those icy breezes that just sliced through your clothes. We took turns sitting in our cars to warm up, and sheltered the animals with wind blocks, keeping the youngest ones in the back of an enclosed pickup for extra warmth. We even took turns cuddling the animals for warmth. We considered calling it off because of the cold, but the need was so great, with so many animals needing homes, we decided to dress warmly and brave the cold.
Jan had even made a special run to Ola the night before to rescue a momma dog on the street with twelve -- yes, I said TWELVE puppies. They are a very handsome Rottweiler/Lab mixture. Six of them were adopted out. The other six came home with me. (I know, not the way it's supposed to work, I am supposed to come home with FEWER animals, not more. At least, that's what my son keeps telling me!) I did manage to adopt out Chai Kitty and Leonardo, although I brought another black kitten (this one female) home with me. I also took in two Weimaraner/Lab mix puppies. Total count for the day: 2 cats out, 1 cat and 8 dogs in.
I know, I know. I do really well when someone CALLS to say they need me to take in an animal. I simply take a deep breath and tell them, "I am so sorry, my rescue is full, but I would be happy to post a digital photo of the dog or cat on line and see what we can do that way." But, when the animal is right in front of you, and you know the next stop is the animal shelter -- or worse -- being put down, that is a completely different story. I take a deep breath and say, "I would be willing to take in this animal, but I would really appreciate it if you could make a donation to my rescue to defray the expenses. I will have to have it vaccinated, de-wormed, tested for heartworm/fe-leuk, spayed/neutered, etc."
I did pull in some donations today. I will probably turn around and spend them on more crates for the additional pups I brought home today, after all, I can't exactly throw them outside with snow in the forecast this week...
Cheree is practice manager of Azzore Veterinary Specialists, and founder of the Mill Creek Animal Rescue - both in Russellville, AR.
You can see a list of animals available for adoption through Mill Creek Animal Rescue at Petfinder.com
Sunday, January 27, 2008
Rats As Pets?
By Mandy Kocevar
In the wake of Disney/Pixar's triumphant film Ratatouille, kids may start wanting a furry, little Remy of their own. Most parents, when faced with the question of rat ownership, will conjure up notions of disease, bites, and disgusting, fleshy tails, and instinctively blurt out, "No way!"
But the rats sold in pet stores are far different than their cousins who inhabit basements and sewers. They're called 'fancy rats,' and they couldn't deserve a better name. If you're looking for an energetic, loving, intelligent, easy-to-maintain, and relatively inexpensive pet for your children, you may not want to be so hasty in your decision. Rats might be just the thing you're looking for.
PROS
Rats are extremely clever - they can perform tricks, learn their names - even come when they're called. They love to spend time with their owners playing on the floor, snuggling in their arms, or just hanging out on a shoulder. They show affection by nuzzling and giving off loving, soft squeaks and squeals. Unlike most small pets (like mice, hamsters, gerbils, and rabbits), fancy rats rarely bite humans, even when provoked, so they're safe to handle.
They can be entertaining for hours, climbing on ropes and ladders, chasing each other, and wrestling with one another. Children are free to stretch their imaginations by building mazes, tunnels, and obstacle courses for their furry friends. And feeding time is always amusing - rats go crazy over fresh fruits and veggies.
Rat cages are surprisingly easy to maintain. They eliminate in one communal corner of the cage, so cleaning is a snap. They keep themselves squeaky clean, grooming each other often during their awake times. Because they have sleek fur, they won't have an odor (as long as you're doing your part in keeping the cage urine-free).
Cons
Rats are nocturnal, so they will be most active at night. It's ideal to keep the cage in a communal area of the house, such as the family room, so the rats can interact with the family as much as possible. If keeping the cage in a child's bedroom, be aware that rats love to play at night and might disrupt your child's sleep patterns.
Rats do not do well alone, so it is recommended that they be kept in groups of two or three. It is also recommended that they be kept in same-sex groups of either all males or all females. Females are smaller than males so they are better for younger children with small hands, but females tend to get a bit agitated once a week when they're in heat. Males are larger and a bit lazier, but both sexes make great pets.
Since rats are so intelligent, cage-life can get boring quickly, so rats need about an hour of playtime outside of the cage a day. When they're outside of the cage, make sure vents and holes or crevices are blocked off - rats like to burrow into small spaces and you might have a hard time retrieving them. Some children make a "playpen" out of couch cushions or toy blocks for their rats. Also, always keep dogs and cats in a separate room when the rats are out.
Taking your rat outdoors is not recommended for several reasons: your rat could contract a disease or acquire fleas and ticks, which results in more vet bills; if you lose sight of your rat, he or she might be lost for good; and, the most important reason - birds of prey will not distinguish your pet from any other rodent. Believe me, you don't want your child to go through that! Keeping your rat indoors is always best.
And lastly, the life-span for a rat is about 2-3 years, so if you're looking for a long-lived companion, rats might not be for you.
Price
For under $150 you can have everything you need for three rats. The animals themselves cost about $10 each.
Cage
I've searched pet stores and the web and the best cage I've found is the 30x18x30 Small Pet Cage by Pet Cages, Etc. This size is great for three rats. It has two stories with ladders for optimal exercise, the bar spacing is ideal for tiny rat feet, and the bottom tray slides out for easy cleaning. This cage is $67.00.
Food
It's best to feed block or pellet feed and supplement each day with a few fruits and veggies during outside playtime. Block or pellet feed ranges from $3 to $10, depending on bag size, and lasts longer than the seed and berry mixes. Here are some good choices for fruits and veggies: broccoli, peas, carrots, berries, apples, grapes, and bananas. Rats also enjoy unsweetened cereals. Nuts in shells are great specialty treats but should not be fed often since they are high in fat. For instance, each Christmas my rats received a few walnuts to play with. They make great puzzles as well as snacks.
Bedding
Never use cedar or pine bedding for your rats as it can be toxic. Most pet stores carry Carefresh bedding which is bio-degradable, absorbent, dust-free, and controls odors. Aspen bedding is also safe and is less expensive than Carefresh.
Accessories and Toys
You'll need a food bowl and a water bottle - glass bottles are best, but plastic ones are less expensive. Ramekins make great food bowls and are less expensive than the bowls sold at pet shops. You'll also need a nesting box for your rats that is big enough for all the rats to snuggle into together. I like the plastic Pet Igloos the best. I also always love to provide a hammock for my rats at the top of the cage - you can find them online or in the ferret section of any pet store. Some rats like chew toys but they aren't necessary.
If you've made it to the end of this article, I commend you. It means that somewhere, maybe way deep inside, you're considering a rat as a pet. Either that, or the idea was so appalling to you, you had to see if I was serious. Either way, I hope you've learned a thing or two. And even if rats still aren't your thing, you should at least be able to see why there are many who adore them.
Mandy has been a dog trainer and family pet advisor for ten years. She is passionate about matching the right pets with the right families and has fostered countless animals in her lifetime. Currently she is a staff writer for Plugged In Parents, providing parents with family pet solutions and information. Plugged In Parents is also an online resource for up-to-date health and safety, nutrition, and baby info along with recipes, family movie reviews, money and tech tips, and more! Visit pluggedinparents.com today!
In the wake of Disney/Pixar's triumphant film Ratatouille, kids may start wanting a furry, little Remy of their own. Most parents, when faced with the question of rat ownership, will conjure up notions of disease, bites, and disgusting, fleshy tails, and instinctively blurt out, "No way!"
But the rats sold in pet stores are far different than their cousins who inhabit basements and sewers. They're called 'fancy rats,' and they couldn't deserve a better name. If you're looking for an energetic, loving, intelligent, easy-to-maintain, and relatively inexpensive pet for your children, you may not want to be so hasty in your decision. Rats might be just the thing you're looking for.
PROS
Rats are extremely clever - they can perform tricks, learn their names - even come when they're called. They love to spend time with their owners playing on the floor, snuggling in their arms, or just hanging out on a shoulder. They show affection by nuzzling and giving off loving, soft squeaks and squeals. Unlike most small pets (like mice, hamsters, gerbils, and rabbits), fancy rats rarely bite humans, even when provoked, so they're safe to handle.
They can be entertaining for hours, climbing on ropes and ladders, chasing each other, and wrestling with one another. Children are free to stretch their imaginations by building mazes, tunnels, and obstacle courses for their furry friends. And feeding time is always amusing - rats go crazy over fresh fruits and veggies.
