By Jeannie Palmer
Carefully blended for your pet's sensitive skin, bath salts can be relaxing, aid in promoting circulation and help to soothe aching muscles and joints. Think of how therapeutic you find bath salts and imagine that same relief for your pet.
As our pets mature they may become afflicted with arthritis, painful joints or muscle swelling. Relaxing in a soothing bath made from dead sea salt, clay, Eucalyptus and Tea Tree Oil can provide some relief for our furry friends.
Eucalyptus and Tea Tree Oil are recognized as being effective against fleas and ticks and much safer than chemicals. Consider this when mixing your next batch of bath salts. Rather than adding fragrance oils, opt for the essential oils of eucalyptus and tea tree and, following the manufacturer's instructions, mix these into the bath salts. Eucalyptus and Tea Tree Oil are also recognized for relieving itching and minor skin irritations.
Dead Sea Salts are beneficial in many ways to both people and their pets. The correct combination of ingredients is essential.
Tea Tree oil and Eucalyptus are nature's natural remedy against irritated skin, itching, fleas and ticks. In fact, they are much safer than chemicals found in many leading flea and tick controls that you can purchase over the counter.
Clay: Found to be beneficial in soothing skin, condition hair and trapping moisture, clay can provide some relief from heat spots and dry skin.
Combine therapeutic sea salts with a wonderful clay base to hold moisture to your pet's skin while the eucalyptus and tea tree work their gentle magic in soothing skin irritations and warding off fleas and ticks. The marvel of sea salts will ease muscle and joint aches even as the clay conditions the skin and hair. For mature pets, this can be especially rewarding.
CJ Palmer is the founder of CJ Skin Care. For more helpful tips and techniques and a full listing of CJ Skin Care Products visit http://www.cjskincare.com
Monday, December 31, 2007
Saturday, December 29, 2007
Dog Training - Digging Behavior And Correction
By Phil Donahoe
When it comes to dog training there are two differing sides of opinion when it comes to dogs and their digging habits. Firstly, many dog trainers think that a dog is a dog, and we should permit him to express his true canine nature by allowing him free reign over the yard and flowerbeds. The other dog training experts feel that a flowerbed is a flowerbed, and no dog should even think about expression his dogginess if such an expression comes at the price of a ruined flowerbed.
Most leading training experts favor the middle ground. Although many dogs do love to dig, and it is healthy for them to be permitted to dig once in a while, there's a difference between allowing your dog to express their inner puppy, and allowing him to run rampant in the backyard. No dog training professional would agree that a dog should have to come at the price of a garden, and vice versa. When if comes to dog training, flowers and dogs can coexist peacefully if you train your dog correctly. If your dog's developed a taste for digging, it will just take a bit of time, and some ingenuity, on your part to resolve the dog training problem satisfactorily.
To start with, if you have yet to adopt a dog and your concern for the fate of your garden is purely hypothetical, consider the breed of dog that you would like. If you've got your eye on a specific mixed-breed dog, what aspect of his mixed dog heritage seems to be the most prominent?
Dog breed often plays a significant role in any given dog's personal opinion of digging as a rewarding and valuable dog pastime - many terriers and Nordic breeds in particular (Huskies, Malamutes, some members of the Spitz family for example) seem to particularly enjoy digging.
Every dog training expert will, of course, say that when you get right down to the sum and substance, every dog is first and foremost an individual, and there's no real way to predict whether or not your chosen four legged friend is going to be a burrower or not. However, if you're trying to reduce the likelihood of an involuntarily-landscaped garden as much as possible, It is suggested you stay away from all breeds of terrier (and for those that did not know, the name means 'go to earth', after all!) and the Nordic breeds.
Why do dogs dig?
Dog training professionals often agree on the following reasons, and they are in no particular order, as to why a dog will dig:
* General Lack of exercise. Digging is a good way for a hyped-up, under-exercised dog to burn off some of their nervous energy.
* Boredom. Bored dogs will find a 'job' to do, something rewarding and interesting, to help the time pass by.
* Digging is often the ideal solution for a bored dog: it gives him a sense of purpose, and distracts him from an otherwise-empty day.
* The need for broader horizons. Some dogs are just escape artists by nature - no matter how much exercise and attention they get, it's nearly impossible to confine them to an area. For a Doggy-Houdini, it's not the digging itself that is the reward, it is the wonderful unknown that exists beyond the boundaries they were confined to and dogs love to explore a world of unfamiliar scents.
* Separation anxiety. Often when a dog is seriously pining for your company, digging under those confining walls represents the most direct path to you. Separation anxiety is an unpleasant psychological issue relatively common among dogs - but because it's so complex, we won't be dealing with it in this article but keep an eye out because I will be writing about that in detail in another article.
Dog training experts agree that most of the reasons contributing to your dog's desire to dig suggest their own solutions. If your dog's not getting enough exercise (generally speaking, at least forty-five minutes worth of vigorous walking per day), take him for more walks it will help you and your dog stay fit and healthy. If your dog is bored, give him some interesting and durable toys and chews to play with during your absence, and wear him out before you leave so he spends most of the day napping. As for an escape-artist dog, they might need to be crated, or at least kept inside the house where he's less likely to be able to break out of his or her confines.
For those dogs who just like to dig as a pastime in itself, though, here are a few basic dog training tips for controlling inappropriate excavation as much as is reasonably possible:
* Restrict your dog's access to the area concerned. This is the most effective thing you can do: if he's never in the yard without active supervision, there's no opportunity for digging his own personal tunneling system.
* Use a natural deterrent. Almost all dogs will shy back, horrified, from the prospect of digging anywhere that there's dog poop. Even the ones who like to eat poop (a condition known as coprophagia) generally won't dig anywhere near it as it offends their basic natural, fastidious dislike of soiling their coat and paws.
* Use nature's own protection. If the continued digging is bothering you because it's upsetting the more delicate blooms in your garden, plant hardier blossoms: preferably, those with deep roots and thorny defenses. Roses are ideal and a natural deterrent.
* A more time-consuming, but super-effective way of dog training is to roll up the first inch or two of turf in your yard, and lay down chicken-wire underneath it. Your dog won't know it is there until he's had a few tries at digging, but once he's convinced himself that it's pointless (which won't take long), he'll never dig in that yard again. As we say, time consuming but very, very effective.
Accept your dog's need for an outlet, give him a place to dig
If your dog is set on tunneling your yard into a pot marked, grassless lunar landscape, but you're equally determined to prevent this from happening at all costs, take a moment to consider before embarking on a grueling and time-consuming preventative strategy.
Setting yourself the goal of eradicating all digging behavior, period, is pretty unrealistic. It is not fair on you (since, really, you're setting yourself up for failure), and it's not really fair on your poor dog either. If he's a natural-born digging machine, it's just part of his personality, and he needs at least some opportunity to express that in some form.
But a lawn and a dog don't have to be mutually exclusive. The most humane and understanding thing for you to do in this case is simply to redirect his digging energy where you can live with it and he can love you for it.
The simplest dog training solution in this case is allocating him an area where he's allowed to dig as much as he pleases. Once this zone's been established, you can make it understood that there is to be absolutely no digging in the rest of the garden, and you can enforce your rules with a clear conscience. As set these boundaries you know your dog now has his own little corner of the world to turn upside down and inside out as he chooses and all parties are happy.
But what if you don't have a "spare corner" of the backyard for your little digger to call his own? What if the whole thing, grass, flowerbeds, and gravel path, is just too dear to your heart? This is ok, there is a solution to this as well. You can invest in a sandbox, which you can place anywhere in the garden.
You can even make one yourself (the deeper, the better, obviously). Fill it with a mixture of sand and earth, and put some leaves or grass on top if you like for effect and get your dog interested in it by having a scratch around yourself, until he gets the idea.
Ensuring the boundaries are clear
One great dog training tip is to make it clear to him that the sandbox is OK but that everywhere else is a no-dig zone, spend a little time supervising him. When he starts to dig in the box (you can encourage this by shallowly burying a few choice marrowbones in there), praise him energetically - and if he starts digging anywhere else, correct him straight away with an extended finger or hand command and state a firm "No!" or "ahh-ah-ahhhh".
Then, redirect him immediately to the sandbox, and dole out vociferous praise when digging recommences.
To really clarify the lesson, give him a treat when digging gets underway in the sandbox - the close proximity between the correction (for digging out of the sandbox) and praise/reward (for digging in the sandbox) will ensure that your point strikes home and you will have dog training success.
If you like this article, you will find much more useful dog training information on our website Dog Training Success where you will find useful tips, tricks and an amazing guide that will help you train your four legged friend with immediate results. No matter what your dogs problem there is a solution and this fantastic training guide will show you how to handle each and every situation in detail. Can you afford not to find our more? Click Here Now
When it comes to dog training there are two differing sides of opinion when it comes to dogs and their digging habits. Firstly, many dog trainers think that a dog is a dog, and we should permit him to express his true canine nature by allowing him free reign over the yard and flowerbeds. The other dog training experts feel that a flowerbed is a flowerbed, and no dog should even think about expression his dogginess if such an expression comes at the price of a ruined flowerbed.
Most leading training experts favor the middle ground. Although many dogs do love to dig, and it is healthy for them to be permitted to dig once in a while, there's a difference between allowing your dog to express their inner puppy, and allowing him to run rampant in the backyard. No dog training professional would agree that a dog should have to come at the price of a garden, and vice versa. When if comes to dog training, flowers and dogs can coexist peacefully if you train your dog correctly. If your dog's developed a taste for digging, it will just take a bit of time, and some ingenuity, on your part to resolve the dog training problem satisfactorily.
To start with, if you have yet to adopt a dog and your concern for the fate of your garden is purely hypothetical, consider the breed of dog that you would like. If you've got your eye on a specific mixed-breed dog, what aspect of his mixed dog heritage seems to be the most prominent?
Dog breed often plays a significant role in any given dog's personal opinion of digging as a rewarding and valuable dog pastime - many terriers and Nordic breeds in particular (Huskies, Malamutes, some members of the Spitz family for example) seem to particularly enjoy digging.
Every dog training expert will, of course, say that when you get right down to the sum and substance, every dog is first and foremost an individual, and there's no real way to predict whether or not your chosen four legged friend is going to be a burrower or not. However, if you're trying to reduce the likelihood of an involuntarily-landscaped garden as much as possible, It is suggested you stay away from all breeds of terrier (and for those that did not know, the name means 'go to earth', after all!) and the Nordic breeds.
Why do dogs dig?
Dog training professionals often agree on the following reasons, and they are in no particular order, as to why a dog will dig:
* General Lack of exercise. Digging is a good way for a hyped-up, under-exercised dog to burn off some of their nervous energy.
* Boredom. Bored dogs will find a 'job' to do, something rewarding and interesting, to help the time pass by.
* Digging is often the ideal solution for a bored dog: it gives him a sense of purpose, and distracts him from an otherwise-empty day.
* The need for broader horizons. Some dogs are just escape artists by nature - no matter how much exercise and attention they get, it's nearly impossible to confine them to an area. For a Doggy-Houdini, it's not the digging itself that is the reward, it is the wonderful unknown that exists beyond the boundaries they were confined to and dogs love to explore a world of unfamiliar scents.
* Separation anxiety. Often when a dog is seriously pining for your company, digging under those confining walls represents the most direct path to you. Separation anxiety is an unpleasant psychological issue relatively common among dogs - but because it's so complex, we won't be dealing with it in this article but keep an eye out because I will be writing about that in detail in another article.
Dog training experts agree that most of the reasons contributing to your dog's desire to dig suggest their own solutions. If your dog's not getting enough exercise (generally speaking, at least forty-five minutes worth of vigorous walking per day), take him for more walks it will help you and your dog stay fit and healthy. If your dog is bored, give him some interesting and durable toys and chews to play with during your absence, and wear him out before you leave so he spends most of the day napping. As for an escape-artist dog, they might need to be crated, or at least kept inside the house where he's less likely to be able to break out of his or her confines.
For those dogs who just like to dig as a pastime in itself, though, here are a few basic dog training tips for controlling inappropriate excavation as much as is reasonably possible:
* Restrict your dog's access to the area concerned. This is the most effective thing you can do: if he's never in the yard without active supervision, there's no opportunity for digging his own personal tunneling system.
* Use a natural deterrent. Almost all dogs will shy back, horrified, from the prospect of digging anywhere that there's dog poop. Even the ones who like to eat poop (a condition known as coprophagia) generally won't dig anywhere near it as it offends their basic natural, fastidious dislike of soiling their coat and paws.
* Use nature's own protection. If the continued digging is bothering you because it's upsetting the more delicate blooms in your garden, plant hardier blossoms: preferably, those with deep roots and thorny defenses. Roses are ideal and a natural deterrent.
* A more time-consuming, but super-effective way of dog training is to roll up the first inch or two of turf in your yard, and lay down chicken-wire underneath it. Your dog won't know it is there until he's had a few tries at digging, but once he's convinced himself that it's pointless (which won't take long), he'll never dig in that yard again. As we say, time consuming but very, very effective.
Accept your dog's need for an outlet, give him a place to dig
If your dog is set on tunneling your yard into a pot marked, grassless lunar landscape, but you're equally determined to prevent this from happening at all costs, take a moment to consider before embarking on a grueling and time-consuming preventative strategy.
Setting yourself the goal of eradicating all digging behavior, period, is pretty unrealistic. It is not fair on you (since, really, you're setting yourself up for failure), and it's not really fair on your poor dog either. If he's a natural-born digging machine, it's just part of his personality, and he needs at least some opportunity to express that in some form.
But a lawn and a dog don't have to be mutually exclusive. The most humane and understanding thing for you to do in this case is simply to redirect his digging energy where you can live with it and he can love you for it.
The simplest dog training solution in this case is allocating him an area where he's allowed to dig as much as he pleases. Once this zone's been established, you can make it understood that there is to be absolutely no digging in the rest of the garden, and you can enforce your rules with a clear conscience. As set these boundaries you know your dog now has his own little corner of the world to turn upside down and inside out as he chooses and all parties are happy.
But what if you don't have a "spare corner" of the backyard for your little digger to call his own? What if the whole thing, grass, flowerbeds, and gravel path, is just too dear to your heart? This is ok, there is a solution to this as well. You can invest in a sandbox, which you can place anywhere in the garden.
You can even make one yourself (the deeper, the better, obviously). Fill it with a mixture of sand and earth, and put some leaves or grass on top if you like for effect and get your dog interested in it by having a scratch around yourself, until he gets the idea.
Ensuring the boundaries are clear
One great dog training tip is to make it clear to him that the sandbox is OK but that everywhere else is a no-dig zone, spend a little time supervising him. When he starts to dig in the box (you can encourage this by shallowly burying a few choice marrowbones in there), praise him energetically - and if he starts digging anywhere else, correct him straight away with an extended finger or hand command and state a firm "No!" or "ahh-ah-ahhhh".
Then, redirect him immediately to the sandbox, and dole out vociferous praise when digging recommences.
To really clarify the lesson, give him a treat when digging gets underway in the sandbox - the close proximity between the correction (for digging out of the sandbox) and praise/reward (for digging in the sandbox) will ensure that your point strikes home and you will have dog training success.
If you like this article, you will find much more useful dog training information on our website Dog Training Success where you will find useful tips, tricks and an amazing guide that will help you train your four legged friend with immediate results. No matter what your dogs problem there is a solution and this fantastic training guide will show you how to handle each and every situation in detail. Can you afford not to find our more? Click Here Now
Thursday, December 27, 2007
Dog Training - Recognizing, Preventing, And Handling Dog Aggression Part 2
By Phil Donahoe
Continued from part 1, this dog training article is dealing with dog aggression. Lets continue now and talk more about dog socialization.
How can I socialize my dog so that he doesn't develop a fear of strangers?
Socializing your dog is pretty easy to do - it's more of a general effort than a specific training regimen.
First of all, you should take him to puppy preschool. This is a generic term for a series of easy group-training classes for puppies (often performed at the vet clinic, which has the additional benefit of teaching your dog positive associations with the vet!).
In a puppy preschool class, about ten or so puppy owners get together with a qualified trainer (often there'll be at least two trainers present - the more there are, the better, since it means you get more one-on-one time with a professional) and start teaching their puppies the basic obedience commands: sit, stay, and so on.
Even though the obedience work is very helpful and is a great way to start your puppy on the road to being a trustworthy adult dog, really the best part of puppy preschool is the play sessions: several times throughout the class, the puppies are encouraged to run around off-leash and play amongst themselves.
This is an ideal environment for them to learn good social skills: there's a whole bunch of unfamiliar dogs present (which teaches them how to interact with strange dogs), there's a whole bunch of unfamiliar people present (which teaches them that new faces are nothing to be afraid of), and the environment is safe and controlled (there's at least one certified trainer present to make sure that things don't get out of hand).
Socialization doesn't just stop with puppy preschool, though. It's an ongoing effort throughout the life of your puppy and dog: he needs to be taken to a whole bunch of new places and environments.
Remember not to overwhelm him: start off slow, and build up his tolerance gradually.
- Aggression towards family members -
There are two common reasons why a dog is aggressive towards members of his own human family:
- He's trying to defend something he thinks of as his from a perceived threat (you).
This is known as resource guarding, and though it may sound innocuous, there's actually a lot more going on here than your dog simply trying to keep his kibble to himself.
- He's not comfortable with the treatment/handling he's getting from you or other members of the family.
What's resource guarding?
Resource guarding is pretty common among dogs. The term refers to overly-possessive behavior on behalf of your dog: for instance, snarling at you if you approach him when he's eating, or giving you "the eye" (a flinty-eyed, direct stare) if you reach your hand out to take a toy away from him.
All dogs can be possessive from time to time - it's in their natures. Sometimes they're possessive over things with no conceivable value: inedible trash, balled up pieces of paper or tissue, old socks. More frequently, however, resource-guarding becomes an issue over items with a very real and understandable value: food and toys.
Why does it happen?
It all boils down to the issue of dominance. Let me take a moment to explain this concept: dogs are pack animals. This means that they're used to a very structured environment: in a dog-pack, each individual animal is ranked in a hierarchy of position and power (or "dominance") in relation to every other animal. Each animal is aware of the rank of every other animal, which means he knows specifically how to act in any given situation (whether to back down, whether to push the issue, whether to muscle in or not on somebody else's turf, etc etc).
To your dog, the family environment is no different to the dog-pack environment. Your dog has ranked each member of the family, and has his own perception of where he ranks in that environment as well.
This is where it gets interesting: if your dog perceives himself as higher up on the social totem-pole than other family members, he's going to get cheeky. If he's really got an overinflated sense of his own importance, he'll start to act aggressively.
Why? Because dominance and aggression are the exclusive rights of a superior-ranked animal. No underdog would ever show aggression or act dominantly to a higher-ranked animal (the consequences would be dire, and he knows it!)
Resource guarding is a classic example of dominant behavior: only a higher-ranked dog (a "dominant" dog) would act aggressively in defence of resources.
To put it plainly: if it was clear to your dog that he is not, in fact, the leader of the family, he'd never even dream of trying to prevent you from taking his food or toys - because a lower-ranking dog (him) will always go along with what the higher-ranking dogs (you and your family) say.
So what can I do about it? The best treatment for dominant, aggressive behavior is consistent, frequent obedience work, which will underline your authority over your dog. Just two fifteen-minute sessions a day will make it perfectly clear to your dog that you're the boss, and that it pays to do what you say.
You can make this fact clear to him by rewarding him (with treats and lavish praise) for obeying a command, and isolating him (putting him in "time-out", either outside the house or in a room by himself) for misbehaviour.
- If you're not entirely confident doing this yourself, you may wish to consider enlisting the assistance of a qualified dog-trainer.
- Brush up on your understanding of canine psychology and communication, so that you understand what he's trying to say - this will help you to nip any dominant behaviors in the bud, and to communicate your own authority more effectively
- Train regularly: keep obedience sessions short and productive (no more than fifteen minutes - maybe two or three of these per day).
Continued and finalized in part 3.... see you there!
If you like this article, you will find much more useful dog training information on our website Dog Training Success where you will find useful tips, tricks and an amazing guide that will help you train your four legged friend with immediate results. No matter what your dogs problem there is a solution and this fantastic training guide will show you how to handle each and every situation in detail. Can you afford not to find our more? Click Here Now
Continued from part 1, this dog training article is dealing with dog aggression. Lets continue now and talk more about dog socialization.
How can I socialize my dog so that he doesn't develop a fear of strangers?
Socializing your dog is pretty easy to do - it's more of a general effort than a specific training regimen.
First of all, you should take him to puppy preschool. This is a generic term for a series of easy group-training classes for puppies (often performed at the vet clinic, which has the additional benefit of teaching your dog positive associations with the vet!).
In a puppy preschool class, about ten or so puppy owners get together with a qualified trainer (often there'll be at least two trainers present - the more there are, the better, since it means you get more one-on-one time with a professional) and start teaching their puppies the basic obedience commands: sit, stay, and so on.
Even though the obedience work is very helpful and is a great way to start your puppy on the road to being a trustworthy adult dog, really the best part of puppy preschool is the play sessions: several times throughout the class, the puppies are encouraged to run around off-leash and play amongst themselves.
This is an ideal environment for them to learn good social skills: there's a whole bunch of unfamiliar dogs present (which teaches them how to interact with strange dogs), there's a whole bunch of unfamiliar people present (which teaches them that new faces are nothing to be afraid of), and the environment is safe and controlled (there's at least one certified trainer present to make sure that things don't get out of hand).
Socialization doesn't just stop with puppy preschool, though. It's an ongoing effort throughout the life of your puppy and dog: he needs to be taken to a whole bunch of new places and environments.
Remember not to overwhelm him: start off slow, and build up his tolerance gradually.
- Aggression towards family members -
There are two common reasons why a dog is aggressive towards members of his own human family:
- He's trying to defend something he thinks of as his from a perceived threat (you).
This is known as resource guarding, and though it may sound innocuous, there's actually a lot more going on here than your dog simply trying to keep his kibble to himself.
- He's not comfortable with the treatment/handling he's getting from you or other members of the family.
What's resource guarding?
Resource guarding is pretty common among dogs. The term refers to overly-possessive behavior on behalf of your dog: for instance, snarling at you if you approach him when he's eating, or giving you "the eye" (a flinty-eyed, direct stare) if you reach your hand out to take a toy away from him.
All dogs can be possessive from time to time - it's in their natures. Sometimes they're possessive over things with no conceivable value: inedible trash, balled up pieces of paper or tissue, old socks. More frequently, however, resource-guarding becomes an issue over items with a very real and understandable value: food and toys.
Why does it happen?
It all boils down to the issue of dominance. Let me take a moment to explain this concept: dogs are pack animals. This means that they're used to a very structured environment: in a dog-pack, each individual animal is ranked in a hierarchy of position and power (or "dominance") in relation to every other animal. Each animal is aware of the rank of every other animal, which means he knows specifically how to act in any given situation (whether to back down, whether to push the issue, whether to muscle in or not on somebody else's turf, etc etc).
To your dog, the family environment is no different to the dog-pack environment. Your dog has ranked each member of the family, and has his own perception of where he ranks in that environment as well.
This is where it gets interesting: if your dog perceives himself as higher up on the social totem-pole than other family members, he's going to get cheeky. If he's really got an overinflated sense of his own importance, he'll start to act aggressively.
Why? Because dominance and aggression are the exclusive rights of a superior-ranked animal. No underdog would ever show aggression or act dominantly to a higher-ranked animal (the consequences would be dire, and he knows it!)
Resource guarding is a classic example of dominant behavior: only a higher-ranked dog (a "dominant" dog) would act aggressively in defence of resources.