Rat cages are surprisingly easy to maintain. They eliminate in one communal corner of the cage, so cleaning is a snap. They keep themselves squeaky clean, grooming each other often during their awake times. Because they have sleek fur, they won't have an odor (as long as you're doing your part in keeping the cage urine-free).
Cons
Rats are nocturnal, so they will be most active at night. It's ideal to keep the cage in a communal area of the house, such as the family room, so the rats can interact with the family as much as possible. If keeping the cage in a child's bedroom, be aware that rats love to play at night and might disrupt your child's sleep patterns.
Rats do not do well alone, so it is recommended that they be kept in groups of two or three. It is also recommended that they be kept in same-sex groups of either all males or all females. Females are smaller than males so they are better for younger children with small hands, but females tend to get a bit agitated once a week when they're in heat. Males are larger and a bit lazier, but both sexes make great pets.
Since rats are so intelligent, cage-life can get boring quickly, so rats need about an hour of playtime outside of the cage a day. When they're outside of the cage, make sure vents and holes or crevices are blocked off - rats like to burrow into small spaces and you might have a hard time retrieving them. Some children make a "playpen" out of couch cushions or toy blocks for their rats. Also, always keep dogs and cats in a separate room when the rats are out.
Taking your rat outdoors is not recommended for several reasons: your rat could contract a disease or acquire fleas and ticks, which results in more vet bills; if you lose sight of your rat, he or she might be lost for good; and, the most important reason - birds of prey will not distinguish your pet from any other rodent. Believe me, you don't want your child to go through that! Keeping your rat indoors is always best.
And lastly, the life-span for a rat is about 2-3 years, so if you're looking for a long-lived companion, rats might not be for you.
Price
For under $150 you can have everything you need for three rats. The animals themselves cost about $10 each.
Cage
I've searched pet stores and the web and the best cage I've found is the 30x18x30 Small Pet Cage by Pet Cages, Etc. This size is great for three rats. It has two stories with ladders for optimal exercise, the bar spacing is ideal for tiny rat feet, and the bottom tray slides out for easy cleaning. This cage is $67.00.
Food
It's best to feed block or pellet feed and supplement each day with a few fruits and veggies during outside playtime. Block or pellet feed ranges from $3 to $10, depending on bag size, and lasts longer than the seed and berry mixes. Here are some good choices for fruits and veggies: broccoli, peas, carrots, berries, apples, grapes, and bananas. Rats also enjoy unsweetened cereals. Nuts in shells are great specialty treats but should not be fed often since they are high in fat. For instance, each Christmas my rats received a few walnuts to play with. They make great puzzles as well as snacks.
Bedding
Never use cedar or pine bedding for your rats as it can be toxic. Most pet stores carry Carefresh bedding which is bio-degradable, absorbent, dust-free, and controls odors. Aspen bedding is also safe and is less expensive than Carefresh.
Accessories and Toys
You'll need a food bowl and a water bottle - glass bottles are best, but plastic ones are less expensive. Ramekins make great food bowls and are less expensive than the bowls sold at pet shops. You'll also need a nesting box for your rats that is big enough for all the rats to snuggle into together. I like the plastic Pet Igloos the best. I also always love to provide a hammock for my rats at the top of the cage - you can find them online or in the ferret section of any pet store. Some rats like chew toys but they aren't necessary.
If you've made it to the end of this article, I commend you. It means that somewhere, maybe way deep inside, you're considering a rat as a pet. Either that, or the idea was so appalling to you, you had to see if I was serious. Either way, I hope you've learned a thing or two. And even if rats still aren't your thing, you should at least be able to see why there are many who adore them.
Mandy has been a dog trainer and family pet advisor for ten years. She is passionate about matching the right pets with the right families and has fostered countless animals in her lifetime. Currently she is a staff writer for Plugged In Parents, providing parents with family pet solutions and information. Plugged In Parents is also an online resource for up-to-date health and safety, nutrition, and baby info along with recipes, family movie reviews, money and tech tips, and more! Visit pluggedinparents.com today!
Friday, January 25, 2008
Pet Basics
By Tonia Jordan
Pets can have very beneficial effects on their owners. They're stimulating, entertaining, and can even improve the general health and well-being of an owner, such as lowering blood pressure or relieving stress. As humans, we often seek companionship and we find that easily in the pet-owner relationship. Before getting a new pet, though, there are several things we should think about first.
Compatibility:
Though it seems obvious, you should be sure that you're compatible with your pet of choice. If you have a great fear of an animal, it would be best not to keep it as a pet. Doing so will most likely cause unneeded stress to you and to the pet. Be sure your pet is compatible with members of your family, particularly children. There are types of species that are not good with children, and some pets require more attention than others.
Habitat:
Many pets require a specific type of habitat, whether it's a large enclosure, a cage or aquarium. Choose the habitat that suit's the pet the best. Research or ask a pet provider which is best. Many small animals like rodents can escape from cages that have small openings like spaces between wires in a cage. Some animals require more room than others. The best way to be sure what type of habitat is best for your pet is to ask a professional.
Food:
Be sure you'll be able to provide enough food for your pet. Food can get expensive depending on the pet. Some animals require live food, so be sure it is easily available for purchase in your area.
Maintenance:
Most animals need maintenance of some kind, whether it is keeping their habitat clean, checking for health problems or even just interaction. Know what you're getting into beforehand, and be sure you have enough time to dedicate yourself to proper maintenance.
Health:
Know the health risks of your pets. Some types of animals are more prone to specific diseases or conditions. Be sure that you're ready to deal with complications if they arise. Some animals require to be removed from their normal habitat and kept in a special "hospital" type habitat instead. (Fish, for instance, need to be removed from a common tank if sick)
In general, a good rule is to never purchase a pet on a whim. Do your research first. A pet is a great responsibility, as you will be accountable for a being's life. There are many advantages to owning a pet, but it is a decision not to be taken lightly.
This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pets.
Pets can have very beneficial effects on their owners. They're stimulating, entertaining, and can even improve the general health and well-being of an owner, such as lowering blood pressure or relieving stress. As humans, we often seek companionship and we find that easily in the pet-owner relationship. Before getting a new pet, though, there are several things we should think about first.
Compatibility:
Though it seems obvious, you should be sure that you're compatible with your pet of choice. If you have a great fear of an animal, it would be best not to keep it as a pet. Doing so will most likely cause unneeded stress to you and to the pet. Be sure your pet is compatible with members of your family, particularly children. There are types of species that are not good with children, and some pets require more attention than others.
Habitat:
Many pets require a specific type of habitat, whether it's a large enclosure, a cage or aquarium. Choose the habitat that suit's the pet the best. Research or ask a pet provider which is best. Many small animals like rodents can escape from cages that have small openings like spaces between wires in a cage. Some animals require more room than others. The best way to be sure what type of habitat is best for your pet is to ask a professional.
Food:
Be sure you'll be able to provide enough food for your pet. Food can get expensive depending on the pet. Some animals require live food, so be sure it is easily available for purchase in your area.
Maintenance:
Most animals need maintenance of some kind, whether it is keeping their habitat clean, checking for health problems or even just interaction. Know what you're getting into beforehand, and be sure you have enough time to dedicate yourself to proper maintenance.
Health:
Know the health risks of your pets. Some types of animals are more prone to specific diseases or conditions. Be sure that you're ready to deal with complications if they arise. Some animals require to be removed from their normal habitat and kept in a special "hospital" type habitat instead. (Fish, for instance, need to be removed from a common tank if sick)
In general, a good rule is to never purchase a pet on a whim. Do your research first. A pet is a great responsibility, as you will be accountable for a being's life. There are many advantages to owning a pet, but it is a decision not to be taken lightly.
This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pets.
Wednesday, January 23, 2008
Humane Treatment of Animals
By Tracey Wilson
Throughout the last several years, understanding animals has greatly evolved. Horrible, nightmarish acts were carried out on animals, all in the name of science. A lot of people thought that the animals they tortured actually did not have any emotions or feelings what-so-ever. The horrid tests they performed on these poor lab animals were beyond comprehension. The scientists working on the animals thought that the screams and desperate attempt to free themselves was all a part of an inherent reaction, void of pain or fear.
Thank goodness we now know this to be absolutely false. Animals can physically feel pain, just as humans. Studies have shown, beyond a doubt, that animals actually experience stress when placed in less than comfortable circumstances. When 'feed' animals are kept in the same room as the animals being butchered, their vital signs drastically accelerate, as well as portraying nervous tendencies. Sadly, they also distribute emotions for the animals being harmed or killed.