To put it plainly: if it was clear to your dog that he is not, in fact, the leader of the family, he'd never even dream of trying to prevent you from taking his food or toys - because a lower-ranking dog (him) will always go along with what the higher-ranking dogs (you and your family) say.
So what can I do about it? The best treatment for dominant, aggressive behavior is consistent, frequent obedience work, which will underline your authority over your dog. Just two fifteen-minute sessions a day will make it perfectly clear to your dog that you're the boss, and that it pays to do what you say.
You can make this fact clear to him by rewarding him (with treats and lavish praise) for obeying a command, and isolating him (putting him in "time-out", either outside the house or in a room by himself) for misbehaviour.
- If you're not entirely confident doing this yourself, you may wish to consider enlisting the assistance of a qualified dog-trainer.
- Brush up on your understanding of canine psychology and communication, so that you understand what he's trying to say - this will help you to nip any dominant behaviors in the bud, and to communicate your own authority more effectively
- Train regularly: keep obedience sessions short and productive (no more than fifteen minutes - maybe two or three of these per day).
Continued and finalized in part 3.... see you there!
If you like this article, you will find much more useful dog training information on our website Dog Training Success where you will find useful tips, tricks and an amazing guide that will help you train your four legged friend with immediate results. No matter what your dogs problem there is a solution and this fantastic training guide will show you how to handle each and every situation in detail. Can you afford not to find our more? Click Here Now
Tuesday, December 25, 2007
Practical Hints On Electronic Flea Collars
By Ras Reed
Following the failure of many flea control measures in the past, the introduction of electronic flea collars was well greeted by enthusiastic consumers. Consumers, especially the dog owners who are always on the look out for what can be done to effectively get rid of fleas from their wonderful pets can't wait to see if the new measure will work. As a dog owner, it is very important for you to acquire basic information about electronic flea collar before ever going out there to buy it. This article will help you out with the basic information and you can then make up your mind whether to procure it or not.
It's been known that of all animals in existence, the dog is regarded as man's best friend. Dogs have served mankind for many years. However, fleas are a constant threat to the well being of dogs. This is a major concern of dog lovers. Before now, the measure that a dog owner like you can make use of in order to get rid of fleas is to regularly wash and comb him or her. You will agree with me that this is not an easy task. So, the introduction of pesticides like DDT was a welcome development for many dog owners grappling with fleas' infestation. But it was soon discovered that these pesticides have side effects and some of them are not environmentally friendly coupled with the fact unfortunate fact that some of them can't effectively deal with fleas.
The aftermath of all this is the development of an electronic flea collar. However, I must advise that you consult with your veterinary doctor before getting one. Why? Many dog owners like you have fallen for the advertisement and are regretting it. Many of the advertised testimonials on the World Wide Web and mass media have been found to be untrue. Moreover, most of the manufacturers' have not been able to scientifically prove that their product can effectively deal with flea infestation.
It is highly advisable for you to see your vet doctor before using any flea control products.
Get more free info on Fleas Control from Fleas Control Guide
Following the failure of many flea control measures in the past, the introduction of electronic flea collars was well greeted by enthusiastic consumers. Consumers, especially the dog owners who are always on the look out for what can be done to effectively get rid of fleas from their wonderful pets can't wait to see if the new measure will work. As a dog owner, it is very important for you to acquire basic information about electronic flea collar before ever going out there to buy it. This article will help you out with the basic information and you can then make up your mind whether to procure it or not.
It's been known that of all animals in existence, the dog is regarded as man's best friend. Dogs have served mankind for many years. However, fleas are a constant threat to the well being of dogs. This is a major concern of dog lovers. Before now, the measure that a dog owner like you can make use of in order to get rid of fleas is to regularly wash and comb him or her. You will agree with me that this is not an easy task. So, the introduction of pesticides like DDT was a welcome development for many dog owners grappling with fleas' infestation. But it was soon discovered that these pesticides have side effects and some of them are not environmentally friendly coupled with the fact unfortunate fact that some of them can't effectively deal with fleas.
The aftermath of all this is the development of an electronic flea collar. However, I must advise that you consult with your veterinary doctor before getting one. Why? Many dog owners like you have fallen for the advertisement and are regretting it. Many of the advertised testimonials on the World Wide Web and mass media have been found to be untrue. Moreover, most of the manufacturers' have not been able to scientifically prove that their product can effectively deal with flea infestation.
It is highly advisable for you to see your vet doctor before using any flea control products.
Get more free info on Fleas Control from Fleas Control Guide
Sunday, December 23, 2007
Heartworm Disease In Domestic Pets
By Jared Lee
Heartworm, scientifically known as Dirofilaria immitis, is a parasitic roundworm that is now considered as a global pest that primarily affects dogs and cats. Prevalence of heartworm exists in every continent except Antartic and Arctic regions.
Microfilariae are the infectious particles of the nematode that are present in the salivary glands of a mosquito and are transmitted from organism to organism during mosquito bites. Around 70 different species of mosquitoes are known to act as stable vectors for this disease. Mosquitoes provide the ideal body temperature required for the growth of microfilariae. Infection starts when these microfilariae enter the blood stream and mature. Adult heartworms reside inside the compartments of the heart and large blood vessels inside lungs. There are five distinct larval stages in the life cycle of heartworm.
Symptoms of this disease appear only when the disease has reached an advanced stage. Symptoms at this stage include dyspnea, coughing, enlarged abdomen and inflammation in the lungs, restricted blood flow, syncape, dizziness, loss of appetite, hepatomegaly and abnormal lung sounds. When the disease is left unattended, it can result in death within 72 hrs due to congestive heart failure.
Diagnosis of the disease is done using different types of blood tests. Some tests such as filter test and Knotts test look for the presence of microfilaria inside the blood sample. Occult test locates the presence of adult heartworms in the heart. Another type of diagnostic test is done for detecting the presence of heartworm specific antigens. Third type of diagnostic test is aimed at detecting the presence of antibodies to the larval stage of heartworm.
Treatment of heartworms is effective only when the disease is detected early. There are several drugs available in the market for treating heartworms. Most important of these include Immiticide, Ivermectin and Caparsolate. Some other important preventive drugs for heartworm infection include Moxidectin, Milbmycin and Selamectin. However, all these drugs are powerful chemical combinations that are highly toxic to the animal as well as the parasite and must be administered with utmost precaution. Another useful treatment option is surgical removal in advanced cases where substantial numbers of adult heartworms have infested the heart.
Check Out More Articles: Flea Tick And Heartworm Preventive, Bullmastiff Information, L Arginine Canine Cancer
Heartworm, scientifically known as Dirofilaria immitis, is a parasitic roundworm that is now considered as a global pest that primarily affects dogs and cats. Prevalence of heartworm exists in every continent except Antartic and Arctic regions.
Microfilariae are the infectious particles of the nematode that are present in the salivary glands of a mosquito and are transmitted from organism to organism during mosquito bites. Around 70 different species of mosquitoes are known to act as stable vectors for this disease. Mosquitoes provide the ideal body temperature required for the growth of microfilariae. Infection starts when these microfilariae enter the blood stream and mature. Adult heartworms reside inside the compartments of the heart and large blood vessels inside lungs. There are five distinct larval stages in the life cycle of heartworm.
Symptoms of this disease appear only when the disease has reached an advanced stage. Symptoms at this stage include dyspnea, coughing, enlarged abdomen and inflammation in the lungs, restricted blood flow, syncape, dizziness, loss of appetite, hepatomegaly and abnormal lung sounds. When the disease is left unattended, it can result in death within 72 hrs due to congestive heart failure.
Diagnosis of the disease is done using different types of blood tests. Some tests such as filter test and Knotts test look for the presence of microfilaria inside the blood sample. Occult test locates the presence of adult heartworms in the heart. Another type of diagnostic test is done for detecting the presence of heartworm specific antigens. Third type of diagnostic test is aimed at detecting the presence of antibodies to the larval stage of heartworm.
Treatment of heartworms is effective only when the disease is detected early. There are several drugs available in the market for treating heartworms. Most important of these include Immiticide, Ivermectin and Caparsolate. Some other important preventive drugs for heartworm infection include Moxidectin, Milbmycin and Selamectin. However, all these drugs are powerful chemical combinations that are highly toxic to the animal as well as the parasite and must be administered with utmost precaution. Another useful treatment option is surgical removal in advanced cases where substantial numbers of adult heartworms have infested the heart.
Check Out More Articles: Flea Tick And Heartworm Preventive, Bullmastiff Information, L Arginine Canine Cancer
Friday, December 21, 2007
Cheap Heartgard
By J. Everett Myers
For cat and dog lovers everywhere, heartworms are serious threat. And we all know that nothing helps to prevent heartworms, hookworms and roundworms like Heartgard Plus.
But...it's expensive. So what can you do? The way I see it, pet owners have two options: 1) You can shop around for discounts or 2) You can buy generic Heartgard.
Discount Heartgard is still Heartgard, only for less. It still prevents mosquito-born heartworms, at up to 40% less than full price. The key to finding good, discounts is to shop around.
Pull out your local YellowPages: many pet stores compete for lowest prices. Ask your friends and family where they shop. Or you can shop online for discounts. Because of lower overhead, many online stores may be able to offer you things like better discounts and free shipping.
Know, however, that even online sites will require proof of prescription before they will ship you medicine.
Generic Heartgard
Your second money-saving option is to buy generic Heartgard. Generic Heartgard is available at almost half the cost of branded Heartgard and can be found both on and offline, in stores all across the country.
Many generic Heartgards still employ Invermectin as their chief ingredient and are just as effective. Just be sure-before you buy anything-that the generic brand you are considering is registered and FDA approved.
Be sure to check the 'filler' ingredients (the ingredients not used in branded Heartgard). (Some filler ingredients may be toxic for your pet.)
Compare the dosage levels. The metric dosages used in some generic medicines can be confusing, and could lead to an overdose (or underdose) if given to your pet.
The availability of generic or discount Heartgard-at almost half the price-is extremely tempting. But it may not be worth the risk. And it may not be worth the money you save. It is always sound advice to check with your veterinarian before treating your pet with any medicine.
Want more information on target=_new Heartgard? Then visit our website!
For cat and dog lovers everywhere, heartworms are serious threat. And we all know that nothing helps to prevent heartworms, hookworms and roundworms like Heartgard Plus.
But...it's expensive. So what can you do? The way I see it, pet owners have two options: 1) You can shop around for discounts or 2) You can buy generic Heartgard.
Discount Heartgard is still Heartgard, only for less. It still prevents mosquito-born heartworms, at up to 40% less than full price. The key to finding good, discounts is to shop around.
Pull out your local YellowPages: many pet stores compete for lowest prices. Ask your friends and family where they shop. Or you can shop online for discounts. Because of lower overhead, many online stores may be able to offer you things like better discounts and free shipping.
Know, however, that even online sites will require proof of prescription before they will ship you medicine.
Generic Heartgard
Your second money-saving option is to buy generic Heartgard. Generic Heartgard is available at almost half the cost of branded Heartgard and can be found both on and offline, in stores all across the country.
Many generic Heartgards still employ Invermectin as their chief ingredient and are just as effective. Just be sure-before you buy anything-that the generic brand you are considering is registered and FDA approved.
Be sure to check the 'filler' ingredients (the ingredients not used in branded Heartgard). (Some filler ingredients may be toxic for your pet.)
Compare the dosage levels. The metric dosages used in some generic medicines can be confusing, and could lead to an overdose (or underdose) if given to your pet.
The availability of generic or discount Heartgard-at almost half the price-is extremely tempting. But it may not be worth the risk. And it may not be worth the money you save. It is always sound advice to check with your veterinarian before treating your pet with any medicine.
Want more information on target=_new Heartgard? Then visit our website!
Wednesday, December 19, 2007
Pet Care - Why You Should Spay or Neuter Your Pet!
By Stacey E. Crevoiserat
When you first get a new puppy or kitten, the last thing you probably want to think about is taking them in for a surgical procedure. However, it's very advantageous for you and your pet's health that you do! Spaying and neutering refer to the surgical procedure that sterilizes the animal so they cannot reproduce. This procedure has a number of advantages and is definitely something you should do for your pet!
Did You Know?
Every day 10,000 humans are born in the United States. And every day 70,000 puppies and kittens are born. If these birth rates continue, there will never be enough homes for all the animals. As a result of these birth rates every year, 4 to 6 million animals are euthanized because there are no homes to care for them.
The only way to stop this suffering is to spay and neuter your pet! Communities spend millions of dollars trying to control and eliminate unwanted animals. Irresponsible breeding contributes to the problem of random dog bites and attacks. Animal shelters are already overburdened with surplus animals, so the best way you can help is to spay or neuter your pet, be part of the solution, not the problem.
Health Benefits
One of the best health care choices you can make for your pet is to have them spay or neutered. Scheduling this procedure early in their life will help prevent health problems as they get older. It's a huge myth that pets become fat or lazy after being spayed or neutered. They actually live healthier, longer lives!
Spaying females helps eliminate:
� Mammary tumors
� Uterine infections
� Tumors of the ovaries or uterus
� Stress, leading to increased susceptibility to disease
� Pregnancy and complications resulting from pregnancy & delivery
� Ovarian cancer
� Breast cancer
Neutering males helps reduce or eliminate:
� Territoriality and aggression, including fighting and marking.
� Wandering and escaping
� Prostate enlargement
� Prostate tumors and infections
� Tumors of the testicles, penis, and anal area
� Prostate cancer
� Stress leading to increased susceptibility to disease
It's Good For You Too!
A spayed or neutered pet is actually a much better companion! They are more affectionate and less likely to wander away from home, making them less likely to get lost, get into a fight, contract a disease, or become a victim of cruelty, poison, or traffic. Altered pets also won't spray and mark their territory and they are much less likely to bite! An unaltered animal usually exhibits more behavioral and temperamental problems than altered animals.
When Do I Have It Done?
Typically, pets are spayed/neutered when they are at least 5 or 6 months of age. However, with advances in technology and medicine, there is no longer any need to wait that long. Early age altering can be done when the animal is between the ages of 6 and 14 weeks old. Now that you've decided to have your pet sterilized, you should seek an experienced veterinarian office for additional information and to schedule the procedure.
Corner Animal Hospital : Online Pet Pharmacy & Veterinary Service http://www.corneranimal.com http://shop.corneranimal.com
Buy the Medications Your Pet Needs With Confidence. Owned by Ivy League Educated Dr. Dorothy Hayes and Dr. Judith Lombardi Daniels. "We treat your pets as family members. Their health and comfort are our primary concern."
Our services include:
On-Line Pharmacy, Annual Physical Exams, Vaccines, Heart Worm Tests & Preventative Measures, Dental Exams & Cleanings On-Site, Spays & Neuters On-Site, X-Rays On-Site, Routine Soft Tissue Surgeries On-Site, Boarding, Advanced Procedures by Board Certified Vet Specialists for: Ultrasound, Endoscopy, Orthopedic Surgeries
Submitted by Stacey at NewSunGraphics http://www.NewSunGraphics.com
When you first get a new puppy or kitten, the last thing you probably want to think about is taking them in for a surgical procedure. However, it's very advantageous for you and your pet's health that you do! Spaying and neutering refer to the surgical procedure that sterilizes the animal so they cannot reproduce. This procedure has a number of advantages and is definitely something you should do for your pet!
Did You Know?
Every day 10,000 humans are born in the United States. And every day 70,000 puppies and kittens are born. If these birth rates continue, there will never be enough homes for all the animals. As a result of these birth rates every year, 4 to 6 million animals are euthanized because there are no homes to care for them.
The only way to stop this suffering is to spay and neuter your pet! Communities spend millions of dollars trying to control and eliminate unwanted animals. Irresponsible breeding contributes to the problem of random dog bites and attacks. Animal shelters are already overburdened with surplus animals, so the best way you can help is to spay or neuter your pet, be part of the solution, not the problem.
Health Benefits
One of the best health care choices you can make for your pet is to have them spay or neutered. Scheduling this procedure early in their life will help prevent health problems as they get older. It's a huge myth that pets become fat or lazy after being spayed or neutered. They actually live healthier, longer lives!
Spaying females helps eliminate:
� Mammary tumors
� Uterine infections
� Tumors of the ovaries or uterus
� Stress, leading to increased susceptibility to disease
� Pregnancy and complications resulting from pregnancy & delivery
� Ovarian cancer
� Breast cancer
Neutering males helps reduce or eliminate:
� Territoriality and aggression, including fighting and marking.
� Wandering and escaping
� Prostate enlargement
� Prostate tumors and infections
� Tumors of the testicles, penis, and anal area
� Prostate cancer
� Stress leading to increased susceptibility to disease
It's Good For You Too!
A spayed or neutered pet is actually a much better companion! They are more affectionate and less likely to wander away from home, making them less likely to get lost, get into a fight, contract a disease, or become a victim of cruelty, poison, or traffic. Altered pets also won't spray and mark their territory and they are much less likely to bite! An unaltered animal usually exhibits more behavioral and temperamental problems than altered animals.
When Do I Have It Done?
Typically, pets are spayed/neutered when they are at least 5 or 6 months of age. However, with advances in technology and medicine, there is no longer any need to wait that long. Early age altering can be done when the animal is between the ages of 6 and 14 weeks old. Now that you've decided to have your pet sterilized, you should seek an experienced veterinarian office for additional information and to schedule the procedure.
Corner Animal Hospital : Online Pet Pharmacy & Veterinary Service http://www.corneranimal.com http://shop.corneranimal.com
Buy the Medications Your Pet Needs With Confidence. Owned by Ivy League Educated Dr. Dorothy Hayes and Dr. Judith Lombardi Daniels. "We treat your pets as family members. Their health and comfort are our primary concern."
Our services include:
On-Line Pharmacy, Annual Physical Exams, Vaccines, Heart Worm Tests & Preventative Measures, Dental Exams & Cleanings On-Site, Spays & Neuters On-Site, X-Rays On-Site, Routine Soft Tissue Surgeries On-Site, Boarding, Advanced Procedures by Board Certified Vet Specialists for: Ultrasound, Endoscopy, Orthopedic Surgeries
Submitted by Stacey at NewSunGraphics http://www.NewSunGraphics.com
Monday, December 17, 2007
Dog Training - Common House Training Problems
By Phil Donahoe
In terms of dog training, house training is one of the areas of dog ownership and one of the most common dog training problems that is most subject to misunderstanding, confusion, and just plain dread boy dog owners and even dog training experts.
In today's dog training article we are going to examine and learn how to deal with two of the most common problems surrounding the issue of house training your dog:
- Submissive and excited urination
- Scent marking behavior
Common house training problem #1: Submissive and excited urination
What is it a 'submissive urinator'?
A 'submissive urinator', in dog training terms, is a dog that urinates on the floor and himself (and sometimes on you or any guests you may have!) in situations of extreme excitement or stress, like when you return home at the end of the work day or when the dog is being told off for some bad behavior.
Why does this happen?
Puppies are the most usual candidates for submissive/excited urination, but it is also not uncommon to see this behavior in adult dogs as well. Usually, these are highly sensitive and timid dogs, and/or ones from a shelter/with a history of abuse (often these last two go hand-in-hand and one of most common things we see as dog training professionals.)
When does it happen?
Situations which are likely to trigger an excited/fearful dog to urinate: - Greeting time after a prolonged absence of owner - Play time where a dog gets too excited - The arrival of guests (particularly unknown guests) - Stressful situations at home, eg arguments involving owner - During a behavior correction such as you're telling him off - Sudden and unexpected loud noises such as thunder or fireworks
What can I do about it?
Luckily as dog training experts will tell you, it is not difficult to prevent your dog from doing his submissive or excited urination.
Firstly and most importantly, you should take him to the vet to make sure there is no unknown medical reason for the issue (such as diabetes or a hidden bladder infection.)
Next, it's time to take use good dog training techniques to control the problem:
- Try to limit his intake of water to help him control his bladder more effectively, this is very important. Don't restrict his water intake over a prolonged period of time, but if you know there is a situation coming which would normally result in a loss of bladder control, for example, you have guests coming over, or are planning on a play session soon, take his water bowl away for a period of time (maybe half an hour to an hour) before the event.
- When greeting your dog, keep it calm and mellow. The more excited he is, the harder it is for him to control his bladder, so don't encourage him to get worked up: ignore him for the first few moments, or give him a very neutral "hello", a quick and gentle pat, and then go about making yourself at home.
- It's important that you DO NOT punish or harshly correct your dog for this behavior. It is not something that he can easily control, and he's certainly not doing it on purpose. Punishing a dog for this behavior can cause emotional distress and lead to more problems for you and the dog in the long run. When you catch him in the act, you can interrupt him (a firm "No!" followed by praise when he stops should suffice) but don't punish him. Keep your cool, and try to be sympathetic: he doesn't mean to do it, after all!
- If he urinates out of fear (submissiveness) when scolding him for another offense, try to take the stress levels down a notch by keeping a firm, authoritative, but not angry tone. Remember, you're dealing with a sensitive, highly-strung dog: if you get angry or worry him further, the problem will worsen.
Common house training problem #2: Scent marking
In dog training terms 'Scent marking' is where a dog 'marks' his or her territory with urine. Technically this is not actually a house training problem, since it's based on the dog training issues of dominance and territoriality rather than insufficient house training. A dog can be perfectly house trained but still feel the need to mark inside the house.
However, because - since the problem centers around the unwanted presence of urine in the house - it seems logical, in a way, to link this problem with house training. Since this is one of the most widespread problems among dog owners, we as dog training professionals thought it worthwhile to include some practical advice.
Scent marking and lack of house training: how to differentiate between the two
Your dog is most likely scent marking their territory, rather than genuinely relieving himself, if:
- The amount of urine produced is relatively small, and tends to be directed against vertical surfaces such as doors, walls or furniture.
- If your dog is an unneutered male and at least five or six months old. Unneutered dogs are much more territorial than neutered ones. If you have an unneutered dog in the house, you can pretty much expect a certain amount of scent marking as he defines his own areas. It should also be noted that unspayed females also mark, but it is much less common. Spayed and neutered dogs can also exhibit marking behavior, but it's relatively rare but should not be discounted.
- It makes little difference how often he is taken outside for a toilet break
- He frequently targets items that are new to the house such as new possessions, guest clothing/footwear, etc that do not carry some form of his scent
- You live in a multi-dog household and there is conflict between two or more of the dogs. In this case it is a dominance issue between the two and they may both mark.
- There are other, unneutered or unspayed pets in the house
What to do about the problem?
From a dog training perspective the first thing you need to do is spay or neuter your dog(s) as soon as you possibly can. If you can do this early enough, ideally, at six months of age, this often halts marking altogether. If this is not possible or if your dog's been marking for a prolonged period of time, he or she may continue to do so after being spayed or neutered, since a pattern of behavior will have been established.
Ensure you clean soiled areas thoroughly. Use a non-ammonia based cleaner, because it smells just like pee, and stay away from vinegar too, it smells similar to pee as well. Oxi-Clean mixed with warm water is particularly effective on these areas and there are also plenty of commercial cleaners designed specifically to lift pet stains and odors, which you can buy from pet stores and some supermarkets.
Because dogs tend to re-mark the same places, you'll need to redefine the places that you know he's marked to prevent repeat offending.
Many dog training experts will recommend the following ways to do this:
- Feed him next to or on top of the spot
- Play with him there
- Groom him there
- Put his bed over or next to it
- Spend time there yourself: hang out with a book or sit down and work
Finally, one particular aspect of dog training that is often overlooked is if there is rivalry between dogs in the household. In this case you will need to take steps to resolve it. Any conflict is likely to be hierarchical in nature (a 'power struggle'), which means that all you have to do to stop the tension is pay attention to which dog seems to be more dominant than the other one (which one eats first, gets the toys he/she wants, 'stares down' another dog), and reinforce this position to establish the hierarchy.