The cruelty we still inflict on caged animals can not be tolerated any longer. Even though we know they greatly suffer, the habitats and living conditions of these animals are abominable. A well known fast food chicken restaurant keeps their chickens piled on top of one another, cuts off their beaks, feeds them steroids and antibiotics, just to name of few of the inhumane acts. Not only do they not care that we know these things, they're arrogant in their reply to go eat somewhere else if it upsets you. Although I will not name this restaurant, with a little effort, you'll easily be able to find this information, along with video proof.
We need to be more proactive, and demand more humane treatment of the less fortunate animals who are born into, or adopted into such research labs or food houses. Just because an animal is going to be killed, doesn't give the people who are housing the animals the right to abuse them during the time they are alive. It's bad enough they're there for the reason they are. We also need to demand that they are put down in the most compassionate way possible.
When you are searching for a new veterinarian, take the time to ask him/her what their stands on animal's aches, pains and emotions are. You may be shocked to discover many veterinarians do not even distribute pain medication after surgery; especially routine surgeries, such as neutering, spade, cutting the horns off of bulls, etc... The more traditional veterinarians will actually laugh in the face of a 'newer age' veterinarian who takes the animal's pain and comfort level into consideration. It is shocking to learn this, because you would think if anyone has compassion about an animal's comfort level, it would definitely be a veterinarian. Many of the schools teach them to put up a wall to shield themselves from getting too emotionally attached. They do the same thing in medical and nursing school; they try to teach you to be detached from the patient, so the caring tendencies which usually helped you decide to go into this chosen profession, are quickly buried and covered with all the technical aspects of the business.
People need to start insisting that their health care providers for their pets and farm animals bring compassion back to the forefront of their chosen profession.
Humane treatment of living animals is not asking too much. Every little bit of kindness we can put back into the world will put a pin-point of light into the darkness.
This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/, which is a site for Pets.
Throughout the last several years, understanding animals has greatly evolved. Horrible, nightmarish acts were carried out on animals, all in the name of science. A lot of people thought that the animals they tortured actually did not have any emotions or feelings what-so-ever. The horrid tests they performed on these poor lab animals were beyond comprehension. The scientists working on the animals thought that the screams and desperate attempt to free themselves was all a part of an inherent reaction, void of pain or fear.
Thank goodness we now know this to be absolutely false. Animals can physically feel pain, just as humans. Studies have shown, beyond a doubt, that animals actually experience stress when placed in less than comfortable circumstances. When 'feed' animals are kept in the same room as the animals being butchered, their vital signs drastically accelerate, as well as portraying nervous tendencies. Sadly, they also distribute emotions for the animals being harmed or killed.
The cruelty we still inflict on caged animals can not be tolerated any longer. Even though we know they greatly suffer, the habitats and living conditions of these animals are abominable. A well known fast food chicken restaurant keeps their chickens piled on top of one another, cuts off their beaks, feeds them steroids and antibiotics, just to name of few of the inhumane acts. Not only do they not care that we know these things, they're arrogant in their reply to go eat somewhere else if it upsets you. Although I will not name this restaurant, with a little effort, you'll easily be able to find this information, along with video proof.
We need to be more proactive, and demand more humane treatment of the less fortunate animals who are born into, or adopted into such research labs or food houses. Just because an animal is going to be killed, doesn't give the people who are housing the animals the right to abuse them during the time they are alive. It's bad enough they're there for the reason they are. We also need to demand that they are put down in the most compassionate way possible.
When you are searching for a new veterinarian, take the time to ask him/her what their stands on animal's aches, pains and emotions are. You may be shocked to discover many veterinarians do not even distribute pain medication after surgery; especially routine surgeries, such as neutering, spade, cutting the horns off of bulls, etc... The more traditional veterinarians will actually laugh in the face of a 'newer age' veterinarian who takes the animal's pain and comfort level into consideration. It is shocking to learn this, because you would think if anyone has compassion about an animal's comfort level, it would definitely be a veterinarian. Many of the schools teach them to put up a wall to shield themselves from getting too emotionally attached. They do the same thing in medical and nursing school; they try to teach you to be detached from the patient, so the caring tendencies which usually helped you decide to go into this chosen profession, are quickly buried and covered with all the technical aspects of the business.
People need to start insisting that their health care providers for their pets and farm animals bring compassion back to the forefront of their chosen profession.
Humane treatment of living animals is not asking too much. Every little bit of kindness we can put back into the world will put a pin-point of light into the darkness.
This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/, which is a site for Pets.
Monday, January 21, 2008
Tips for Choosing a Terrarium Animal
By Will Kalif
An animal terrarium, also called a vivarium, is a wonderful way to blend the satisfaction of having a small pet with the aesthetic beauty of a terrarium. This article will help you choose which type of animal is right for your terrarium.
There are some quick rules of thumb you should consider before you build your terrarium. The first rule is that the animal comes first. Everything should be designed for the comfort and happiness of the animal. Some of these considerations will concern humidity, types of plants, amount of water, and whether the cage should be fully enclosed.
The second biggest consideration is toxicity. Because you are going to have plants and soil you may be using some kind of fertilizer. Never use chemical fertilizers; stick with all natural fertilizers. And when cleaning your tank never use toxic cleaners. I recommend you use simple green or another type of non-toxic cleaner.
Two more things to consider are the size of the animal and its behavior toward other animals. Only choose a pet that is small and will stay small. And never mix pets that will eat each other.
If you are an absolute beginner to pets and to terrariums I recommend you start with field crickets as your pet. They are very hardy, easy to maintain, easy to feed, and are quite fun to watch. They make an excellent first pet. Of course, if you upgrade to another type of pet you may have to remove the crickets because many of the pets suitable for a vivarium will deem crickets to be food.
There are two basic types of animal terrariums: Dry and wet. This is self-explanatory but it is important to note that dry terrariums are much easier to maintain so if you are a beginner to this hobby you should probably stick with them. And remember that dry doesn't mean no water at all. You should always keep a small dish of water in the terrarium as a minimum regardless of what type of pet you are keeping.
Some of the pets that are suitable for a dry terrarium include:
Crickets
Tarantulas
American Chameleon - These are easy to care for and inexpensive
Toads, but with a caveat - They are great when they are small but when they grow bigger they can be a bit of a hassle
Hermit crabs - Can be ok in dry cages but absolutely must have a water dish and things to climb on. You need to spray mist them regularly too. Best for them is a wet bottom terrarium with plenty of options for climbing to stay dry
Land Snails - Need a high humidity environment and will dig if your substrate is soil
Salamanders
Leopard Geckos
A Wet Vivarium can be an environment that has a portion of the bottom filled with water or be an aquarium tank where the complete bottom is filled to a depth of several inches. This does add the challenge of making sure you have clean water and even a filtration system. Some pets, such as tadpoles, absolutely require large amounts of filtered water for their well being. This type of terrarium is much more of a challenge than the dry type and you should tackle this kind only after having successfully kept a dry one for a period of time.
Some common and easy to care for wet pets are:
Green Tree Frogs
Red Bellied Toads
Dwarf African Frogs
Fire Bellied Frogs
Tadpoles
Fire Bellied Newts
Crayfish
So Which Pet should you choose? I recommend that if you are a beginner to vivariums you choose a pet from the dry list (because they are easier to maintain). Research the requirements of the pet you have chosen and build your terrarium accordingly. If you are looking for a bigger challenge, have a bit of skill, or want a more dramatic terrarium then choose something from the wet pet list. If you follow these simple steps you will build yourself a nice little animal enclosure that will keep your animal happy and bring you lots of fun in observing it and caring for it.
For more interesting terrarium projects and ideas visit the authors website at: Terrarium Man
An animal terrarium, also called a vivarium, is a wonderful way to blend the satisfaction of having a small pet with the aesthetic beauty of a terrarium. This article will help you choose which type of animal is right for your terrarium.
There are some quick rules of thumb you should consider before you build your terrarium. The first rule is that the animal comes first. Everything should be designed for the comfort and happiness of the animal. Some of these considerations will concern humidity, types of plants, amount of water, and whether the cage should be fully enclosed.
The second biggest consideration is toxicity. Because you are going to have plants and soil you may be using some kind of fertilizer. Never use chemical fertilizers; stick with all natural fertilizers. And when cleaning your tank never use toxic cleaners. I recommend you use simple green or another type of non-toxic cleaner.
Two more things to consider are the size of the animal and its behavior toward other animals. Only choose a pet that is small and will stay small. And never mix pets that will eat each other.