So how do you do this? From a dog training perspective it is relatively simple. First, feed the dominant dog first. Pet him/her first. Give him/her a toy before anyone else gets one. This makes it clear to all dogs in the house which one really is the dominant dog. When this hierarchy's been recognizably established, territorial and dominant behaviors like scent marking often vanish overnight.
If you like this article, you will find much more useful dog training information on our dog training website Dog Training Success where you will find useful tips, tricks and an amazing guide that will help you train your dog with immediate results. No matter what your dog training problem there is a solution and this fantastic dog training guide will show you how to handle each and every situation in detail. Can you afford not to find our more? Click Here Now
In terms of dog training, house training is one of the areas of dog ownership and one of the most common dog training problems that is most subject to misunderstanding, confusion, and just plain dread boy dog owners and even dog training experts.
In today's dog training article we are going to examine and learn how to deal with two of the most common problems surrounding the issue of house training your dog:
- Submissive and excited urination
- Scent marking behavior
Common house training problem #1: Submissive and excited urination
What is it a 'submissive urinator'?
A 'submissive urinator', in dog training terms, is a dog that urinates on the floor and himself (and sometimes on you or any guests you may have!) in situations of extreme excitement or stress, like when you return home at the end of the work day or when the dog is being told off for some bad behavior.
Why does this happen?
Puppies are the most usual candidates for submissive/excited urination, but it is also not uncommon to see this behavior in adult dogs as well. Usually, these are highly sensitive and timid dogs, and/or ones from a shelter/with a history of abuse (often these last two go hand-in-hand and one of most common things we see as dog training professionals.)
When does it happen?
Situations which are likely to trigger an excited/fearful dog to urinate: - Greeting time after a prolonged absence of owner - Play time where a dog gets too excited - The arrival of guests (particularly unknown guests) - Stressful situations at home, eg arguments involving owner - During a behavior correction such as you're telling him off - Sudden and unexpected loud noises such as thunder or fireworks
What can I do about it?
Luckily as dog training experts will tell you, it is not difficult to prevent your dog from doing his submissive or excited urination.
Firstly and most importantly, you should take him to the vet to make sure there is no unknown medical reason for the issue (such as diabetes or a hidden bladder infection.)
Next, it's time to take use good dog training techniques to control the problem:
- Try to limit his intake of water to help him control his bladder more effectively, this is very important. Don't restrict his water intake over a prolonged period of time, but if you know there is a situation coming which would normally result in a loss of bladder control, for example, you have guests coming over, or are planning on a play session soon, take his water bowl away for a period of time (maybe half an hour to an hour) before the event.
- When greeting your dog, keep it calm and mellow. The more excited he is, the harder it is for him to control his bladder, so don't encourage him to get worked up: ignore him for the first few moments, or give him a very neutral "hello", a quick and gentle pat, and then go about making yourself at home.
- It's important that you DO NOT punish or harshly correct your dog for this behavior. It is not something that he can easily control, and he's certainly not doing it on purpose. Punishing a dog for this behavior can cause emotional distress and lead to more problems for you and the dog in the long run. When you catch him in the act, you can interrupt him (a firm "No!" followed by praise when he stops should suffice) but don't punish him. Keep your cool, and try to be sympathetic: he doesn't mean to do it, after all!
- If he urinates out of fear (submissiveness) when scolding him for another offense, try to take the stress levels down a notch by keeping a firm, authoritative, but not angry tone. Remember, you're dealing with a sensitive, highly-strung dog: if you get angry or worry him further, the problem will worsen.
Common house training problem #2: Scent marking
In dog training terms 'Scent marking' is where a dog 'marks' his or her territory with urine. Technically this is not actually a house training problem, since it's based on the dog training issues of dominance and territoriality rather than insufficient house training. A dog can be perfectly house trained but still feel the need to mark inside the house.
However, because - since the problem centers around the unwanted presence of urine in the house - it seems logical, in a way, to link this problem with house training. Since this is one of the most widespread problems among dog owners, we as dog training professionals thought it worthwhile to include some practical advice.
Scent marking and lack of house training: how to differentiate between the two
Your dog is most likely scent marking their territory, rather than genuinely relieving himself, if:
- The amount of urine produced is relatively small, and tends to be directed against vertical surfaces such as doors, walls or furniture.
- If your dog is an unneutered male and at least five or six months old. Unneutered dogs are much more territorial than neutered ones. If you have an unneutered dog in the house, you can pretty much expect a certain amount of scent marking as he defines his own areas. It should also be noted that unspayed females also mark, but it is much less common. Spayed and neutered dogs can also exhibit marking behavior, but it's relatively rare but should not be discounted.
- It makes little difference how often he is taken outside for a toilet break
- He frequently targets items that are new to the house such as new possessions, guest clothing/footwear, etc that do not carry some form of his scent
- You live in a multi-dog household and there is conflict between two or more of the dogs. In this case it is a dominance issue between the two and they may both mark.
- There are other, unneutered or unspayed pets in the house
What to do about the problem?
From a dog training perspective the first thing you need to do is spay or neuter your dog(s) as soon as you possibly can. If you can do this early enough, ideally, at six months of age, this often halts marking altogether. If this is not possible or if your dog's been marking for a prolonged period of time, he or she may continue to do so after being spayed or neutered, since a pattern of behavior will have been established.
Ensure you clean soiled areas thoroughly. Use a non-ammonia based cleaner, because it smells just like pee, and stay away from vinegar too, it smells similar to pee as well. Oxi-Clean mixed with warm water is particularly effective on these areas and there are also plenty of commercial cleaners designed specifically to lift pet stains and odors, which you can buy from pet stores and some supermarkets.
Because dogs tend to re-mark the same places, you'll need to redefine the places that you know he's marked to prevent repeat offending.
Many dog training experts will recommend the following ways to do this:
- Feed him next to or on top of the spot
- Play with him there
- Groom him there
- Put his bed over or next to it
- Spend time there yourself: hang out with a book or sit down and work
Finally, one particular aspect of dog training that is often overlooked is if there is rivalry between dogs in the household. In this case you will need to take steps to resolve it. Any conflict is likely to be hierarchical in nature (a 'power struggle'), which means that all you have to do to stop the tension is pay attention to which dog seems to be more dominant than the other one (which one eats first, gets the toys he/she wants, 'stares down' another dog), and reinforce this position to establish the hierarchy.
So how do you do this? From a dog training perspective it is relatively simple. First, feed the dominant dog first. Pet him/her first. Give him/her a toy before anyone else gets one. This makes it clear to all dogs in the house which one really is the dominant dog. When this hierarchy's been recognizably established, territorial and dominant behaviors like scent marking often vanish overnight.
If you like this article, you will find much more useful dog training information on our dog training website Dog Training Success where you will find useful tips, tricks and an amazing guide that will help you train your dog with immediate results. No matter what your dog training problem there is a solution and this fantastic dog training guide will show you how to handle each and every situation in detail. Can you afford not to find our more? Click Here Now
Saturday, December 15, 2007
Adopting A Pet
By Nicholas Rodriguez
Before you go and buy a pet on impulse, you should sit back and think. Think about who wants the pet, who is going to take care of the pet, and vital things that will effect the pet's life. You don't want to get a pet, and then realize that you cannot take care of it. You will then either keep it, and it will be mistreated, or you will feed a great deal of stress to the pet by switching homes, and sending it to a new environment.
Why do you want a pet?
Is it the thing to do? Do you want a puppy in a handbag, or a cockatoo because the television shows have a character who owns one? Because the kids want one? For entertainment? Or, to give an animal a loving home and a place to live for the rest of it's life?
Can you afford the pet?
Pets can be expensive. Like hobbies, the expense is not in the initial purchase, but in the day to day expenses of caring for that pet. Vet bills, food, licenses, training classes, toys, grooming--all these things add up. Will you be able to set aside some money each week to be used for your pet care? Or will your pet just be taken care of and things paid for with last-minute money that you scrape up; giving the pet low quality items and food?
Have you got the time?
Do you work 12 hours a day? Work 6 days a week? Commute 60 miles or more one way making your day a very long one? If you own a dog, do you have the time and energy to walk the dog every day? Do you play with the dog? Have time to train your bird and give it attention and affection? Will you set aside some time to research your pet and learn proper care? Will you take it to the vet when needed? Or will you just put these vital things off until you "find time" - which will never happen?
Problem pets?
Can you handle a cat who continues to have accidents on your waterbed? Fleas? Scratching your beloved leather sofa? Can you afford the increase in insurance if the insurance company discovers that you own what they consider (rightly or wrongly) to be a 'dangerous' dog? Will you learn proper ways to discipline your pet, and not be hurtful? Will you understand some pets have problems and need to be worked with to achieve a normality?
Can you own that pet where you live?
You can't own a horse in most places if you have less than an acre of suitable land. Can you own a dog over 30 pounds weight if you live in an apartment? What will you do with your pet if your neighbors complain about the barking and howling? Is your landlord willing to allow you a small furry, such as a rat or gerbil, if they won't allow cats or dogs? Snakes? Fish?
Do you have a suitable space?
Are you trying to keep a pot-bellied pig in a flat with 250 square feet of living space? A Great Dane on a balcony? A horse in your apartment*? Just because the animal is small doesn't mean it can live in a small space. Again - research comes into play: Will you learn suitable keeping/living conditions for your pet?
Are you mature enough to take care of a pet?
Are you in a stable relationship, or will you be required to move a few months down the road, only to have nowhere for you and your pet to go? Do you have small children who can't handle treating animals with caution? Do you have a lifestyle which is on the move constantly, such as being in the military?
Are you willing to be a responsible pet owner?
A responsible owner will have the funds to pay for pet licenses, will obey community laws requiring dogs to be on leashes, or having their yard fenced. Will you show your animals true affection by planning to take care of their doctor's bills? Can you handle ending your friend's life with dignity when the time comes?
Who will pet-sit for you?
Do you have a responsible adult or mature teen to take care of your animals? Is there a clean, good kennel or cattery? Can you afford a pet-sitter?
Are you ready to spend the rest of your life with this pet?
Yes, it's possible that your cat or dog will probably not outlive you. But what if they do? Do you have plans to take care of them? How about animals such as parrots, or turtle and tortoises, which have very long lifespans? Will you have a will and fund in place just for them in case you go before them?
Animals need love and attention. They can cost a fair amount of money over the pet's lifetime--can you handle this?
These are some questions you should ask yourself before you go and get a pet.
You basically need to research your pet before you get one. Ask yourself these questions, and if you are capable and ready to get a pet of your own, then be sure to have things planned before-hand. Have the supplies ready, etc. Always continue to do research, especially on the internet.
A good way to learn and educate yourself constantly is an internet forum/discussion board. Find one dedicated to the topic of your pet, and learn some information.
Nick Rodriguez; Animal Lover and Owner; Pet & Animal Forum - http://www.pets-galore.net/forum
Before you go and buy a pet on impulse, you should sit back and think. Think about who wants the pet, who is going to take care of the pet, and vital things that will effect the pet's life. You don't want to get a pet, and then realize that you cannot take care of it. You will then either keep it, and it will be mistreated, or you will feed a great deal of stress to the pet by switching homes, and sending it to a new environment.
Why do you want a pet?
Is it the thing to do? Do you want a puppy in a handbag, or a cockatoo because the television shows have a character who owns one? Because the kids want one? For entertainment? Or, to give an animal a loving home and a place to live for the rest of it's life?
Can you afford the pet?
Pets can be expensive. Like hobbies, the expense is not in the initial purchase, but in the day to day expenses of caring for that pet. Vet bills, food, licenses, training classes, toys, grooming--all these things add up. Will you be able to set aside some money each week to be used for your pet care? Or will your pet just be taken care of and things paid for with last-minute money that you scrape up; giving the pet low quality items and food?
Have you got the time?