If you are an absolute beginner to pets and to terrariums I recommend you start with field crickets as your pet. They are very hardy, easy to maintain, easy to feed, and are quite fun to watch. They make an excellent first pet. Of course, if you upgrade to another type of pet you may have to remove the crickets because many of the pets suitable for a vivarium will deem crickets to be food.
There are two basic types of animal terrariums: Dry and wet. This is self-explanatory but it is important to note that dry terrariums are much easier to maintain so if you are a beginner to this hobby you should probably stick with them. And remember that dry doesn't mean no water at all. You should always keep a small dish of water in the terrarium as a minimum regardless of what type of pet you are keeping.
Some of the pets that are suitable for a dry terrarium include:
Crickets
Tarantulas
American Chameleon - These are easy to care for and inexpensive
Toads, but with a caveat - They are great when they are small but when they grow bigger they can be a bit of a hassle
Hermit crabs - Can be ok in dry cages but absolutely must have a water dish and things to climb on. You need to spray mist them regularly too. Best for them is a wet bottom terrarium with plenty of options for climbing to stay dry
Land Snails - Need a high humidity environment and will dig if your substrate is soil
Salamanders
Leopard Geckos
A Wet Vivarium can be an environment that has a portion of the bottom filled with water or be an aquarium tank where the complete bottom is filled to a depth of several inches. This does add the challenge of making sure you have clean water and even a filtration system. Some pets, such as tadpoles, absolutely require large amounts of filtered water for their well being. This type of terrarium is much more of a challenge than the dry type and you should tackle this kind only after having successfully kept a dry one for a period of time.
Some common and easy to care for wet pets are:
Green Tree Frogs
Red Bellied Toads
Dwarf African Frogs
Fire Bellied Frogs
Tadpoles
Fire Bellied Newts
Crayfish
So Which Pet should you choose? I recommend that if you are a beginner to vivariums you choose a pet from the dry list (because they are easier to maintain). Research the requirements of the pet you have chosen and build your terrarium accordingly. If you are looking for a bigger challenge, have a bit of skill, or want a more dramatic terrarium then choose something from the wet pet list. If you follow these simple steps you will build yourself a nice little animal enclosure that will keep your animal happy and bring you lots of fun in observing it and caring for it.
For more interesting terrarium projects and ideas visit the authors website at: Terrarium Man
Saturday, January 19, 2008
What Do You Know About Bears?
By Ray Cunningham
First of all, a bear is, often, a large flesh-eating animal, but may also lean toward a vegetarian diet, when prey is scarce.
It may be found both in warm and cold climates.
It has a solid body, covered with shaggy fur, is supported by thick legs and has a short tail. The complete sole of the foot lies flat upon the ground and the claws are perfect for both digging and climbing. Found in Asia, Europe and America; those from the cooler climes seem to be more savage and less happy eating just vegetable foods than bears living in warmer areas.
Brown bears are plentifully found throughout Europe and Asia; they eat fruit and vegetables, as well as animal food. They climb and swim with ease. At the beginning of winter, they search for a cave, or hollow and sleep until spring. The babies are mostly born at some time during the winter.
The American black bear is thought by many to be a variety of the brown bear. It is very fond of honey and is much less dangerous than the grizzly. Closely related to it is the Syrian bear and the Indian white bear of the Himalayas. The former is often mentioned in the Bible. Remember, black bears are strong climbers.
The North American grizzly is a very strong and fierce animal, chiefly found in the Rocky Mountains. The fur is dark brown, but somewhat grey around the head. The claws are long and curved. It is the most savage of bears and is said to be strong enough to drag along a buffalo carcass.
Many grizzly attacks on people, are purely defensive in nature, and by playing possum, you may show the bear that you are not a threat and escape a severe mauling, or death. Brown and grizzly bears are actually classified as the same species, 'Ursus arctos '.
Other bears are:
The Malayan sun bear is the smallest bear family member.
The Sloth Bear is found throughout India from the Himalayan foothills to the Southern part of India.
The spectacled bear of the Andes mountains is a small animal about three and a half feet long, with black fur and curious light coloured rings around the eyes.
The white polar bears of the Arctic region are the largest of all bears, often measuring 9 ft in length and are very strong. They swim very rapidly and live largely on fish. They are more apt to attack man than any other variety. Polar Bears are classified under the Latin mane of, Ursus maritimus, It is the largest meat-eating hunter.
The males do not sleep in the winter, but the females stay in sheltered places throughout the winter and their young are often born through this period. For this reason, bears weigh least in the spring or early summer.
Ray Cunningham, loves all animals and birds.
Has built a new web site at http://www.raygc.com/Wildlife/
Where these and other beautiful and exclusive, wildlife prints, may be obtained.
He is also adding to his Squidoo sites, where he hopes to show you some videos of these and other animals. Go here: http://www.squidoo.com/Bears-
First of all, a bear is, often, a large flesh-eating animal, but may also lean toward a vegetarian diet, when prey is scarce.
It may be found both in warm and cold climates.
It has a solid body, covered with shaggy fur, is supported by thick legs and has a short tail. The complete sole of the foot lies flat upon the ground and the claws are perfect for both digging and climbing. Found in Asia, Europe and America; those from the cooler climes seem to be more savage and less happy eating just vegetable foods than bears living in warmer areas.
Brown bears are plentifully found throughout Europe and Asia; they eat fruit and vegetables, as well as animal food. They climb and swim with ease. At the beginning of winter, they search for a cave, or hollow and sleep until spring. The babies are mostly born at some time during the winter.
The American black bear is thought by many to be a variety of the brown bear. It is very fond of honey and is much less dangerous than the grizzly. Closely related to it is the Syrian bear and the Indian white bear of the Himalayas. The former is often mentioned in the Bible. Remember, black bears are strong climbers.
The North American grizzly is a very strong and fierce animal, chiefly found in the Rocky Mountains. The fur is dark brown, but somewhat grey around the head. The claws are long and curved. It is the most savage of bears and is said to be strong enough to drag along a buffalo carcass.
Many grizzly attacks on people, are purely defensive in nature, and by playing possum, you may show the bear that you are not a threat and escape a severe mauling, or death. Brown and grizzly bears are actually classified as the same species, 'Ursus arctos '.
Other bears are:
The Malayan sun bear is the smallest bear family member.
The Sloth Bear is found throughout India from the Himalayan foothills to the Southern part of India.
The spectacled bear of the Andes mountains is a small animal about three and a half feet long, with black fur and curious light coloured rings around the eyes.
The white polar bears of the Arctic region are the largest of all bears, often measuring 9 ft in length and are very strong. They swim very rapidly and live largely on fish. They are more apt to attack man than any other variety. Polar Bears are classified under the Latin mane of, Ursus maritimus, It is the largest meat-eating hunter.
The males do not sleep in the winter, but the females stay in sheltered places throughout the winter and their young are often born through this period. For this reason, bears weigh least in the spring or early summer.
Ray Cunningham, loves all animals and birds.
Has built a new web site at http://www.raygc.com/Wildlife/
Where these and other beautiful and exclusive, wildlife prints, may be obtained.
He is also adding to his Squidoo sites, where he hopes to show you some videos of these and other animals. Go here: http://www.squidoo.com/Bears-
Thursday, January 17, 2008
Care of Pet Rats
By Barry Mcgee
For centuries, rats have been much maligned by "civilized" society. Like mice, rats are unjustly accused of being "slimy," "disease-ridden," and "filthy." Urban legends tell of rats the size of dogs running rampant in the sewers and attacking people from dark alleys. The truth of the matter is, they are some of the cleanest, healthiest animals you could ask for. They require no vaccinations as they carry no communicable diseases. Indeed, the Black Plague of the Dark Ages was not caused directly by rats but rather by fleas that lived on the rats. Although the truth about rats is slowly overshadowing the myths and wives' tales, many people still operate under the assumption that they are free-agents and, therefore, requiring of little care. While taking care of pet rats doesn't involve unorthodox amounts of time or money, they are extremely intelligent, affectionate creatures who will either thrive or fail depending on the type of care they receive. Help your pet thrive by heeding the following advice.