Do you work 12 hours a day? Work 6 days a week? Commute 60 miles or more one way making your day a very long one? If you own a dog, do you have the time and energy to walk the dog every day? Do you play with the dog? Have time to train your bird and give it attention and affection? Will you set aside some time to research your pet and learn proper care? Will you take it to the vet when needed? Or will you just put these vital things off until you "find time" - which will never happen?
Problem pets?
Can you handle a cat who continues to have accidents on your waterbed? Fleas? Scratching your beloved leather sofa? Can you afford the increase in insurance if the insurance company discovers that you own what they consider (rightly or wrongly) to be a 'dangerous' dog? Will you learn proper ways to discipline your pet, and not be hurtful? Will you understand some pets have problems and need to be worked with to achieve a normality?
Can you own that pet where you live?
You can't own a horse in most places if you have less than an acre of suitable land. Can you own a dog over 30 pounds weight if you live in an apartment? What will you do with your pet if your neighbors complain about the barking and howling? Is your landlord willing to allow you a small furry, such as a rat or gerbil, if they won't allow cats or dogs? Snakes? Fish?
Do you have a suitable space?
Are you trying to keep a pot-bellied pig in a flat with 250 square feet of living space? A Great Dane on a balcony? A horse in your apartment*? Just because the animal is small doesn't mean it can live in a small space. Again - research comes into play: Will you learn suitable keeping/living conditions for your pet?
Are you mature enough to take care of a pet?
Are you in a stable relationship, or will you be required to move a few months down the road, only to have nowhere for you and your pet to go? Do you have small children who can't handle treating animals with caution? Do you have a lifestyle which is on the move constantly, such as being in the military?
Are you willing to be a responsible pet owner?
A responsible owner will have the funds to pay for pet licenses, will obey community laws requiring dogs to be on leashes, or having their yard fenced. Will you show your animals true affection by planning to take care of their doctor's bills? Can you handle ending your friend's life with dignity when the time comes?
Who will pet-sit for you?
Do you have a responsible adult or mature teen to take care of your animals? Is there a clean, good kennel or cattery? Can you afford a pet-sitter?
Are you ready to spend the rest of your life with this pet?
Yes, it's possible that your cat or dog will probably not outlive you. But what if they do? Do you have plans to take care of them? How about animals such as parrots, or turtle and tortoises, which have very long lifespans? Will you have a will and fund in place just for them in case you go before them?
Animals need love and attention. They can cost a fair amount of money over the pet's lifetime--can you handle this?
These are some questions you should ask yourself before you go and get a pet.
You basically need to research your pet before you get one. Ask yourself these questions, and if you are capable and ready to get a pet of your own, then be sure to have things planned before-hand. Have the supplies ready, etc. Always continue to do research, especially on the internet.
A good way to learn and educate yourself constantly is an internet forum/discussion board. Find one dedicated to the topic of your pet, and learn some information.
Nick Rodriguez; Animal Lover and Owner; Pet & Animal Forum - http://www.pets-galore.net/forum
Thursday, December 13, 2007
Pets and Christmas
By Vivian Gilbert Zabel
Some pets become part of the family. They receive gifts and special treats and meals for Christmas or other holidays just as other members of the family do.
We had a keeshond that had to have his own present to unwrap on Christmas morning. If he didn't, he would steal other people's gifts. With his own present, he would sit where everyone could watch and open it. Then he would lie with his gift and watch the rest of the family open theirs.
I've had cats that enjoyed playing with the discarded ribbons and wrappings. They didn't seem to care about the presents under the tree or before unwrapped, but afterwards, the cats had a ball. One problem we discovered when one of the cats got her head caught in the loop-handle of a gift bag: Some cats will hurt themselves trying to get something from around their necks. Therefore we became careful of any loops that the cats might find.
Our family allowed our pets to "share" in the Christmas meal by putting aside a bit of turkey or ham for them. One cat kept trying to find chocolate, though, and we kept taking it away and hiding it: Chocolate is dangerous for animals to eat. Also, allowing animals to over-eat or to eat food richer than they are used to eating will cause them to have tummy aches, the same as with a person.
Christmas plants brighten a home, but some are poisonous to animals. Pointsettias, for example, should never be where a cat or dog could nibble on it.
Cats that enjoy batting dangling items can destroy a Christmas tree, not only making a mess and ruining the day, but also possibly injuring themselves or a child. Cats, and dogs, can be taught not to play with a tree or anything on it. If one can't be trained, then any tree should be placed in a room or position that a cat can't reach it.
Christmas can be, and should be, fun for people and their pets. A bit of preparation and thought can make the holiday a success for all involved.
Vivian Gilbert Zabel became an author on http://www.Writing.Com/ and produced Hidden Lies and Other Stores, Walking the Earth:, The Base Stealers Club, and Case of the Missing Coach, found on Amazon.com. This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pets.
Some pets become part of the family. They receive gifts and special treats and meals for Christmas or other holidays just as other members of the family do.
We had a keeshond that had to have his own present to unwrap on Christmas morning. If he didn't, he would steal other people's gifts. With his own present, he would sit where everyone could watch and open it. Then he would lie with his gift and watch the rest of the family open theirs.
I've had cats that enjoyed playing with the discarded ribbons and wrappings. They didn't seem to care about the presents under the tree or before unwrapped, but afterwards, the cats had a ball. One problem we discovered when one of the cats got her head caught in the loop-handle of a gift bag: Some cats will hurt themselves trying to get something from around their necks. Therefore we became careful of any loops that the cats might find.
Our family allowed our pets to "share" in the Christmas meal by putting aside a bit of turkey or ham for them. One cat kept trying to find chocolate, though, and we kept taking it away and hiding it: Chocolate is dangerous for animals to eat. Also, allowing animals to over-eat or to eat food richer than they are used to eating will cause them to have tummy aches, the same as with a person.
Christmas plants brighten a home, but some are poisonous to animals. Pointsettias, for example, should never be where a cat or dog could nibble on it.
Cats that enjoy batting dangling items can destroy a Christmas tree, not only making a mess and ruining the day, but also possibly injuring themselves or a child. Cats, and dogs, can be taught not to play with a tree or anything on it. If one can't be trained, then any tree should be placed in a room or position that a cat can't reach it.
Christmas can be, and should be, fun for people and their pets. A bit of preparation and thought can make the holiday a success for all involved.
Vivian Gilbert Zabel became an author on http://www.Writing.Com/ and produced Hidden Lies and Other Stores, Walking the Earth:, The Base Stealers Club, and Case of the Missing Coach, found on Amazon.com. This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pets.
Tuesday, December 11, 2007
Pet Bunny for Christmas? How To Tell if Your Child and a Rabbit are a Good Match!
By Bill Vs
To start with, consider the personality and age of your child. Children that are generally known to be gentle, kind and calm would do better with a rabbit as a pet than those that tend to be very loud and aggressive. If you have to constantly remind your child to follow your rules, a rabbit might not be a good match. Younger children below the age of six or seven may not be able to properly interact in a manner safe for them or safe for the bunny.
Next, consider your lifestyle. It is NEVER a good idea to add a rabbit to your family so your child or children can learn responsibility, or even to expect that your child will be the major caretaker of the bunny. As the responsible adult, you must assume that you are getting a new pet that will require your commitment. Too many times, a family ends up wanting to give up on the new pet rabbit because the expectations of responsibility were not properly considered ahead of time.
If you feel that a rabbit is a good match for your child so far, there are a few more important considerations before heading out to pick your bunny. Just like any other pet, there is a cost to having a pet rabbit. In addition to any cost for the rabbit's purchase or adoption, you need a suitable home for your pet. Many styles of rabbit hutches and cages are available. The rule of thumb is always "buy the largest rabbit home that fits your space and budget". In addition to your rabbit's home, there are costs for a regular supply of food, hay and litter, water bottle and feeder, rabbit toys (although some can be homemade), and veterinary care. If your bunny was not spayed or neutered prior to becoming your pet, consider that as well. There are also occasional costs, such as for a litter pan, chew toys and "in cage" shelters such as small igloos or houses. Hopefully, you'll want to "spoil" your bunny with some new toys for the holidays as well. A Pet PlayPen made for rabbits and small animals help reduce your stress, but are a cost as well. Thankfully, most items made for rabbits are not very expensive, and hutches and cages come in many stylish options with functional benefits for both bunny and pet parent!
Other things to consider include the area for your rabbit. We encourage everyone that considers getting a rabbit for a pet, to be considered as an "indoor" pet, not just put a rabbit in a hutch outside. Rabbits are social animals that do better when they are around their family members. Find an area for the rabbit home away from loud noise areas, and preferably in an area that allows the bunny to not be stressed by large amounts of people, noise, other pets, etc. Consider the other members of your home. If anyone suffers from allergies, could a new rabbit make the family member suffer? Lastly, you home will probably require at least some "rabbit proofing".
Finally, consider the rabbit. Rabbits naturally live at ground level, and many do not like to be held or cuddled. Medium to larger breed rabbits, especially adult ones that have been spayed or neutered, often make the best pets for children. Small breeds and young bunnies tend to be more excitable and sometimes aggressive, and may be more likely to chew and nip. It is often easier to judge the personality of an adult rabbit.
If you feel that you are willing to make the commitments necessary to be a responsible pet rabbit owner, and your child will benefit from the new relationship with a bunny, then the next step is finding your pet. Consider the benefits of adopting an adult bunny from a shelter, before deciding to purchase one from a pet store. By taking the time to understand your new rabbit, and spending time helping your child learn how to properly interact with a bunny, you can enjoy a lasting relationship that can be very rewarding for all involved. Your child can learn responsibility, and grow up to be a more nurturing and caring adult. The choice to add a pet rabbit to your family and to assist your child in the proper care and interaction with the bunny will help provide a lasting and loving experience for your child for years to come!
Bill is the owner of a great Ebay Store, Rabbit Hutch USA. Rabbit Hutch USA features great FREE Info on on Rabbits, as well as a nice assortment of rabbit hutches and cages. The prices are extremely reasonable, shipping charges are low and customer satisfaction is our number one priority. As we say at our store, "Grab a Carrot and Hop On In!" http://www.rabbithutchusa.com
rabbithutchusa@aol.com
To start with, consider the personality and age of your child. Children that are generally known to be gentle, kind and calm would do better with a rabbit as a pet than those that tend to be very loud and aggressive. If you have to constantly remind your child to follow your rules, a rabbit might not be a good match. Younger children below the age of six or seven may not be able to properly interact in a manner safe for them or safe for the bunny.
Next, consider your lifestyle. It is NEVER a good idea to add a rabbit to your family so your child or children can learn responsibility, or even to expect that your child will be the major caretaker of the bunny. As the responsible adult, you must assume that you are getting a new pet that will require your commitment. Too many times, a family ends up wanting to give up on the new pet rabbit because the expectations of responsibility were not properly considered ahead of time.
If you feel that a rabbit is a good match for your child so far, there are a few more important considerations before heading out to pick your bunny. Just like any other pet, there is a cost to having a pet rabbit. In addition to any cost for the rabbit's purchase or adoption, you need a suitable home for your pet. Many styles of rabbit hutches and cages are available. The rule of thumb is always "buy the largest rabbit home that fits your space and budget". In addition to your rabbit's home, there are costs for a regular supply of food, hay and litter, water bottle and feeder, rabbit toys (although some can be homemade), and veterinary care. If your bunny was not spayed or neutered prior to becoming your pet, consider that as well. There are also occasional costs, such as for a litter pan, chew toys and "in cage" shelters such as small igloos or houses. Hopefully, you'll want to "spoil" your bunny with some new toys for the holidays as well. A Pet PlayPen made for rabbits and small animals help reduce your stress, but are a cost as well. Thankfully, most items made for rabbits are not very expensive, and hutches and cages come in many stylish options with functional benefits for both bunny and pet parent!