First and foremost, rats are not solitary creatures. A lonely one is a recipe for disaster, both physically and mentally. For that reason, you should always buy a same-sex pair when you go to purchase your new friends. Two can live quite comfortably in a large wire cage made specifically for large rodents, especially if it contains several levels for your pets to explore and climb about on. Unlike their smaller rodent counterparts, rats do not need an exercise wheel. You will, however, need to add a large hanging water bottle, a heavy food crock, and a nesting box to your pet rat care checklist. Try to avoid wooden or cheap plastic nest boxes unless you want to replace them frequently, as your pets will gnaw them to smithereens. Speaking of gnawing, rats are chewers by nature and should be provided with pet-safe wood blocks and other toys that are meant specifically for the enjoyment of chewing rodents. If you decide to let your friends out for supervised playtime, be sure that any dangerous chewables (like electric cords) are out of reach! As for bedding, avoid pine or cedar shavings and opt instead for hardwood shavings such as those made of aspen. Clean their cage thoroughly at least once a week, changing the bedding and scrubbing down the toys and accessories.
Rats enjoy a varied diet, but again, as with mice, avoid feeding them cheese. They love dry cereal (no sugar, please!), fresh veggies, fresh fruit, and whole wheat bread and crackers. A food made specifically for these creatures should also always be provided, as it will offer a complete source of nutrition in addition to the other foods you choose to feed. Avoid feeding your pet anything that might be considered junk food, and remove any food from the cage that might spoil if it remains uneaten for too long.
As was previously mentioned, rats are extremely intelligent creatures, therefore, proper care of your friends requires intellectual stimulation in the form of interactive play and training. Many rats will love perching on your shoulder as you do chores, watch television, knit, or even take a walk around the block. They also enjoy riding in pockets and fanny packs. They can also be litter trained and taught to come when you call their name. While rats are, by nature, nocturnal, they are also highly adaptive and will adjust their sleeping and waking schedules around your interaction with them. Thus, many of them will be awake and ready to play when they hear you come in the door from work or school.
If caring for a pet rat sounds like a positive, enlightening experience, then it's time to put some effort into finding the perfect one (or preferably, two) for you. Due to the increasing popularity of rats as pets, breeders are cropping up everywhere, and rats can often be found for sale in the newspaper. You should also consider checking to see if there's a rat rescue near your hometown, or you could call the local animal shelter to ask if they ever offer them for adoption. Pet stores are also a good option, provided the ones available are healthy and well cared for. Spread the good word and show the world you know the truth about pet rats by becoming the proud new owner of a delightful pair or passel of these fascinating, affectionate creatures.
About The Author: Barry S. Mcgee is a pet enthusiast. His site at: http://www.squidoo.com/petcareonline provides advice and information on all aspects of pet care for all types of pets including dogs, cats, ferrets and others and makes it easier for pet owners to choose the best solution for their companion's care.
For answers to all your pet care questions, please visit: http://www.squidoo.com/petcareonline
For centuries, rats have been much maligned by "civilized" society. Like mice, rats are unjustly accused of being "slimy," "disease-ridden," and "filthy." Urban legends tell of rats the size of dogs running rampant in the sewers and attacking people from dark alleys. The truth of the matter is, they are some of the cleanest, healthiest animals you could ask for. They require no vaccinations as they carry no communicable diseases. Indeed, the Black Plague of the Dark Ages was not caused directly by rats but rather by fleas that lived on the rats. Although the truth about rats is slowly overshadowing the myths and wives' tales, many people still operate under the assumption that they are free-agents and, therefore, requiring of little care. While taking care of pet rats doesn't involve unorthodox amounts of time or money, they are extremely intelligent, affectionate creatures who will either thrive or fail depending on the type of care they receive. Help your pet thrive by heeding the following advice.
First and foremost, rats are not solitary creatures. A lonely one is a recipe for disaster, both physically and mentally. For that reason, you should always buy a same-sex pair when you go to purchase your new friends. Two can live quite comfortably in a large wire cage made specifically for large rodents, especially if it contains several levels for your pets to explore and climb about on. Unlike their smaller rodent counterparts, rats do not need an exercise wheel. You will, however, need to add a large hanging water bottle, a heavy food crock, and a nesting box to your pet rat care checklist. Try to avoid wooden or cheap plastic nest boxes unless you want to replace them frequently, as your pets will gnaw them to smithereens. Speaking of gnawing, rats are chewers by nature and should be provided with pet-safe wood blocks and other toys that are meant specifically for the enjoyment of chewing rodents. If you decide to let your friends out for supervised playtime, be sure that any dangerous chewables (like electric cords) are out of reach! As for bedding, avoid pine or cedar shavings and opt instead for hardwood shavings such as those made of aspen. Clean their cage thoroughly at least once a week, changing the bedding and scrubbing down the toys and accessories.
Rats enjoy a varied diet, but again, as with mice, avoid feeding them cheese. They love dry cereal (no sugar, please!), fresh veggies, fresh fruit, and whole wheat bread and crackers. A food made specifically for these creatures should also always be provided, as it will offer a complete source of nutrition in addition to the other foods you choose to feed. Avoid feeding your pet anything that might be considered junk food, and remove any food from the cage that might spoil if it remains uneaten for too long.
As was previously mentioned, rats are extremely intelligent creatures, therefore, proper care of your friends requires intellectual stimulation in the form of interactive play and training. Many rats will love perching on your shoulder as you do chores, watch television, knit, or even take a walk around the block. They also enjoy riding in pockets and fanny packs. They can also be litter trained and taught to come when you call their name. While rats are, by nature, nocturnal, they are also highly adaptive and will adjust their sleeping and waking schedules around your interaction with them. Thus, many of them will be awake and ready to play when they hear you come in the door from work or school.
If caring for a pet rat sounds like a positive, enlightening experience, then it's time to put some effort into finding the perfect one (or preferably, two) for you. Due to the increasing popularity of rats as pets, breeders are cropping up everywhere, and rats can often be found for sale in the newspaper. You should also consider checking to see if there's a rat rescue near your hometown, or you could call the local animal shelter to ask if they ever offer them for adoption. Pet stores are also a good option, provided the ones available are healthy and well cared for. Spread the good word and show the world you know the truth about pet rats by becoming the proud new owner of a delightful pair or passel of these fascinating, affectionate creatures.
About The Author: Barry S. Mcgee is a pet enthusiast. His site at: http://www.squidoo.com/petcareonline provides advice and information on all aspects of pet care for all types of pets including dogs, cats, ferrets and others and makes it easier for pet owners to choose the best solution for their companion's care.
For answers to all your pet care questions, please visit: http://www.squidoo.com/petcareonline
Tuesday, January 15, 2008
What Are Heartworms And How Do Pets Get Heartworm Disease?
By Victoria M. Brown
Heartworms are parasites that attack an animal's heart and cause congenital heart problems if not detected. They are transmitted from animal to animal, after one is bit by an infected mosquito. Heartworms normally live in the right ventricle of the heart and in the nearby blood vessels.
Adult male and female worms that are living in your pet's heart produce millions of baby parasites that circulate through your pet's body. When a mosquito bites an animal with heartworms, it sucks up the baby worms and transmits them to the next animal it bites. Those worms now live in the heart of the newly infected animal, where they become adults and begin to reproduce.
When the baby worms are transmitted into the new animal, it takes approximately 6-7 months for them to become reproducing adult worms. They are only detectable when they are adults, so an animal needs to be infected for at least 6 months before it can be diagnosed through blood tests or X-rays.
Since heartworms can be spread easily from animal to animal, it is important to use preventative measures to protect your pet. Veterinarians recommend heartworm prevention for all dogs and as knowledge on heartworms in cats is increasing, prevention for cats is also becoming common.
In order to protect your pets from heartworm disease:
� Make sure you have your pet tested for heartworms before you begin to give them preventatives- unless they are less than 7 months old. If your pet is over 7 months and is started on preventative heartworm medication without initial testing, they are at risk for serious reactions to the medication.
� Puppies should be given a heartworm preventative by the time they are 8 weeks old.
� Puppies should be tested once they are 7 months old even if they are taking preventative medication.
� Dogs should be tested on a regular basis. Testing should be done every 2-3 years if the dog is regularly given the preventative medication, and every year if any doses of the medication were missed.
� In cats, one heartworm can cause sudden death, but it is difficult to test in cats. You can start the preventative medication without an initial test.
� Cats do not display the same symptoms as dogs. The symptoms in cats are similar to those of other common cat diseases. It is important to remember the possibility that such symptoms can be because of heartworm.
It is important to protect your pets from heartworms because it can be a fatal disease. However, if they are detected in your dog, there are curable treatments to use. A series of injections cause the adult heartworms living in the heart to die. The worms then continually break up into smaller pieces until they are small enough for the body to absorb. While this is happening, the dog's heart is working harder than usual, so it is important that the dog does not do any strenuous exercise for 5 weeks. After 5 weeks, the dog is given a one day treatment to rid its body of the baby worms. Be sure that your dog receives a follow up test 6 months after the treatment to ensure that the heartworms are gone. There are currently no heartworm treatments for cats yet. The best way to treat a cat infected with heartworms is to begin using preventative medications to help alleviate your cat's symptoms.
Corner Animal Hospital : Online Pet Pharmacy & Veterinary Service http://www.corneranimal.com
Buy the Medications Your Pet Needs With Confidence. Owned by Ivy League Educated Dr. Dorothy Hayes and Dr. Judith Lombardi Daniels. "We treat your pets as family members. Their health and comfort are our primary concern."
Visit our Blog to read more, comment, and/or ask questions at ( http://corneranimal.wordpress.com)
Submitted by Victoria at NewSunGraphics (www.NewSunGraphics.com)
Heartworms are parasites that attack an animal's heart and cause congenital heart problems if not detected. They are transmitted from animal to animal, after one is bit by an infected mosquito. Heartworms normally live in the right ventricle of the heart and in the nearby blood vessels.
Adult male and female worms that are living in your pet's heart produce millions of baby parasites that circulate through your pet's body. When a mosquito bites an animal with heartworms, it sucks up the baby worms and transmits them to the next animal it bites. Those worms now live in the heart of the newly infected animal, where they become adults and begin to reproduce.
When the baby worms are transmitted into the new animal, it takes approximately 6-7 months for them to become reproducing adult worms. They are only detectable when they are adults, so an animal needs to be infected for at least 6 months before it can be diagnosed through blood tests or X-rays.
Since heartworms can be spread easily from animal to animal, it is important to use preventative measures to protect your pet. Veterinarians recommend heartworm prevention for all dogs and as knowledge on heartworms in cats is increasing, prevention for cats is also becoming common.
In order to protect your pets from heartworm disease:
� Make sure you have your pet tested for heartworms before you begin to give them preventatives- unless they are less than 7 months old. If your pet is over 7 months and is started on preventative heartworm medication without initial testing, they are at risk for serious reactions to the medication.
� Puppies should be given a heartworm preventative by the time they are 8 weeks old.
� Puppies should be tested once they are 7 months old even if they are taking preventative medication.
� Dogs should be tested on a regular basis. Testing should be done every 2-3 years if the dog is regularly given the preventative medication, and every year if any doses of the medication were missed.
� In cats, one heartworm can cause sudden death, but it is difficult to test in cats. You can start the preventative medication without an initial test.
� Cats do not display the same symptoms as dogs. The symptoms in cats are similar to those of other common cat diseases. It is important to remember the possibility that such symptoms can be because of heartworm.
It is important to protect your pets from heartworms because it can be a fatal disease. However, if they are detected in your dog, there are curable treatments to use. A series of injections cause the adult heartworms living in the heart to die. The worms then continually break up into smaller pieces until they are small enough for the body to absorb. While this is happening, the dog's heart is working harder than usual, so it is important that the dog does not do any strenuous exercise for 5 weeks. After 5 weeks, the dog is given a one day treatment to rid its body of the baby worms. Be sure that your dog receives a follow up test 6 months after the treatment to ensure that the heartworms are gone. There are currently no heartworm treatments for cats yet. The best way to treat a cat infected with heartworms is to begin using preventative medications to help alleviate your cat's symptoms.
Corner Animal Hospital : Online Pet Pharmacy & Veterinary Service http://www.corneranimal.com
Buy the Medications Your Pet Needs With Confidence. Owned by Ivy League Educated Dr. Dorothy Hayes and Dr. Judith Lombardi Daniels. "We treat your pets as family members. Their health and comfort are our primary concern."
Visit our Blog to read more, comment, and/or ask questions at ( http://corneranimal.wordpress.com)
Submitted by Victoria at NewSunGraphics (www.NewSunGraphics.com)
Sunday, January 13, 2008
Nervous Pet Rat? How To Help Her Become More Confident
By Catherine Smith
Patience is a virtue when dealing with nervous rats. A little understanding goes a long way. If your new rat hasn't been handled much by the pet shop/breeder or rescue centre you got her from, she will be nervous, but don't panic, you can still build up a wonderful relationship with your new pet.
Let her settle in
Give your rat a couple of days to settle into her new home. Some rats take to their new environment straight away, whilst others need a little more time. Make sure she has somewhere to hide in her new cage, so that she doesn't feel overwhelmed by all the changes. Speak to her through the cage, so that she gets used to your voice. Don't feed treats through the bars, as this may encourage her to nip your fingers.
Let her come to you
Sit next to the cage, with the cage door open. Be quiet and patient. You can even read a book. Let your rat come out of the cage to investigate. It may take a while, but you will probably find she will come and sniff you and explore her new environment. Have a few tasty treats on your lap to reward her with, if she manages to make it all the way to your lap, let her take a treat and talk to her in a soft, reassuring voice. You will find she gains confidence over time.
Make her feel safe
You want your ratty friend to associate you with safety. She will see your hands as these big, blurry shapes coming towards her and that sounds pretty scary. Always pick her up to put her back into her cage, so that she associates you with going to a place of safety. Have her food ready for her when she returns to the cage. She will think, "Hey everytime I go out, when I come back there is food for me".
b>Give her time
I have two beautiful boy rats, Billy and Ringo, who had never been handled before they came to me. It has taken 4 months of quietly and patiently building up their confidence, before they truly trusted me. This is an extreme case. It doesn't usually take this long. Now the boys love tummy tickles and playing chase with my hand and grooming my hair. It shows what can be achieved if you just give them time. Try not to make any sudden movements or loud noises, especially in the first week.
All rats can be lovely companions if they are just given a chance. Put yourself in your new ratties position and see how scary it could be. If you rat is a rescue and has never been handled, or a lab rat that may have been abused, you are changing their lives for the better and eventually they will understand this and hopefully learn to love you, as much as you love them. http://www.RatsRatsRats.com
Catherine Smith 2007
Check out my website for everything you've ever wanted to know about pet rats. From training to toys, housing to health. You can even go shopping for your ratty friend.
Patience is a virtue when dealing with nervous rats. A little understanding goes a long way. If your new rat hasn't been handled much by the pet shop/breeder or rescue centre you got her from, she will be nervous, but don't panic, you can still build up a wonderful relationship with your new pet.
Let her settle in
Give your rat a couple of days to settle into her new home. Some rats take to their new environment straight away, whilst others need a little more time. Make sure she has somewhere to hide in her new cage, so that she doesn't feel overwhelmed by all the changes. Speak to her through the cage, so that she gets used to your voice. Don't feed treats through the bars, as this may encourage her to nip your fingers.
Let her come to you
Sit next to the cage, with the cage door open. Be quiet and patient. You can even read a book. Let your rat come out of the cage to investigate. It may take a while, but you will probably find she will come and sniff you and explore her new environment. Have a few tasty treats on your lap to reward her with, if she manages to make it all the way to your lap, let her take a treat and talk to her in a soft, reassuring voice. You will find she gains confidence over time.
Make her feel safe
You want your ratty friend to associate you with safety. She will see your hands as these big, blurry shapes coming towards her and that sounds pretty scary. Always pick her up to put her back into her cage, so that she associates you with going to a place of safety. Have her food ready for her when she returns to the cage. She will think, "Hey everytime I go out, when I come back there is food for me".
b>Give her time
I have two beautiful boy rats, Billy and Ringo, who had never been handled before they came to me. It has taken 4 months of quietly and patiently building up their confidence, before they truly trusted me. This is an extreme case. It doesn't usually take this long. Now the boys love tummy tickles and playing chase with my hand and grooming my hair. It shows what can be achieved if you just give them time. Try not to make any sudden movements or loud noises, especially in the first week.
All rats can be lovely companions if they are just given a chance. Put yourself in your new ratties position and see how scary it could be. If you rat is a rescue and has never been handled, or a lab rat that may have been abused, you are changing their lives for the better and eventually they will understand this and hopefully learn to love you, as much as you love them. http://www.RatsRatsRats.com
Catherine Smith 2007
Check out my website for everything you've ever wanted to know about pet rats. From training to toys, housing to health. You can even go shopping for your ratty friend.