Other things to consider include the area for your rabbit. We encourage everyone that considers getting a rabbit for a pet, to be considered as an "indoor" pet, not just put a rabbit in a hutch outside. Rabbits are social animals that do better when they are around their family members. Find an area for the rabbit home away from loud noise areas, and preferably in an area that allows the bunny to not be stressed by large amounts of people, noise, other pets, etc. Consider the other members of your home. If anyone suffers from allergies, could a new rabbit make the family member suffer? Lastly, you home will probably require at least some "rabbit proofing".
Finally, consider the rabbit. Rabbits naturally live at ground level, and many do not like to be held or cuddled. Medium to larger breed rabbits, especially adult ones that have been spayed or neutered, often make the best pets for children. Small breeds and young bunnies tend to be more excitable and sometimes aggressive, and may be more likely to chew and nip. It is often easier to judge the personality of an adult rabbit.
If you feel that you are willing to make the commitments necessary to be a responsible pet rabbit owner, and your child will benefit from the new relationship with a bunny, then the next step is finding your pet. Consider the benefits of adopting an adult bunny from a shelter, before deciding to purchase one from a pet store. By taking the time to understand your new rabbit, and spending time helping your child learn how to properly interact with a bunny, you can enjoy a lasting relationship that can be very rewarding for all involved. Your child can learn responsibility, and grow up to be a more nurturing and caring adult. The choice to add a pet rabbit to your family and to assist your child in the proper care and interaction with the bunny will help provide a lasting and loving experience for your child for years to come!
Bill is the owner of a great Ebay Store, Rabbit Hutch USA. Rabbit Hutch USA features great FREE Info on on Rabbits, as well as a nice assortment of rabbit hutches and cages. The prices are extremely reasonable, shipping charges are low and customer satisfaction is our number one priority. As we say at our store, "Grab a Carrot and Hop On In!" http://www.rabbithutchusa.com
rabbithutchusa@aol.com
Sunday, December 9, 2007
Pets for Christmas Gifts? Let's Talk
By Deborah Sheehy
There are heart-warming stories to heart breaking tales of people and pets. As I contemplated what I would say about the subject of Christmas and pets, I had mixed emotions about this whole great big mess (we as people) have created with animals. Bottom line is that there are way too many human beings (and I use that word lightly), who treat animals as though they are toys... an amusement for the moment... something disposable. So my goal is to attempt to get you to think about the risks, dangers, responsibilities and commitment in owning animals.
Christmas is coming and I can hear little puppies being put in boxes to surprise little Bobbie and Sally on Christmas morning only to find the dog dehydrated, beaten up a bit and tossed out into the back yard just days or even hours after it's arrival. You see, puppies are cute but do you understand the damage they can produce in a home? Are you prepared for all the trials that a new puppy can create? If not, I'm begging you NOT to bring home any animals for Christmas presents! As a matter of fact, many rescue missions won't allow adoptions during this time of year because most purchases of animals during Christmas result in returns.
Pet stores will tell you whatever you want to hear to get you to buy, buy, buy. But if you only knew the background on how the majority of those animals are bred and cared for before reaching your local pet shops, you'd drop down and faint. But we really don't want to hear it do we? We'd rather 'think' that all is well in the pet business and that nothing is rotting behind the scenes. In some cases you'd be right. But in the majority, you'll find breeding mills with cages stacked high, with no lights, no love and no medical attention. You'll find these mills behind tall privacy fences so no one can see, and located far away from populated areas so no one can hear. Then there's transportation to your local pet shop... They're crammed into large, hot, sometimes unventilated containers and carted around to meet the needs of consumers. Don't think for a moment that the animal you've bought has been treated with tender loving care from the moment it was born. When you buy from pet stores, you become part of the problem.
I encourage you to avoid pets for Christmas presents. Even if you can find an agency willing to allow adoptions, do yourself a favor and don't baulk at the requirements of the adoption agency. Be thankful they care enough for their pets that they want to make sure you understand all the implications of bringing an animal into your home. Pet stores don't care if you know what you're getting in to. They simply look at their bottom line, where as rescue missions first and only priority is the welfare of the animals. They've seen the abuse and neglect these animals have had to endure and now they are protecting them against future stress. Just please contemplate the idea of giving animals for presents... and be sure you're up for the commitment.
Deborah Sheehy is author and publisher of an online magazine for the Gainesville, Florida area and can be fount at http://www.welcomehomemyflorida.com
There are heart-warming stories to heart breaking tales of people and pets. As I contemplated what I would say about the subject of Christmas and pets, I had mixed emotions about this whole great big mess (we as people) have created with animals. Bottom line is that there are way too many human beings (and I use that word lightly), who treat animals as though they are toys... an amusement for the moment... something disposable. So my goal is to attempt to get you to think about the risks, dangers, responsibilities and commitment in owning animals.
Christmas is coming and I can hear little puppies being put in boxes to surprise little Bobbie and Sally on Christmas morning only to find the dog dehydrated, beaten up a bit and tossed out into the back yard just days or even hours after it's arrival. You see, puppies are cute but do you understand the damage they can produce in a home? Are you prepared for all the trials that a new puppy can create? If not, I'm begging you NOT to bring home any animals for Christmas presents! As a matter of fact, many rescue missions won't allow adoptions during this time of year because most purchases of animals during Christmas result in returns.
Pet stores will tell you whatever you want to hear to get you to buy, buy, buy. But if you only knew the background on how the majority of those animals are bred and cared for before reaching your local pet shops, you'd drop down and faint. But we really don't want to hear it do we? We'd rather 'think' that all is well in the pet business and that nothing is rotting behind the scenes. In some cases you'd be right. But in the majority, you'll find breeding mills with cages stacked high, with no lights, no love and no medical attention. You'll find these mills behind tall privacy fences so no one can see, and located far away from populated areas so no one can hear. Then there's transportation to your local pet shop... They're crammed into large, hot, sometimes unventilated containers and carted around to meet the needs of consumers. Don't think for a moment that the animal you've bought has been treated with tender loving care from the moment it was born. When you buy from pet stores, you become part of the problem.
I encourage you to avoid pets for Christmas presents. Even if you can find an agency willing to allow adoptions, do yourself a favor and don't baulk at the requirements of the adoption agency. Be thankful they care enough for their pets that they want to make sure you understand all the implications of bringing an animal into your home. Pet stores don't care if you know what you're getting in to. They simply look at their bottom line, where as rescue missions first and only priority is the welfare of the animals. They've seen the abuse and neglect these animals have had to endure and now they are protecting them against future stress. Just please contemplate the idea of giving animals for presents... and be sure you're up for the commitment.
Deborah Sheehy is author and publisher of an online magazine for the Gainesville, Florida area and can be fount at http://www.welcomehomemyflorida.com
Friday, December 7, 2007
Pet Travel - Tips For Taking Your Pet On A Plane
By Julee Roth
As more and more people fly, more and more pets fly as well. Just as some people get anxious or nervous flying, pets do too. With all the additional security regulations enforced on airlines these days, we are frequently asked for tips on flying with pets.
If you are having a pet, especially a new puppy or kitten, shipped from a breeder to you, we suggest you have the shipper use a SnugglePuppie or SnuggleKittie in the crate. A SnugglePuppie/SnuggleKittie is a cozy stuffed animal for your pet. It comes with a heart beat and heater inside and helps to ease crying, loneliness and separation anxiety. Some freight companies do not like having anything, even a towel, in the crate so you may want to find other shippers who allow our products to ease the anxiety of unaccompanied travel.
Other Important Tips:
1. Have extra copies of vaccination records with you - maybe put one copy in one bag and one in your pet's carrier.
2. Make sure your pet is comfortable in their crate or carry bag - they must be able to get up and turn around. I put a pee pad, "just-in-case", on the bottom of my carrier then my pet's favorite towel (with my smell on it) on top. And even with a SnuggleKittie in the bag, there is more than enough room.
3. Check your pet's collar before travelling. Be sure your information, including temporary accommodation, is clearly written. If your pet escapes, then you can be contacted.
4. Water is important before the flight. You may want to keep food to a minimum up to 6 hours before travel.
5. Regarding escapes, you must take your pet out of the carrier while you both go through security. This can be one of the most stressful of moments because your pet is "out-of-the-bag" and very capable of running from you. Consider that any pet jewelry may make the detector go off. Plan ahead and put your pet in a nylon collar with plastic ID tags. Be sure to ask that your pet carrier go through the X-ray before you so you can quickly put your pet back in its carrier.
Lastly, consult your veterinarian with any questions or concerns or even vaccination requirements for travel. Giving a tranquilizer before travelling is not recommended for pets, that's why a SnugglePuppie or SnuggleKittie is a safer, better, natural alternative. Happy Tails and Bon Voyage!
Julee Roth has been a life-long animal lover and pet industry veteran with over 12 years experience helping people and their pets. Hundreds of thousands of puppies, kittens, cats and dogs have benefited from her advice and well chosen pet products. To ask her for more pet advice, visit her web site, http://www.ChoicePetProducts.com
As more and more people fly, more and more pets fly as well. Just as some people get anxious or nervous flying, pets do too. With all the additional security regulations enforced on airlines these days, we are frequently asked for tips on flying with pets.
If you are having a pet, especially a new puppy or kitten, shipped from a breeder to you, we suggest you have the shipper use a SnugglePuppie or SnuggleKittie in the crate. A SnugglePuppie/SnuggleKittie is a cozy stuffed animal for your pet. It comes with a heart beat and heater inside and helps to ease crying, loneliness and separation anxiety. Some freight companies do not like having anything, even a towel, in the crate so you may want to find other shippers who allow our products to ease the anxiety of unaccompanied travel.
Other Important Tips:
1. Have extra copies of vaccination records with you - maybe put one copy in one bag and one in your pet's carrier.
2. Make sure your pet is comfortable in their crate or carry bag - they must be able to get up and turn around. I put a pee pad, "just-in-case", on the bottom of my carrier then my pet's favorite towel (with my smell on it) on top. And even with a SnuggleKittie in the bag, there is more than enough room.
3. Check your pet's collar before travelling. Be sure your information, including temporary accommodation, is clearly written. If your pet escapes, then you can be contacted.
4. Water is important before the flight. You may want to keep food to a minimum up to 6 hours before travel.
5. Regarding escapes, you must take your pet out of the carrier while you both go through security. This can be one of the most stressful of moments because your pet is "out-of-the-bag" and very capable of running from you. Consider that any pet jewelry may make the detector go off. Plan ahead and put your pet in a nylon collar with plastic ID tags. Be sure to ask that your pet carrier go through the X-ray before you so you can quickly put your pet back in its carrier.
Lastly, consult your veterinarian with any questions or concerns or even vaccination requirements for travel. Giving a tranquilizer before travelling is not recommended for pets, that's why a SnugglePuppie or SnuggleKittie is a safer, better, natural alternative. Happy Tails and Bon Voyage!
Julee Roth has been a life-long animal lover and pet industry veteran with over 12 years experience helping people and their pets. Hundreds of thousands of puppies, kittens, cats and dogs have benefited from her advice and well chosen pet products. To ask her for more pet advice, visit her web site, http://www.ChoicePetProducts.com
Wednesday, December 5, 2007
Choosing Your Pet
By Chyna Dolores
Life is full of joy and wonder. One of the greatest joys in life would have to be having your own pet. Pets are a wonderful thing they can supply company when alone and joy with some of their antics... but how do you go about choosing the right pet for you? The choices are endless. It is much more than choosing a dog, cat, fish, bird or reptile... there are so many breeds of each to choose from.
For many people a pet is as important as any other family member. Owning a pet can be a rewarding experience and bring hours of enjoyment for the whole family. The decision to own a pet is a serious on that needs to be properly considered. It is important to remember that owning a pet is a full time responsibility; it takes time, money and a life-long commitment.
Most animals rely on their owners to meet their needs and this responsibility should not be taken lightly. There are many things to consider when choosing a pet. It's not just a matter of picking out the "perfect" animal. Pets are very much like children, they need love, attention and care throughout their lifetime. Some questions you need to ask yourself are:
* Can you afford a pet? It's not just a matter of buying food for your pet. You need to consider things like vaccination, micro-chipping, de-sexing, vet bills, grooming, bedding and proper housing. The costs vary between different types of pets.