Friday, January 11, 2008
Enjoy Your Job More by Bringing a Pet to Work
By Bob Poole
I was sitting in my office the other day struggling with putting a concept for new business start-ups on paper when I kept getting 'distracted' by one of my two dogs. He was rolling on my foot sending out a message to "Please, rub my belly." It was then that I realized that working from home gives me the best job benefit I could want; I get to be with my dogs and cats all day. I stopped writing and started belly rubbing and pretty soon I felt totally relaxed and ready to tackle my project. Bucca, my youngest Shih Tzu, decided to stay with me and laid down to nap at the top of my stairs so he could also 'guard' me in case anyone tried to get into my office. Most of the time his guarding takes on the role of keeping the cats on a lower stair until one of them makes a mad dash at him and he lets them go by.
Animals are wonderful friends and sometimes I get lost in watching them interact with each other. If you have a pet of your own, I am sure you know what it is like to be welcomed home by them; to have them be there for you when you're having a bad day and to lift your heart. Many companies now allow pets (mostly dogs) to come to the office. They are putting in dog parks and the dogs love being with both other dogs and people. While it may not be something everyone wants, companies are finding that employees enjoy the dogs and it is fun to have them around. Some retail stores claim that their average sale increased when they started bringing in their dogs. In my experience, the most successful pet friendly companies start right from their beginning with allowing dogs and/or other pets. As the company grows it attracts employees who view bringing their pet to work as a benefit and you don't have the problem of someone not liking dogs or being allergic or having to adapt to a new situation.
However, before you decide to institute a "bring your pet to work" program or run out to the local pet store to buy yourself a dog, I would like you to think about something. Every year between 3 and 4 million dogs and cats are euthanized. Thousands are abandoned, abused, and killed each day. So before you become part of the problem, why not visit your local shelter and talk to them about a dog visit program. Many shelters would enjoy bringing around one or two of their dogs for visits which would allow employees to decide if they like having pets around the office, factory, etc. If you do find a shelter to work with you on this kind of a program, don't forget to make a nice donation to them. Many struggle to care for all the animals they get and they can always use your help. If you're not ready to start a program at work, you can still volunteer your services to a shelter. You'll feel great that you did and the animals will love you for it.
You can make a difference in the lives of many dogs and cats. And, for all the value you add to their lives, I promise they will add even more to yours.
�2007 Bob Poole - All Rights Reserved
Poole Consulting Group
The Sales & Marketing Guru�
31 Bryant Drive
Perkasie, PA 18944
215-258-3405 - office
215-258-3406 - fax http://www.PooleConsultingGroup.com
Creator of "Listen First - Sell Later"� Marketing & Sales Programs
Founding Member of the International Center for Professional Speaking of The National Speakers Association
I was sitting in my office the other day struggling with putting a concept for new business start-ups on paper when I kept getting 'distracted' by one of my two dogs. He was rolling on my foot sending out a message to "Please, rub my belly." It was then that I realized that working from home gives me the best job benefit I could want; I get to be with my dogs and cats all day. I stopped writing and started belly rubbing and pretty soon I felt totally relaxed and ready to tackle my project. Bucca, my youngest Shih Tzu, decided to stay with me and laid down to nap at the top of my stairs so he could also 'guard' me in case anyone tried to get into my office. Most of the time his guarding takes on the role of keeping the cats on a lower stair until one of them makes a mad dash at him and he lets them go by.
Animals are wonderful friends and sometimes I get lost in watching them interact with each other. If you have a pet of your own, I am sure you know what it is like to be welcomed home by them; to have them be there for you when you're having a bad day and to lift your heart. Many companies now allow pets (mostly dogs) to come to the office. They are putting in dog parks and the dogs love being with both other dogs and people. While it may not be something everyone wants, companies are finding that employees enjoy the dogs and it is fun to have them around. Some retail stores claim that their average sale increased when they started bringing in their dogs. In my experience, the most successful pet friendly companies start right from their beginning with allowing dogs and/or other pets. As the company grows it attracts employees who view bringing their pet to work as a benefit and you don't have the problem of someone not liking dogs or being allergic or having to adapt to a new situation.
However, before you decide to institute a "bring your pet to work" program or run out to the local pet store to buy yourself a dog, I would like you to think about something. Every year between 3 and 4 million dogs and cats are euthanized. Thousands are abandoned, abused, and killed each day. So before you become part of the problem, why not visit your local shelter and talk to them about a dog visit program. Many shelters would enjoy bringing around one or two of their dogs for visits which would allow employees to decide if they like having pets around the office, factory, etc. If you do find a shelter to work with you on this kind of a program, don't forget to make a nice donation to them. Many struggle to care for all the animals they get and they can always use your help. If you're not ready to start a program at work, you can still volunteer your services to a shelter. You'll feel great that you did and the animals will love you for it.
You can make a difference in the lives of many dogs and cats. And, for all the value you add to their lives, I promise they will add even more to yours.
�2007 Bob Poole - All Rights Reserved
Poole Consulting Group
The Sales & Marketing Guru�
31 Bryant Drive
Perkasie, PA 18944
215-258-3405 - office
215-258-3406 - fax http://www.PooleConsultingGroup.com
Creator of "Listen First - Sell Later"� Marketing & Sales Programs
Founding Member of the International Center for Professional Speaking of The National Speakers Association
Wednesday, January 9, 2008
"While I'm Away" - When You Travel, and Your Animal Companions Stay Home
By Nedda Wittels
Does your cat ignore you for the first 24 hours after you return from a trip? Does your dog or bird stop eating while you are gone? Do animals that normally get along begin to fight? Do they start to get upset when your suitcase comes out? Do you worry about them when you have to travel?
It does not take telepathy for our animal friends to notice that a suitcase has been pulled from the closet. They know this means something is about to happen that affects their lives, but they don't know what to expect each time.
Setting expectations helps reduce stress for everyone. Here's how to make things easier for yourself and your animals.
"Before You Leave" Technique
While you may not believe that you are telepathic, you can still communicate with your animals about your trip. If you think your animals may have questions, ask an Animal Communicator to help you with this conversation.
The animals are all telepathic, so if you choose to do this yourself, use mental pictures and take the time to fill in details.
1) Be physically present with the animal, sitting down if appropriate.
2) Close your eyes for a moment, take 3 deep breaths, and tell yourself to relax as you exhale.
3) Get the animal's attention by saying the animal's name.
4) Just as you would tell a spouse or partner about a trip you are taking, tell your animal friends. Include details and use mental pictures or images to help get the message across.
a) Tell them you are going away and the purpose of your trip.
Animals care about us and want us to take care of ourselves. When you explain why you are taking a trip, you can say:
VACATION: "I'm going to go on a vacation where I cannot take you. I need to rest and relax and have no responsibilities for a short time. Unfortunately, there is no way you can come along." Hold a picture in your mind of the place you are planning to visit.
BUSINESS: "I have to take a trip for my job. While I'm away, I'll be working." Hold a picture in your mind of you at work.
b) Tell them when you are leaving and when you are returning.
Animals understand concepts of time. They know what a day/night cycle is. They also understand human concepts of a week. Animals who live outside understand moon cycles. You might say, "Today is Wednesday. I'm leaving in two days, on Friday morning, and I will be back 4 days after that, on Tuesday evening."
c) Tell them who is going to take care of them. You can say:
KENNEL: "You will be staying at the same kennel you stayed at last time. Remember what a good time you had?" Have a picture in your mind of what the place looked like, followed by an image of a person at that place whom your animal really liked. (Make sure this person is still working there if you tell them to expect so see that person.) Remind them about the activities there that they like.
STAYING WITH A FRIEND: "You'll be staying at home. You'll get to play with is going to or to take of you."
d) Fill in more details about their care while you are gone.
Reassure the animals that they will be fed their normal food, supplements, and medicine.
Tell them what the caretaker will do: groom them, take them for a walk, play with them, clean their cage or litter box, whatever. You can say: "I'll make sure you have your own food, bed, and toys."
e) Tell them you will miss them and be sending them love from your heart while you are gone.
Use the "While Traveling" technique described below to communicate with your animal while you are away.
"While Traveling" Technique
Each day while traveling, you can communicate with your animal friends, sending love, reassurance, and updates (mental postcards) about your trip. You will probably find this is a relaxing moment for yourself. Your animals will appreciate your daily contact.
* Lie on a bed or sit comfortably in a chair or cross legged.
* Take 3 deep breaths, and on each exhalation, imagine any stress you are feeling is flowing out with your breath.
* Breathe normally, and pay attention to your breath, watch it going in and out for a minute or two.
* See, feel, allow, imagine you are in your heart center (a space in the middle of your chest).
* Just be in your heart center and connect with the Unconditional Love that lives there in unlimited quantities.
* See, feel, allow, imagine your animal friend in your heart center with you.
* Say hello to him/her and imagine yourself holding them as if you were actually physically present.
* Imagine stroking or petting or grooming them for as long as you wish.
* Talk to your animal friend, just as if you were with them. Tell them about your day. Tell them how much you love and miss them. Remind them you will be home in ___ (fill in number) of days. Tell them you will "visit" them again tomorrow.
When clients of mine have used these techniques, they have consistently reported success.
Kathy has many birds and a regular helper to take care of them. While visiting Hawaii, her helper called to say that Pidge, a rescued wild pigeon, had stopped eating. Kathy asked me what to do. When birds stop eating they can sicken and die very quickly. I gave Kathy the "While Traveling" instructions, which Kathy immediately began to use. Kathy's helper saw an immediately change in Pidge the very first time Kathy used the technique: Pidge became more relaxed and began to eat. Everyone was relieved and Kathy was able to enjoy the rest of her trip while "visiting" Pidge daily.
Whenever Elaine went on a 3-day weekend with a friend, her cat, Marie, would ignore her for 24 hours after she returned. I suggested Elaine follow the instructions for "Before You Leave", telling Marie where she was going and with whom, when she would leave and return, and about Marie's care while Elaine was gone. When Elaine tried this, for the first time ever, Marie didn't "scold" Elaine when she returned. Instead the cat greeted Elaine as if she had been gone only a few hours, rubbed against her legs, sat in her lap during the evening, and slept with her in bed that night, all of which was their normal routine.
Annette had been desensitizing Skip, her rescued German Shepard, to get used to the idea that staying at a kennel can be fun and is not abandonment. Still, Skip was having a difficult time with it, and Annette had a trip to take where the dog couldn't go. I suggested to Annette that she use both the "Before You Leave" and "While Traveling" techniques, which Annette was willing to do. As a result, she now has a dog whose separation anxiety is dramatically reduced and Annette is able to go away whenever she needs to travel.
If you have to be away on a trip, give these methods a try. You may find that not only are your animals feeling better about your being away, but you, yourself, may feel more comfortable with the idea of traveling and leaving your animal family members at home.
Rev. Nedda Wittels, M.A., M.S., is a telepathic Animal Communicator and Shamballa Master/Teacher offering private sessions in telepathic communication and in healing for humans and animals. She also offers Spiritual Empowerment Sessions for people awakening to new consciousness. Nedda teaches workshops in telepathic communication with all species and in Shamballa Multidimensional Healing. She can be reached at 860.651.5771, neddaw@sbcglobal.net, and www.raysofhealinglight.com
Does your cat ignore you for the first 24 hours after you return from a trip? Does your dog or bird stop eating while you are gone? Do animals that normally get along begin to fight? Do they start to get upset when your suitcase comes out? Do you worry about them when you have to travel?
It does not take telepathy for our animal friends to notice that a suitcase has been pulled from the closet. They know this means something is about to happen that affects their lives, but they don't know what to expect each time.
Setting expectations helps reduce stress for everyone. Here's how to make things easier for yourself and your animals.
"Before You Leave" Technique
While you may not believe that you are telepathic, you can still communicate with your animals about your trip. If you think your animals may have questions, ask an Animal Communicator to help you with this conversation.
The animals are all telepathic, so if you choose to do this yourself, use mental pictures and take the time to fill in details.
1) Be physically present with the animal, sitting down if appropriate.
2) Close your eyes for a moment, take 3 deep breaths, and tell yourself to relax as you exhale.
3) Get the animal's attention by saying the animal's name.
4) Just as you would tell a spouse or partner about a trip you are taking, tell your animal friends. Include details and use mental pictures or images to help get the message across.
a) Tell them you are going away and the purpose of your trip.
Animals care about us and want us to take care of ourselves. When you explain why you are taking a trip, you can say:
VACATION: "I'm going to go on a vacation where I cannot take you. I need to rest and relax and have no responsibilities for a short time. Unfortunately, there is no way you can come along." Hold a picture in your mind of the place you are planning to visit.
BUSINESS: "I have to take a trip for my job. While I'm away, I'll be working." Hold a picture in your mind of you at work.
b) Tell them when you are leaving and when you are returning.
Animals understand concepts of time. They know what a day/night cycle is. They also understand human concepts of a week. Animals who live outside understand moon cycles. You might say, "Today is Wednesday. I'm leaving in two days, on Friday morning, and I will be back 4 days after that, on Tuesday evening."
c) Tell them who is going to take care of them. You can say:
KENNEL: "You will be staying at the same kennel you stayed at last time. Remember what a good time you had?" Have a picture in your mind of what the place looked like, followed by an image of a person at that place whom your animal really liked. (Make sure this person is still working there if you tell them to expect so see that person.) Remind them about the activities there that they like.
STAYING WITH A FRIEND: "You'll be staying at home. You'll get to play with is going to or to take of you."
d) Fill in more details about their care while you are gone.
Reassure the animals that they will be fed their normal food, supplements, and medicine.
Tell them what the caretaker will do: groom them, take them for a walk, play with them, clean their cage or litter box, whatever. You can say: "I'll make sure you have your own food, bed, and toys."
e) Tell them you will miss them and be sending them love from your heart while you are gone.
Use the "While Traveling" technique described below to communicate with your animal while you are away.
"While Traveling" Technique
Each day while traveling, you can communicate with your animal friends, sending love, reassurance, and updates (mental postcards) about your trip. You will probably find this is a relaxing moment for yourself. Your animals will appreciate your daily contact.
* Lie on a bed or sit comfortably in a chair or cross legged.
* Take 3 deep breaths, and on each exhalation, imagine any stress you are feeling is flowing out with your breath.
* Breathe normally, and pay attention to your breath, watch it going in and out for a minute or two.
* See, feel, allow, imagine you are in your heart center (a space in the middle of your chest).
* Just be in your heart center and connect with the Unconditional Love that lives there in unlimited quantities.
* See, feel, allow, imagine your animal friend in your heart center with you.
* Say hello to him/her and imagine yourself holding them as if you were actually physically present.
* Imagine stroking or petting or grooming them for as long as you wish.
* Talk to your animal friend, just as if you were with them. Tell them about your day. Tell them how much you love and miss them. Remind them you will be home in ___ (fill in number) of days. Tell them you will "visit" them again tomorrow.
When clients of mine have used these techniques, they have consistently reported success.
Kathy has many birds and a regular helper to take care of them. While visiting Hawaii, her helper called to say that Pidge, a rescued wild pigeon, had stopped eating. Kathy asked me what to do. When birds stop eating they can sicken and die very quickly. I gave Kathy the "While Traveling" instructions, which Kathy immediately began to use. Kathy's helper saw an immediately change in Pidge the very first time Kathy used the technique: Pidge became more relaxed and began to eat. Everyone was relieved and Kathy was able to enjoy the rest of her trip while "visiting" Pidge daily.
Whenever Elaine went on a 3-day weekend with a friend, her cat, Marie, would ignore her for 24 hours after she returned. I suggested Elaine follow the instructions for "Before You Leave", telling Marie where she was going and with whom, when she would leave and return, and about Marie's care while Elaine was gone. When Elaine tried this, for the first time ever, Marie didn't "scold" Elaine when she returned. Instead the cat greeted Elaine as if she had been gone only a few hours, rubbed against her legs, sat in her lap during the evening, and slept with her in bed that night, all of which was their normal routine.
Annette had been desensitizing Skip, her rescued German Shepard, to get used to the idea that staying at a kennel can be fun and is not abandonment. Still, Skip was having a difficult time with it, and Annette had a trip to take where the dog couldn't go. I suggested to Annette that she use both the "Before You Leave" and "While Traveling" techniques, which Annette was willing to do. As a result, she now has a dog whose separation anxiety is dramatically reduced and Annette is able to go away whenever she needs to travel.
If you have to be away on a trip, give these methods a try. You may find that not only are your animals feeling better about your being away, but you, yourself, may feel more comfortable with the idea of traveling and leaving your animal family members at home.
Rev. Nedda Wittels, M.A., M.S., is a telepathic Animal Communicator and Shamballa Master/Teacher offering private sessions in telepathic communication and in healing for humans and animals. She also offers Spiritual Empowerment Sessions for people awakening to new consciousness. Nedda teaches workshops in telepathic communication with all species and in Shamballa Multidimensional Healing. She can be reached at 860.651.5771, neddaw@sbcglobal.net, and www.raysofhealinglight.com
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)