* Do you have time to care for your pet? Your pet does not need you solely to supply his meals. Exercise, grooming, play and obedience are important aspects to consider. Not all pets require the same amount (or type) of attention.
* Do you know how to care for your pet? Different animals have different requirements and needs. If you have only had experience with dogs, than caring for a cat or fish are going to be a completely new experience for you. There are several organisations that can advise you on the specific needs of your new pet, such as the RSPCA, animal shelters and pet shops.
* Do you have the required space for your pet? If you live in a small apartment than a large dog is probably not the ideal pet for you, if you really want a dog perhaps a smaller breed (such as a pug) is the better choice.
* Will the pet fit into your lifestyle and priorities? A pet will always depend on you and must therefore be accommodated into your lifestyle. Working long hours, taking frequent trips away and a hectic social life are all factors needed to be considered before selecting and purchasing your pet.
Once you are sure that you can provide your pet with a loving home, it is time to go out and choose your pet... and enjoy the rewarding experiences your pet will provide.
This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pets.
Life is full of joy and wonder. One of the greatest joys in life would have to be having your own pet. Pets are a wonderful thing they can supply company when alone and joy with some of their antics... but how do you go about choosing the right pet for you? The choices are endless. It is much more than choosing a dog, cat, fish, bird or reptile... there are so many breeds of each to choose from.
For many people a pet is as important as any other family member. Owning a pet can be a rewarding experience and bring hours of enjoyment for the whole family. The decision to own a pet is a serious on that needs to be properly considered. It is important to remember that owning a pet is a full time responsibility; it takes time, money and a life-long commitment.
Most animals rely on their owners to meet their needs and this responsibility should not be taken lightly. There are many things to consider when choosing a pet. It's not just a matter of picking out the "perfect" animal. Pets are very much like children, they need love, attention and care throughout their lifetime. Some questions you need to ask yourself are:
* Can you afford a pet? It's not just a matter of buying food for your pet. You need to consider things like vaccination, micro-chipping, de-sexing, vet bills, grooming, bedding and proper housing. The costs vary between different types of pets.
* Do you have time to care for your pet? Your pet does not need you solely to supply his meals. Exercise, grooming, play and obedience are important aspects to consider. Not all pets require the same amount (or type) of attention.
* Do you know how to care for your pet? Different animals have different requirements and needs. If you have only had experience with dogs, than caring for a cat or fish are going to be a completely new experience for you. There are several organisations that can advise you on the specific needs of your new pet, such as the RSPCA, animal shelters and pet shops.
* Do you have the required space for your pet? If you live in a small apartment than a large dog is probably not the ideal pet for you, if you really want a dog perhaps a smaller breed (such as a pug) is the better choice.
* Will the pet fit into your lifestyle and priorities? A pet will always depend on you and must therefore be accommodated into your lifestyle. Working long hours, taking frequent trips away and a hectic social life are all factors needed to be considered before selecting and purchasing your pet.
Once you are sure that you can provide your pet with a loving home, it is time to go out and choose your pet... and enjoy the rewarding experiences your pet will provide.
This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pets.
Monday, December 3, 2007
Are Pet Doors For Sliding Glass Door A Good Choice For Your Home?
By Nat Williams
If you have a pet, then you probably want to let your pet to enter and exit as they desire. It can be irritating to constantly have to worry about letting your pet in and out, therefore a pet door can be a huge convenience. One type of pet door that you may want to get for your pet are pet doors for sliding glass doors. These doors can be installed beside your sliding glass door and you'll still be able to use the sliding glass door as usual. Instead of installing a pet door in the glass door, they come with a special panel that fits perfectly into the track of your sliding glass door.
How Much Does It Cost?
Pet doors for sliding glass doors are not very expensive. Most of the will only cost you between $30 and $80. However, the prices can vary, depending on where you get the door. If you want to get the best deal on your pet door, then try a few places and compare their prices before you make your decision on where to buy. Remember, you want to get a quality door, and sometimes this will cost you slightly more money.
Benefits
Firstly, you may find it more convenient to have a way for your pet to move in and out of your house. Secondly, you may toilet train your pet outside of the house so that you do not have to deal with the terrible smell and mess they make inside the house. Lastly, pet doors for sliding glass doors are comparatively cheaper than buying a pet door for walls and wooden doors.
Disadvantages
One possible drawback is the security of glass doors. Sliding glass doors are not very secure as it is, and adding a pet door can worsen the problem. When you purchase a pet door, make sure that it has locks on it. Pet doors can let in the heat or the cold, therefore if you live in an area that has very hot or cold temperatures, consider buying double glazed glass for some additional insulation.
Natalie Williams is the author of PetDoors101.com. Visit her site to get more free tips on selecting the right pet door for your pet.
If you have a pet, then you probably want to let your pet to enter and exit as they desire. It can be irritating to constantly have to worry about letting your pet in and out, therefore a pet door can be a huge convenience. One type of pet door that you may want to get for your pet are pet doors for sliding glass doors. These doors can be installed beside your sliding glass door and you'll still be able to use the sliding glass door as usual. Instead of installing a pet door in the glass door, they come with a special panel that fits perfectly into the track of your sliding glass door.
How Much Does It Cost?
Pet doors for sliding glass doors are not very expensive. Most of the will only cost you between $30 and $80. However, the prices can vary, depending on where you get the door. If you want to get the best deal on your pet door, then try a few places and compare their prices before you make your decision on where to buy. Remember, you want to get a quality door, and sometimes this will cost you slightly more money.
Benefits
Firstly, you may find it more convenient to have a way for your pet to move in and out of your house. Secondly, you may toilet train your pet outside of the house so that you do not have to deal with the terrible smell and mess they make inside the house. Lastly, pet doors for sliding glass doors are comparatively cheaper than buying a pet door for walls and wooden doors.
Disadvantages
One possible drawback is the security of glass doors. Sliding glass doors are not very secure as it is, and adding a pet door can worsen the problem. When you purchase a pet door, make sure that it has locks on it. Pet doors can let in the heat or the cold, therefore if you live in an area that has very hot or cold temperatures, consider buying double glazed glass for some additional insulation.
Natalie Williams is the author of PetDoors101.com. Visit her site to get more free tips on selecting the right pet door for your pet.
Saturday, December 1, 2007
Flower Remedies For Animals - How To Administer Flower Essences To Animals
By Lesley Edmondson
Emotional and psychological problems are not just suffered by humans, but animals too. Animals can, and do, suffer the same range of emotional problems that we do. Below is a list of a few of the negative conditions in animals which can be treated by flower essences:
* A dominating animal
* Nervousness
* Abuse, neglect, or abandonment
* Pre- and post-surgical treatment
* Grief (loss of a human or companion animal)
* Fear of loud or sudden noises, visiting the vet, people, etc
* Hyperactivity
* Aggressiveness
* Jealousy
* Possessiveness
* Inappropriate, or non-use of litter box
* Changes in environment
* Excessive Grooming
Pets, working animals and wild animals, all animals, respond remarkably well to Flower Essences. Flower Essences are a potent, non-aromatic, vibrational remedy which can be given for internal digestion or external application, to create profound healing, balance and change. Emotional and mental stress in animals can be alleviated with the correct selection of Flower Essences. Essences will restore positive balance, well being and health.
and can also be used to achieve deeper states of bonding and communication with an animal, as well as for the more traditional difficulties such as fear, shock, depression, jealousy, relocation, bullying, anxiety, trauma, abuse etc.
The dosage for animals is just 4 drops of flower essences at least four times a day. These can be added to an animal's drink, food, treat (such as sugar lump for a horse, or other absorbent treat such as a biscuit); alternatively drip around the animals mouth area, where it will automatically lick the remedies; add to pulse points so that they may be absorbed into the body; or drip onto your finger and gently apply to gums, tongue, lips. You can also add the remedies to a spray bottle and subsequently 'mist around' the animals head, spray a room, car, carrier, horsebox, or other problem areas. It is wise not to administer drops directly into the animals mouth with the glass dropper as there is the possibility the animal may bite on it and cause an injury. If using the remedies to bring calm after an injury or operation, the essences can be added to the wounded area so that they may be absorbed into the body, or if the animal licks the area, which is usual, then they will be digested.
Flower Essences should never be given as a substitute for veterinary care. Lethargy, hyperactivity, litter box training, and other conditions, may be associated with physical problems and this obviously should always be checked out first. If a physical condition is established then you will find that flower essences used in conjunction with veterinary treatment can hasten the healing process.
You are welcome to reprint these articles on your website and in your e-newsletters free of charge, provided:
* you don't change the article in any way
* you include the byline (including a link to our website)
* in doing so you agree to indemnify Pure Harmony and its directors, officers, employees and agents from and against all losses, claims, damages and liabilities which arise out of their use
Article written by Lesley S Edmodson SNHS Higher International Dip. Aromatherapy, Higher Dip Reflexology and Flower Remedies, Celtic Reiki Master, who is an experienced and practising holistic therapist in the UK.
Lesley manages her own company http://pureharmony.net/
which specialises in Organic Remedies; focusing on Flower Remedies and Vibrational Essences
Emotional and psychological problems are not just suffered by humans, but animals too. Animals can, and do, suffer the same range of emotional problems that we do. Below is a list of a few of the negative conditions in animals which can be treated by flower essences:
* A dominating animal
* Nervousness
* Abuse, neglect, or abandonment
* Pre- and post-surgical treatment
* Grief (loss of a human or companion animal)
* Fear of loud or sudden noises, visiting the vet, people, etc
* Hyperactivity
* Aggressiveness
* Jealousy
* Possessiveness
* Inappropriate, or non-use of litter box
* Changes in environment
* Excessive Grooming
Pets, working animals and wild animals, all animals, respond remarkably well to Flower Essences. Flower Essences are a potent, non-aromatic, vibrational remedy which can be given for internal digestion or external application, to create profound healing, balance and change. Emotional and mental stress in animals can be alleviated with the correct selection of Flower Essences. Essences will restore positive balance, well being and health.
and can also be used to achieve deeper states of bonding and communication with an animal, as well as for the more traditional difficulties such as fear, shock, depression, jealousy, relocation, bullying, anxiety, trauma, abuse etc.
The dosage for animals is just 4 drops of flower essences at least four times a day. These can be added to an animal's drink, food, treat (such as sugar lump for a horse, or other absorbent treat such as a biscuit); alternatively drip around the animals mouth area, where it will automatically lick the remedies; add to pulse points so that they may be absorbed into the body; or drip onto your finger and gently apply to gums, tongue, lips. You can also add the remedies to a spray bottle and subsequently 'mist around' the animals head, spray a room, car, carrier, horsebox, or other problem areas. It is wise not to administer drops directly into the animals mouth with the glass dropper as there is the possibility the animal may bite on it and cause an injury. If using the remedies to bring calm after an injury or operation, the essences can be added to the wounded area so that they may be absorbed into the body, or if the animal licks the area, which is usual, then they will be digested.
Flower Essences should never be given as a substitute for veterinary care. Lethargy, hyperactivity, litter box training, and other conditions, may be associated with physical problems and this obviously should always be checked out first. If a physical condition is established then you will find that flower essences used in conjunction with veterinary treatment can hasten the healing process.
You are welcome to reprint these articles on your website and in your e-newsletters free of charge, provided:
* you don't change the article in any way
* you include the byline (including a link to our website)
* in doing so you agree to indemnify Pure Harmony and its directors, officers, employees and agents from and against all losses, claims, damages and liabilities which arise out of their use
Article written by Lesley S Edmodson SNHS Higher International Dip. Aromatherapy, Higher Dip Reflexology and Flower Remedies, Celtic Reiki Master, who is an experienced and practising holistic therapist in the UK.
Lesley manages her own company http://pureharmony.net/
which specialises in Organic Remedies; focusing on Flower Remedies and Vibrational Essences
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